snozzle

lol.. ive installed them into a friends r34 and it makes a lot of difference, quite a limpy idle too beleive it or not, who told u they wouldnt? make sure you shim the valve clearances correctly to 0.45mm thou as per tomei's instructions

also, i noticed u sold ur stock cams, wat cams are going into it?

they r very straight forward to install, before you install the gasket onto the block, trial fit all the studs into the block and make sure they bottom out at the same height and make sure the threads are clean, once your happy with that, install gasket and the head, lube up the studs but make sure there is no lube on the bottom of the stud or else it will stop it from bottoming out inside the block, only hand tighten down the studs as per the spec sheet, they will fully seat once you torque it, dont forget to lube both sides of the washers too i installed some into an sr last week, says 70 ft pounds in instructions so i did 35 first, then went to 70.. backed off 45 degrees on all of them after an hour then torqued them all to 75 simply because i think the metal head gaskets should be torqued down a tad more than oem gaskets each to their own though

arp head studs will give you greater clamping force of the head onto the block, decreasing the chance to blow a headgasket at high boost if installed correctly you can get them for pretty cheap on ebay what head gasket will you be running ? if your running a metal, you should definitely get them, if your running an oem hg, which i doubt, then dont bother with arp head studs you should also consider an arp main stud kit for the bottom end, the oem ones stretch and arent a good idea to be re-used, especially for high power applications

well, it turns out that i can get these injectors for 100 bucks each inc gst from a supplier of mine which is not all that far from wat i paid for them. FML lol ill put the highest flowing in order to the rear of the engine and be happy with it thanks to everyone for your input

wow that is really cheap, i charge around 400 + flywheel machining and rear main seal + oil

forged bottom ends are usually noisy on a cold start up as compared to stock bottom ends, that may give u a clue, if not, ive herd its possible to put a camera into ur combustion chamber

yeah i agree with most people here, logically thinking, what you have done will make no difference at all the exhaust side of things is a different story, keeping the heat inside the exhaust system will make it flow quicker away from the engine which is wat a turbo engine wants your better off investing money into a CAI, u will find that starting off with colder air (more compressed) is a lot easier to achieve than cooling hot air down after it has already gone through an intercooler and is going through a standard intake manifold anyway nice effort though, at least your giving it a go!

well as far as i know, the pulsar boys over east have been using par gearsets in there sr20det powered sss pulsars etc and have had no problems rwd, dont know anyone whos running one but they r a tad expensive comparing to genuine OS giken

it all depends on how much cash you got really these days, theres alot of modified skylines out there and u may find that a nicely modified clean r33 gts-t will give you far more enjoyment than a stock r34 gt-t after you know how much u want to spend, u have to ask yourself, what you want in a car, will it be your daily driver? etc etc

how much are the npc twin plates??

Sorry Nic A31 but you are giving incorrect advice. It is against the law for anyone, but the owner of the vehicle (who ever's name is on the vic roads rego papers), to drive a car in a state other than where it is Registered. Therefore, there is no point in leaving the plates on the car. As it has been said already, the dude from perth needs to buy a temp move permit for the car before he goes to the depot so that he can drive it home, or to a workshop or where ever so he can get it prepared for the pits. Ive brought an r33 gtr over from Adelaide not too long ago so i know that this is the way it has to be done.

manual conversion time

awesome performance!!! best night

your gonna be there alone man..

done a flow test on the injectors?

wat condition are they in? come with a plug? 170 delivered to perth? 6053

sounds good mate, will keep in touch! i dont mind running braided lines, i can get them made up for cheap over here

oh ok, so you make your own rear housings? I know what the .82 means, i just didnt know if it was custom made or off a vl turbo or sumthing i will keep in touch in regard to the ball bearing gt3076r with .82 rear bolt on housing (the front is the stock rb25 style housing too right?) would u be able to do it for 1850 with stronger actuator fitted and delivered to perth ? so just to confirm, its a straight bolt on, slighly shorter cartridge and needs lines to suit a garret gt30 core but everything else should bolt straight up fine?

1850 isnt a bad price, can you email me any dyno sheets with this turbo fitted to an rb25? what boost levels is it capable of holding till redline ? [email protected] for the record, the turbo was fitted with an uprated 12.5psi actuator and a profec b was being used what is this .82 rear housing? where is it made? how much power can this rear housing expect to make on std cams ?

every dyno graph i see here has the same boost drop problem as our highflow that we are running on a mates car. Comes up to 18psi at around 3800rpm, slowly dies off to 15psi as u approach redline, no matter what you do, mind u, all new gaskets, no gasket leaks! haha the turbo was a gt3076r core, stock rb25 housings machined on, power delivery is very impressive, excellent for street, linear torque curve helps keep traction also its just a shame the stock manifold and housings cant hold the boost till redline above 1 bar ... what do u charge to build a turbo to this specification?

they look exactly like these http://www.sxd.com.au/Sxd/Siemens60lb_injectors.html thanks for the ID mate, helps alot

a tad over 2bar, maybe 2.2 bar ? they look exactly like this http://www.sxd.com.au/Sxd/Siemens60lb_injectors.html anyone have good or bad experiences with these?

now that i think about it, i should have swapped the plugs around on the first two injectors to see if injector number 2 still flowed more than the others to elimate the chance of hardware error

Hi guys, I have bought some s/h 600cc top feed injectors and flow tested them at my workshop and got the results below (all i know is, they are black, says 'siemens' on the side and previous owner THINKS they are sards.. if anyone has a better guess, let me know lol) now, im new to the injector flow testing show so i would like some educated input, as to wether these results are ok, or if these will need further attention before installation (ie, ultrasonic clean etc) to me, these results seem ok except for 1 injector that seems to be spraying about 5% more than all the rest, should i be worried? thanks