snozzle

finnished the game a few months ago, 47 hours, didnt bother playing after i beat the final boss, game pissed me off alot, too linear ff8 and ff9 had way better gameplay the graphics in this game did save it however, gameplay 5/10, 7/10 overall, graphics 10/10 though!

awesome game been playing for a while now - eats up most of my spare time when i get home, used to play dota too username = snozzle who would have guessed?

haha first time ive seen this thead, first pic of welded turbo made my night, thank you very much sir.

r34 gt-t wheels are 17" im pretty sure, r33 stockies are 16" no go, need new tyres to suit the new wheels unless your new wheels are also 16"

i have a hks fan controller, comes with loom etc, it gives in-car temp reading etc, never used, u just need to download the user manual and ur good to go exactly like this http://www.frsport.com/HKS-Universal-Elect...ller_p_875.html 120 bucks delivered anywhere in aus u may be

Well my sources are wrong then! haha thanks for the info guys. Must be my pads then? Well i guess my only advice remains to be, choose good pads hehe

sorry i forgot to mention my car is an N/A chassis from factory, has been converted to a det motor and driveline. i also upgraded the brakes to r32 gtr brakes, stock rotors (296mm) and lucas pads and yes, ive found them to perform better than 33gtst calipers, probably because of the larger pistons? also id just like to say, dont bother rebuilding the calipers if they arent leaking or siezed, it will not yeild any performance gains.

not sure of the exact implication of a leaking throttle body but the easiest way to check is to take the piping off that attaches to the throttle body, possibly even take the throttle body off the plenum and check, also there is an adjustment screw that stops the throttle body from fully closing, that should be wound back all the way so the throttle body is allowed to fully close. if this doesnt fix it, you have a vacum leak sumwhere or a vac line in the wrong place, these problems are one of the most time consuming to fix lol

if found the 32gtr brakes perform alot better, have installed a few r33 gtst brakes on some friends cars, none brake as well as my car and my car is heavier than most, imo pay a little bit more and get the 32 gtr brakes, im also using lucas pads, they are semi-harsh on discs but stop very well and are cheap as a full tank of fuel

is the throttle body completely shut on idle? if there is a leak in the throttle body, the idle control valve wont change a thing and it will idle higher than normal

xforce make good exhaust systems, i dont know about the efficiency of their cats (who needs a cat anyway? ) but the quality of the turbo back exhaust systems is very good, look good, sound good, and fit perfect

thanks for the info quite annoying to see WA traffic lights copping speed cameras too now just like in VIC, every 2nd traffic light is a speed camera over there.. it was bound to happen though im actually suprised it took this long.. but now that it has.. not so happy haha

awesome colour for the 32, love it

ur problem is most probably reversion, air going back to afm from the turbo wen the throttle body closes and causing ecu to go spastic, afm has to be further away from the turbo, does it still have mesh on both sides?

46-52nM on main bolts conrod nuts are 14-16nM then an additional 60 degrees - if u dont have a protractor adaptor etc then just torque to 30 it will be fine info sourced from nissan r33 service manual these values are calculated for brand new parts/bolts/nuts - if ur re-using old bolts, id do so with extra care if you want anymore info use this online manual: http://www.scribd.com/Nissan-Skyline-R33-e...anual/d/5332707

where can u buy those boxes from? will pits approve them? has anyone had an aftermarket battery relocation to rear and passed pits? pics of setups if possible?

if your planning on passing the pits with a battery in the back, pits want fully sealed box with a pipe going to the outside of the car etc etc blah blah expensive excercise, even if its drycell, they dont care otherwise, its quite simple and a good idea for weight distribution and also to extend battery life due to less heat, if u get a yellow, return it back to standard, its alot easier to do that, than make the pits happy funny enough, i got an engineer to approve of the battery in boot install, gave a cert for it, but pit inspector still didnt like it for alot of stupid reasons, i gave up, not worth the hassle from cops / pits etc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xykDdOiz3zI

get a lean idle with those cams if u love lumpyness

or u can just ground the fuel pump pin on the ecu while ignition is on

best you can do is recheck ur wiring, where did u get the 12v source from? where are u grounding it to?

very interesting, thanks

dont rely on the readings of that gauge, they are not accurate enough, get a decent one a friends r34 was boosting to that green line on the gauge u pointed out, installed a set of aftermarket gauges, it was actually boosting to 14psi.. lol

im guessing crack is pretty cheap these days?

woa +1 for confusion!