djr81

I'm guessing the list would start out something like this: Swaybars Struts/spring combo or coilovers Control arm bushes Subframe bushes Steering rack bushes Strut brace(s) but being new to the world of skylines (coming from the cordia the above list covers it all ) I don't know what else is needed. Are there other bushes and bits that you'd do if completely overhauling the suspension? If you inspect the bushes then you only need replace what is stuffed. Your list is comprehensive. 1) Is the rear suspension a strut design like the fronts or independent spring/struts like a trailing arm? I ask because I wonder whether there are strut braces available for the rear and whether they're worthwhile. The rear suspension is a double wishbone like the front. (ie not a semi trailing arm). On the rear, strut braces aren't needed. 2) What's the difference between a coil/shock strut design and a 'coilover'? I've always purchased separate spring/strut combos for my cars but I keep seeing coilovers for skylines at fairly massive prices, so what's the difference? A 'coilover' has a threaded shock case & the coil is closely wound around the shock body. On ordinary shock wont have the height adjustability that a coil over has. In terms of function there is no real difference. There is a third type eg the bilsteins whereby an ordinary spring is used but the shock body has clips to allow height adjustment in increments. 3) Are nolathane products common and in a skyline what is the compromise between comfort and handling like? Some cars get a really sharp and ultimately uncomfortable ride with nolathane while others just seem to tighten up and still feel nice. And are nolathane bits made for most of the car? The Whiteline gear is not Nolathane, nor is the Noltec stuff. To be honest it is probably not worth bothering with on a Skyline. 4) Re strut braces: reading SK's Shockabsorber 101 thread I found the following information: Since the purpose of a strut brace is to try and stop the tower from moving when the strut takes (mainly) lateral force, if the double wishbone setup takes care of this is there any point to strut braces? Or is there still significant force in the direction of the strut that a brace is valuable? Strut braces work much better on MacPherson strut suspended cars than on Wishbone suspended cars. I would defy anyone to notice the difference in a back to back drive, but they don't hurt & if you want some bling then go buy one.

Thanks for that - you're a champ.

Do WASCC members get free entry to this?

I usually set the camera to be able to manually select the shutter speed - mostly because it is in auto the car is gone by the time it gets its shit together. The speed I use varies, but typically is something like 1/400 or 1/640 or 1/800 (from memory). The ISO speed has four (I think) settings - so I should use a lower setting for the shiney stuff? BTW, what sort of DSLR whould you recommend for this sort of caper, ie cars on circuits.

The shutter speed (if that is what you mean) will go down to 1/3200 of a second. The equivalent film speed is Auto*, ISO 50/100/200/400 equivalent (* Camera automatically sets optimum speeds.) Specs are here if it helps... http://www.canon.com.au/products/cameras/d...s2is_specs.html

I am having all sorts of problems getting good photos of white cars on racetracks (ie moving) when the sun is out. The panels on the care seem to flare. (If that is the correct expression). anyway, see the attachment for what I am trying to say. Can anyone suggest any set ups tips (eg exposure length etc) for the camera. It is a Canon S2 IS.

Ferrari are still sponsored by Marlboro. Hence the ciggie packet red instead of a proper scarlet colour. They just aren't allowed to show their logos. Besides, it is not like they need the money.

Try www.pitstop.net.au

Um, I think people are getting their wires crossed. The R compound Bridgestone tyre is the RE55. There are two compounds available in Australia - a hard & a soft. If you go to an ordinary Bridgestone shop you will probably get a blank look from the bloke behind the desk, so try the more motorsports orientated outfits.

Well the rear ends in the V8's are only very tenuously linked to the Ford 9" diff. There has been (Like every component in the cars) an awful lot of engineering put into them. If you take a look at the detail work of the diffs in the car you can see why Ron Harrop & the like earn their money. There are plenty of showroom series out there. Unfortunately the history of showroom class racing is a litany of cheating when done at the top level.

Which entirely misses the poijnt of using a broker. he should be using his contacts & relationships in Japan to ensure you get a car in good condition. It is not just about paperwork...

Um, ok your wrong. Oil does not jump from one viscosity to the next. It varies continuously with temperature (inversely as mentioned earlier). The difference between a (for example) 0W50 oil & a 5W40 oil at normal operating temps will be next to stuff all. The viscosity of the oil is not indicative of its protective properties, but is indicative of its film thickness (to a degree). That a thicker oil is necessarily better is one of the enduring myths of motoring. A higher viscosity oil will create more pumping losses within the motor - this is one reason car manufacturers are progressively lowered their oil viscosity ranges over the years. The specific heat of the oil (ie how much energy is required to heat a certain amount a degree) is not strongly a function of viscosity. So a 40W oil doesn't heat any more quickly or slowly than a 60W oil. It will, however, be of a lower viscosity at any given temperature. The viscosity rating is not indicative of an oil's ability to maintain its integrity at high tenperature.

Yeah, thats me. Not saying that at all. There are two numbers. The winter number is on the LHS before the W & the summer number is on the RHS. That the RHS number is larger is not indicative of the viscosity being higher than the winter number. Almost all liguids lose viscosity as they get hotter, oil not least. Please don't confuse viscosity with wear protection. They are not necessarily related.

Well, maybe the worst thing since Belestre. You have to remember that doing things for "safety" reasons is about the only way the FIA can get anything done. Getting the teams to agree on anything is next to impossible.

Could someone please help with me with a translation of the following info on the Bilstein BPS dampers. Also does the webpage confirm them to be for BNR32 GTR's? http://store.yahoo.co.jp/mudjayson/bps-jpn4.html Unfortunately no amount of babelfish will work on jpeg's! Thankyou in advance.

Have a look (grovel) further toward the front of the damper near the Bilstein sticker (A mirror helps) The thing may well read B46-1472 or similar...

Well, from what I have seen having a wheel aligning machine out of calibration is not unique to Bob Janes. Nor is having operators who don't know/care. In anycase you will always get variations when you take a car off & then drive it back on the aligner. Best advice is to ask when they last had it calibrated & also to take your own alignment specs as they don't always have them & you don't know what they have. Be careful when doing the toe in as sometimes people get confused with per side measurements & total measurements.

Um, eh? The first number (before the W) indicates the oil viscosity when cold. The second number indicates its viscosity when hot. So mobil 1 5W50 viscosity is 105 centistokes at 40 degrees C & 17.5 centistokes at 100 degrees C. 0W40 equivalent numbers are 80 & 14. The hot end is more important because you can cook the oil in a GT-R quite easilly with no cooler. This is why a higher viscosity hot temperature property can be a good thing. These are physical properties of the oil & don't refer to it's protection. For that you need look at different API ratings for the oils. I don't know what "the amount of protection - ie the protection of a 50W oil." means. Try the Mobil website.... http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/LCW...c_V_Mineral.asp

Hey Baron - are these still for sale & also do you have the part numbers for the dampers (eg B46-1672 & B46-1673 or similar).

woops, didn;t read it properly - I just assumed they meant the rotor. If it is a crack in the caliper then, yes bin the thing & replace it with a good second hand unit.

It depends what they looks like. If they are similar to the ones in the first photo they are the result of giving the brakes a pasting and are a common side effect of them being hot. They are not really that much of a concern. It they look like the second photo then keep a very close eye on them or better still bin the rotor & sleep easy.

Quick answers: -Is the Nissan 7.5-30w oil sufficient for a car that's basically stock other than a turbo back exhaust and an air filter? Yes, but just go & buy some Mobil 1 5W50. - Does anyone have a problem with the standard Nissan Fuel Filter? No. A Ryco one is ok too. - What fluid are people using in the Diff's (mine is a V-Spec so Active LSD if that matters) Box has just had redline put in it so not worried about that ATM. - Are standard copper NGK's (as listed on the website) sufficient if I'm happy to change them with the oil every 5,000k's? I read that some people gap them to .8 regardless of mods level. Why change them every 5000kms? Good plugs should last much, much longer than that. So buy some decent ones & then you can largely forget about them for a long while. If it is stock, gap them to what Nissan recommends. Anything else I should be thinking of doin in my first fluid flush/inspection etc beyond (odometer reads 35xxxk's) - Air, Oil and Fuel Filter - Engine, Diff, Brake/Clutch/Power Steer Fluid/Oil Check Replacement? Replace the coolant...

Ok. Don't buy it.

Buy it.

If the gauge was reading 100lb then the thing wouldn't pull a drunk sailor off your sister. So I would say there is something not quite right with the gauge or the setup for the test. Is the battery fully charged & in good nick? Did he do a wet test?