djr81

Start the car. The warning light for the system will come on if it isn't working. Open the boot & stick your head in there. Under the parcel shelf on the passengers side is the ATTESSA module. It will flash a number of times & then take a rest. Count the number of flashes. Then you can look it up in the manual, or simply post it & someone will doubtless look it up for you.

Forgot to mention the ACCC investigation. Just for everyones information: You don't get the newsletter until you have gone through the initiation. It is BYO trefolex, too. Gotta go, being watched...

Dezz, don't be a soft c*ck. If you were really serious you would organise the following: Protests outside Howard's Sydney residence. A consumer boycott of everything. Court action in the Hague siting the labour (State) & Liberal/National (federal) parties for crimes against humanity. An appearance on foreign TV trashing Australia & questioning everyones right to live there (Apart from yourself) An ongoing media campaign speaking out about your innocence, how long you have had to suffer from this terrible injustice & describing your deteriorating mental condition. Lastly, have you thought about running against either Howard or maybe the Premier at the next state/federal election? Dezz for PM.

Shouldn't do. AP know their stuff & don't go too large on piston area. Even the 6 pot CP5555 only list at 50.1cm2.

Your dreams are your ticket out. Sorry, I digress. Thing to remember is that more postive caster will lengthen the wheelbase of the car ie pull the lower arm forward. The spindle (Upright) on the RHS will rotate anti clockwise as you look at it when you dial in more caster. Anyway check the front bush in the castor rod for wear as that is the first & most likely suspect.

Well approximately 6 billion people get spammed the email so you aren't going to get much of chance to get the thing checked out properly. Secondly if you know what you want to buy then invariably you can get a car more suited to your good self. Thirdly if you understand how the auctions work you will recongnise that alot of cars get passed in. So what is on the list is only scraping the surface of whats available. But, no there isn't necessarily anything wrong with the cars. Although they do tend to be at the cheap/nasty end of the range.

Well, firstly welcome back. Secondly the RH outer end of which arm? The top link or the castor arm? Castor should be a little different left to right. LHS being a bit more (from memory) about half a degree. A photo would help heaps....

Rim size & camber are in no way related.

Worse? No. Not at all. Infact quite the opposite. They are as well engineered & built as any performance car you will find. Make sure the car you are buying is in good condition & has been looked after. Then look after it yourself. Infact treat it in the same manner that you would wish the seller treated it. Maintain it, drive it sensibly & you will have years of fun ahead of you.....

They are a nice idea. They relocate (in the case of the front, lower) the roll centre by changing the inclination of the suspension arm. Different front & rear roll couples are one of the best ways of adjusting the handling balance of a car (& reducing the understeer that GT-R suffer from). Unfortunately I don't think that increasing the amount of roll at the front end will be of much help to anyone which is what the first picture shows. Not sure what the second one is of - rear end perhaps - because the babelfish translation isn't up to the task.

Good call. Always think about what you have to say before you say it. A bit of silence never hurt anyone. Useful words are approximately & about. Useful phrases are I'm not 100% sure & I think so. Eg "How fast were you going." "Approximately...." What you should be aiming for is to be polite, but with a hint of disdain. Appearing to be a little fed up with them wasting your time doesn't hurt either but only if you haven't actually done anything wrong. Remember it is an attitude test as much as anything....

Check the offset on rotors for the BA's in the DBA catalogue. You can then compare this to the Nissan. If they are the same you will be onto a winner. Definately? No. Probably? Yes. You have to remember that the width of the caliper is just as important as the rotor diameter. Make youself up a template & check it. $600 for what? Hatted rotor? Cast rotor? Grooved? 28mm or 32mm wide?

Intersted yes, but probably not at $1500 for a spacer plate. Yikes.

Gees, what is it with WA & the ECU wars? A good tuner can tune any ECU. True. BUT For a good, experienced tuner it should be a case of "Here's one we prepared earlier for a car just like yours." This should save you money & also mean less time spent on the dyno as the tune will/should only need minor adjustments instead of wholesale changes.

Adjustment. The honest answer is I don't know. Previously I ran quite a bit of caster in the front end. To be honest I found it made very little difference. If you are bored you can work out how much an extra couple of degrees caster makes to the tyre camber at a quarter of a turn lock. The (short) answer is bugger all. Once I worked this out & looked at the increased load the caster puts on the short lived top outer bushes I wrote it off as a bad idea & just ran four degrees or thereabouts. Best advice I can offer is that if you need more -ve camber do that & don't worry about the caster so much. As an aside, have you seen these - from Ikeya. Just wondering if anyone has tried the spacer for the outer joint & if it makes much of difference to the height of the front roll centre. Did you happen to see any alloy caster rods on you travels?

Newey or computer that does all the computational fluid dynamics on the car before it even gets near the wind tunnel? Fom what I understand Newey's genious (& from all accounts he does have a brain the size of a planet) is as much in packaging the car together as in aero.

Hopefully you learned that fellating the officer concerned didn't mean you got away with it. Just concentrate on not appearing to be a dickhead & you will find the coppers will treat you with respect. This approach also has the advantage of allowing you to retain some self respect. Oh, and NEVER say thankyou.

Yeah, they look pretty straight to me. I haven't had any problems with them. If you would like I can try & get a part number off them.

Brakes: Two things come to mind. 1. Try them first. Depending on the caliper piston area & the rotor diameter you may not have changed the bias that much. Have a look at the different master cylinders for the R32's. The one for the Brembo equipped cars is different (larger bore) than the Sumitomo equipped cars & the balance is slightly differrent. Which one have you got? 2. Get a data logger & examine your braking. It is VERY easy to lose time under brakes. Mash them really hard when you first apply them on the circuit & concentrate hard on the heel & toe downchanges. Lightened pulleys etc: Your GT-R will weigh more than 1500kg with you aboard. Losing 1kg from the car will be completely undetectable. Lowering the rotational inertia is better than dumping straight out dead weight, but again 1kg is not detectable. The money for this stuff is better spent elsewhere. However you may want to look at an undersize harmonic balancer as these will also slow the ancilliaries & the water pump. Much cheaper than a carbon driveshaft. Don't believe anyone who tells you the light weight will make or lose you any more rwhp.

Hmmm, mine look like this. R32 R.

Unfortunately there is a law against it. Use this link at your own risk. http://www.itv-f1.com/Home.aspx

To be fair they all get alot of dreamers, especially emails from the same. Also, the stuff the email out is just the tip of what is available - you are invariably better off not buying one off the stock lists

Don't worry about Brembo's. The difference between the poverty pack model used on the Skylines & the Sumitomo caliper is nowhere near worth the difference in asking price IMHO.

Good choice. Just a tip, Danny is a busy bloke so it helps all concerned if you think carefully about what you want & specify it to him. Saves everyone alot of trouble that way. Note: This is true of all brokers.

My point is that the consequence (ie how much it will cost) varies enormously depending on the car the person is in. A bit like (to use your analogy) the government saying you should get more years for murder if you use an expensive gun. In other words, a nonsense. To be clear I have never done a burnout in my life. I completely fail to understand the attraction. But at the end of the day it is not much more than a public nuisance & a long way from the safety menace it is portayed to be. The sort of vilification of people who like cars (seen as the same sort as dickheads doing burnouts & drifting on public roads) does nothing to promote road safety. It simply serves to reinforce the natural disdain that people (particularly young people) have of the sort of authoritarian @#$%wits like Grant Dorrington & the rubbish they spout. Which in turn makes it less likely they will listen to ANY of the safety messages being put about.