djr81

Sorry, the size was just off the top of my head - will have a look for the other stuff. Has anyone actually got them?

As per the title, does anyone actually make a hatted rotor in the 289 front diameter to suit an R32 GT-R? DBA doesn't list them nor does project Mu...

Spoken like someone who has never watched an IRL race......

Did you not use thermographic paint to measure the rotor temperatures? I am pretty sure that the temps will be hitting well over the 630 degree mark on the front & 550 on the back. Atleast that's what mine do. Also, whilst the standard rotors & brakes are pretty good, it is difficult to generate more than one gees retardation at track speeds. Which is to say, they aren't really good enough for a serious track car. Measuring the temps when you get back to the pits is a bit meaningless. Also, if you used an infra red pyrometer it is completely meaningless because they don't work on shiney metal surfaces.

Same. The pads I was running (on the rotors that became cracked) were RB74's front & Bendix Ultimates rear. So nothing you could call aggressive...

Times relative to Rosberg at one test doesn't mean anything. The encouraging thing is that a Williams was out in front (low fuel + new tyres?). Mark has belted Rosberg all year, so one test on what were certainly different setups means nothing.

Silly pricing has kept me away from the Castrol gear. Nothing else.

If they are DS2500's they will have DS2500 written on the back of the pad.

Front or rear? Also, how much rotor width was left. Mostly I find rotors crack when: 1. They are getting near the width limit. 2. They aren't warmed/cooled properly. 3. Poor design in the frst place. At the moment I am putting the cracks in my REAR rotors down to reason number 3. As to the fronts, you can see the cracked rotor surface. Not sure if these are cracks or the grain boundaries in the metal wearing. Maybe a metallurgist/brake guru can help...

Be careful with the DBA 4000 series rotors as well. These are my REAR rotors. Fronts were not too far away from being the same. Wear on both fronts & rears was negligible, but nonetheless cracks formed then propogated from the return slots in the rotors. I would recommend a rotors without slots that go all the way to the outside as these just seem to crack. As for pads, the Ferodo DS2500's are very good on the GT-R. I highly recommend them. Just make sure with any new pad/disc combo you bed them in properly & that the system is bled properly - something which some workshops find very difficult to do.

Another remarkably eloquent display of xenophobia. Nice work. Just because the Tiida is yet another third rate povvo pack small car, sold in this instance is by some third rate American slapper, does that make it any worse than the last generation of Pulsars? The history of Nissan/Datsun is predominantly one of producing what, in all fairness have been remarkably crap cars. There have been some exceptions - the Z's, a few of the 180/200SX/Sylvia line and some Skylines. Most of what ws good was spawned from the 901 project/business plan/call it what you will. It created some brilliant cars, but left the company in an awful state.

Yep, I particularly hate the way they bailed out & turned around a company that was rapidly going broke. Personally, I will never forgive them for that.

I remember the glory days: The 180B, the 200B, the 120Y, the Pintara, the Exa, the Stanza. Happy days, happy days.

I would like to see alonso's first few laps as he was off the planet with cold tyres trying to keep up. Actually the most interesting point (IMHO) is this: Will the big mistake that Schumacher made, ie going off the track in the mid race cost him the world championship.

Yamaha OX99-11 What else you got, Muz?

Yes.

It was great to be able to go to just about the only world class event WA had - all this less than 100kms from home & for all of $20 for the day. I am sure the banana benders will do a good job, but you can't match the dirt roads around here. Standing in the middle of a forrest getting covered in dust & having rocks spat at you as the likes of Colin McRae came screaming part but a few metres away.... Nothing else comes close. I have to go now, I am feeling all emotional. By the way, did I mention how much I hated the state government for doing this?

Bloody hell, the gingers are reaching plague proportions.

Just buy them anyway & use the extra few hp to your advantage. Mind you at 63 seconds for the short track, can I suggest some tyre & suspension work first?

But so obviously lacking in aero development.

Was the cover in place?

No they don't. But the lobe centres on the cam are different to the Nissan ones. To change the timing belt you have to take the water pump out. Given how cheap they are it is one of those may as well do it jobs.

If you are thinking about new cams at any stage you can give the adustable pulleys a miss as the Poncams (To use but one example) have different centres to the stock items & you don't get such a gain from playing around with them. Get a water pump too. You may as well do this at the same time as you will be up to your armpits in it all. As for the whole steel/aluminium/duralium thing. It doesn't matter that much. What you have is essentially a rubber toothed belt that is running in the cam pulley. It doesn't wear the pulley worth a damn. The only way it can do so is if you are vain/stupid enough to leave the dust cover off it. The advantage of an aluminium set of pulleys is that they are lighter & take some of the reciprocating mass off the engine & hence make the pulleys job that little bit easier. The Tomei ones are good because they are from the appropriate grades of aluminium (ie duralium etc) & also have five locating bolts instead of three or four like many others. Lastly, the pretty blue colour matches my eyes & the red my handbag.

Get the Tomei ones. Better than either of the other options.

This may be of interest to some of you. http://www.motorsportcollector.com/0806Books.html