djr81

Just make sure you have done all the things like: Roaded (heat cycled) the tyres. Bedded in the brake pads. Made sure the engine tune is good. Figured out you tyre pressure set points. Basically try & remove from having to worry about all the things that can potentially distract you from concentrating on driving the thing and learning how to steer it around the track with the new set up.

You are better off having on the drivers side, because you know it is there & you then don;t have to worry about people sliding the seat forward & making a mess of the upholstery. This is the bracket I made.

Just to be clear, the people protesting infront of parliament house wanted the rally to continue. The thousands of spectators who attended the race every year wanted it to continue. The organisers wanted it to continue. The competitors wanted it to continue. The local communities wanted it to continue. The only people who were not interested were our incompetent, out of touch, inept State Government. If there is any justice in the world at the next election they will not continue.

The R32 is a car just like any other. Some of them have rust (allthough they are very good in that respect), some of them have old, tired engines, some of them tired drivetrains, suspension etc etc etc. The great advantage you have is that there are quite a few of them around & you can check ALL these things. As for faults inherent to the design, the GT-R suffers from very few. It is one of the best engineered, toughest cars going around. Yes people have problems with the engines, but as often as not it is a motor with 100,000+kms on it that has been capable of producing over 300kW for most of that time. You will find it a whole world away from a local car in terms of build quality. You can use it as a daily driver, but be aware it will cost more (I would guess 30% more) to run than, say a local V8. Find a nice, clean one & you will have a very good car indeed. Remember get a good one, not a cheap one.

No. Nothing at all.

Simtek & Lola were two separate teams. Simtek's driving force was Nick Wirth (Now allegedly designing Le Mans cars for Honda) & they breifly spluttered into life in the early 90's before going profoundly broke. Eric Broadley was the owner of the famous Lola name, but their F1 drive (The last of several) was an even more abject failure. The arrangements they had in place with Mastercard failed to generate any real revenue & the cars themselves were hopeless. The disappeared after only one or two races. Hesken was actually Heskett, as in son of rajab. Cars wre occassionally good, but the parties have been recorded as being epic.

You haven't necessarily wasted any money. It is still important for the toe to be correct & that the rear camber be good. It is pretty common for (Especially the rear) the alignment settings to be rubbish when the cars some in from Japan. Which in turn can wreck your tyres prematurely.

The problem with F1 increasingly being the province of car companies alone is that when there is a downturn in the market, or when they get bored, or when they find a better way of marketing their cars F1 will be in a whole world of trouble. Some, like Honda are there because it is art of the very nature of the company. Others, like Toyota are there to sell more cars. Say what you like about the "Garagista", but people like Ron Dennis, Patrick Head, Colin Chapman even Minardi & Jordan are/were there because they wanted to go racing. No other reason.

I thought being a blood nut was sufficient excuse.

Standard adjustments are limited to toe in on both the front & the back & camber on the back. There is no such thing as a caster adjustment for the back. To adjust the front caster & camber you need some aftermarket gear. None of this, however, excludes the possibility that you ARE going crazy.

Actually, just once, I would like to see the blah blah whatever buyers guide include SOMEONE who has a shop in WA. Just once.

Just out of interest do many of the mags take unsolicited tech articles?

Yeah, but I would just like some technical content to go along with the pretty pictures. The Nismo festival stuff was great, but I know what most of the cars look like from the outside - it is the oily bits underneath that are more interesting.

Actually the thng I used to like was they actually paid some attention to other than Drags. Now that is the only form of motorsport Zoom or HPI pays any attention to. I guess you don't mind that, Adrian!

Never tried it. I only ever contemplated rotating them front & rear as the fronts tend to get the outside edges bashed off them (cornering) & the rears the inner edges (from wheelspin). They all pretty much wear at the same rate. Easiest thing is to find an anti clockwise circuit to balance the things out. Speaking of which, you entering any SES events at all Franz?

Yeah, me too. Sucks not having a life, doesn't it.

Just to clear something up the RE55 is BOTH a directional tyre & a handed tyre. So a right hand side RE55 can only go on the RHS & same for the LHS.

There are a couple of shops, Imports101 & Autoworx in Wangara. If you are interested I have a 94 GT-R complied under SEVS which is for sale. You can PM me for details.

That is a bit harsh. (less harsh now after the edit ) A broader point to be aware of is that you have to be scrupulously honest with your insurance company. Make sure you tell them about all your infringements etc.

Just take your spark plug cover...

Your friend's wang is a very useful tool. Baron, get some help. Seriously. To anyone using an infra red thermometer make sure you brush all the dirt & rubbish off the tyre before you check the temps as these thing don;t work on other than black surfaces (Because they work on the emissivity of the surface being measured). Also, I have found that winding in amounts of -ve camber on the front more than about 2 degrees makes a mess of the centre of wheel to underside of guard measurement as the rim is rotated upwards & the centre of tyre moves accordingly - much more than the actual ride height changes.

Sway bars work by transferring load from the inside tyre to the outside tyre. One of the side effects of stiff settings is to reduce the tractive effort the inside (unloaded) tyre can generate before spinning. Try backing off both bars a notch before you lash out on a new diff.

How about something like this, Baron? Car Make/Model: R32 GT-R Front: Spring type: Spring rate: Damper: Anti roll bar type: Anti roll bar size/setting: Ride height*: Tyre size: Tyre brand: Camber: Caster: Rose joint or bush: Toe in (Total): Rear: Spring Type: Spring Rate: Damper Anti roll bar type/size: Anti roll bar size/setting: Ride height*: Tyre size: Tyre brand: Camber: Toe in (Total): HICAS functional Y/N: Intent: eg 100% track use, to 100% street use. Comments (eg any compromises you have to have because of whatever reason…. Eg can’t run any lower ride height because the tyres scrape the guards) Handling characteristics: Turn in: Mid corner: Corner exit: Changes: Have you made any changes to the suspension setup & what if any effects have you notice?: Note: Photos of the car cornering or logged data will also be well regarded! *From centre of wheel to underside of guard

From memory & on the assumption that an RB26 is the same there are three wires going to each coil. Grab the fattest of the three & clip the induction loop from the timing light around it.

It does seem to have a fairly strong effect - atleast the differential front to rear does anyway. I am raising the front ride height by 5mm next to see if it balances the car a bit better.