Checkbuzz

$100 including postage within AUS This manual is brand new and costs AU$140 on line from NZ!

Hi Guys & Gals I have a printed and bound full workshop (chassis) manual for the R33 covering all models. It is brand new and never been used. It covers drive train (manual and auto), suspension, steering, brakes, electrical, body (interior & exterior) etc These rare manuals were never released in English and this one has been professionally translated into English. Better be quick... yours for only $100 + postage! Checkbuzz

This looks like an awesome deal... except I'm a couple of weeks too late! Any chance of a late order being accepted now???

Anyone got more than "a bit harder"?

The title says it all really... are the diff mounting bushes on an R33 easy to replace at home or do they require a press? Was thinking of UAS or Super Pro bushes - any recommendations? The pumpkin is coming out for a new LSD to be fitted Cheers

RMS motorsports (Melbourne)

WTF... Are you reading the same post mate? or even the next line after the one you have quoted above? "Viscous LSDs are not the real deal and even when new do not provide the response or locking capabilities of a mechanical LSD, after 100k+km's and a few laps of Sandown the stocker is 100% useless!" No doubt the R31 diff is a doozy... but the R33 viscous LSD is a POS!

Re-shimming the stock diff is just an exercise in turd polishing. Anyone that knows anything about diffs will confirm that for you. Viscous LSDs are not the real deal and even when new do not provide the response or locking capabilities of a mechanical LSD, after 100k+km's and a few laps of Sandown the stocker is 100% useless! The car is currently fairly stock (195rwkw) but won't be staying like that for long... unlike most I am taking the sensible approach and doing the cooling, clutch, diff, brakes and suspension before gunning for more kw. I have a Nistune Z32 ECU and AFM waiting to be installed and are currently looking at turbo and injector upgrades. I have a bit a track experience with this car and my biggest frustration is not being able to get the power to the ground through my single-legging diff! Even then I am still smoking M3's, Lotus Elise etc as well as many professionally prep'ed race cars ! I do appreciate all your comments and discussion guys - keep 'em coming!

Thanks for the feedback guys! @djr81 - ROFL! It isn't for drifting mate but thanks I love the comments I do realise that flywheels don't affect the actual torque produced by the engine but they do affect how that torque is applied to the wheels, which for all practical reasons is what really matters. @PaulosECR33 -I am upgrading the flywheel because I am upgrading the clutch, and replacing the rear main seal etc. This car is no longer my primary drive so will be more track focussed from now on. I believe in doing a job once, doing it properly and getting the car fit for purpose. The original flywheel would have to be removed and machined anyway so the cost of a new flywheel is really peanuts in the scheme of things... I just want to make sure I get the right one. So it looks like the steel billet 6.8kg flywheel will be a good compromise between street and track as well as ticking all the boxes for friction and heat-sinking capabilities.

Thanks alot guys this info is exactly what I was after... 1.5way it is! I can get a Kaaz 1.5 way for $1175 at the moment and I think that is the way to go, they seem to be good quality LSDs.

I'm looking at purchasing a Kaaz LSD because they are at pretty good prices currently and I need to get more power to the ground (my stock LSD is single legging it all the time now) I understand the theory of the differences between how the 1.5 and 2 way configurations work but what does this mean in practise? My car will only be used on the street (not daily) and track days (grip) and I want to make sure I get the right LSD Some say 2 way is the only way to go... Others have told me that 2 way is not good for the street (especially in the wet) and that they induce a heap of under steer and you have to completely change your driving style on the track. Some experienced (weekend) track racers I have spoken to have gone from 2 way back to 1.5 way... What are your thoughts and experiences guys? 1.5 or 2 way?

Hi guys & Gals The general consensus appears to be that lightened flywheels are a good thing for turbo cars and (grip) track work but that going too light can be a problem (loss of torque). I had a reliable source (Jim Berry the clutch man) tell me that the stock flywheel (i.e. not lightened) is the way to go (for turbo Nissans) and not to bother with the lightened items especially the alloy and cro-molly flywheels (due to friction and heat sinking capabilities). Stock flywheels are 9.6-10kgs and I have been looking at a steel billet NPC flywheel that is 6.8kgs which seems like a good compromise. I would like to know what peoples thoughts and experiences are with lightened flywheels vs stock and ideal weights for different racing e.g. grip, drift or drags. Cheers

Interested in the Z32... got any pix? There are a sh1te load of fakes going around.

I can't PM you mate and I'm keen on this AFM... will you post to VIC? I'll give you $200 for it now

They look like series 1 headlights is that correct?

It's not the pod's fault that you just stuck it in a hot engine bay! Most people who install pod filters fit some kind of heat sheild and/or cold air intake to work around this issue. In saying that though I've heard that the stock airbox with a good quality filter is good for up to 300rwkw and is much less bother with the cops! Personally I love the sound of the intake with the pod filter (I am running an Apexi pod in a fully enclosed UAS aluminium cold air intake box)

At a guess I would say if it "keeps boosting" that it maybe that the "feedback loop" has been broken... i.e. if the vacuum hose from the manifold to the EBC is pinched or split and is losing or blocking pressure on it's way back to the EBC it will try to compensate by cranking up the boost until it see's the expected pressure from the manifold. That is pretty much how EBCs work in a nutshell so I would be checking or just replacing that vacuum hose ($10) before spending big $$ on a replacement EBC or ECU. Good luck mate, I hope it is that simple & cheap for you!

Don't use the instructions for a Bosche pump. If you got the right one, the Walbro should be a model specific factory replacement kit which means no hacking or cutting or cable tying or any of the other crap that you have to do with the Bosch... But I guess if you got the right one it would also have come with instructions (all for a shade over $100)

Actually 285 is still a recommended size for 9.5" rims. Only when you get up to 295 is a 10" rim the minimum rim width. Nothing ridiculous about it.... In fact what you have there - 245 on a 10" rim is outside of manufacturer specs; a 245 should go on a 9.5" rim maximum.

I was running 265/30x19 on 9.5" rims with room to spare (they looked almost strectched) - I reckon a 275 or 285 would have fitted easy. Now running 245/35x19 on the same rims because I saved $500 and actually prefer the 35 profile over the 30 profile. (looks, comfort, ride and grip). To be honest you cannot tell the difference looking at it between 245 & 265 except the 245/35 fills the wheel arch more than the 265/30 so looks better. Another decision to go with the narrower tyre is tyre wear from running negative camber is more pronounced as you go wider... P.s Falken FK452's are my tyre of choice - they are the best bang for buck out there!

+1 for BC's I'd put the BC's up against the Tein SS or Greddy type S any day... I've heard plenty of horror stories about both esp the Tein SS. Just because a product comes from a big brand name it doesn't automatically make it a great product these are very much "entry level" items and they are not tuned for local conditions - remember google is your friend! Good luck

+1 for BC's Not one person that has bagged BC's on this forum appears to be speaking from any real world experience. Listen to the people who are all very happy driving and racing on BC coil overs (including me)... or just go and spend huge sums of money on some "big name brand" ones that will do exactly the same job. There are certainly better coil overs out there but BC's are hard to beat in the sub $2000 price range. Good luck

Mate if you don't want the squeal you will likely need to go for standard pads. All performance brake pads squeal to some degree... that is the trade off with pads: silence for performance Learn to live with it

+1 for BC's I did my homework on these things and I've been running them in my R33 for over 6 months now including many track days and they are awesome; heaps of adjustment, firm but not too firm (and if you don't like firm why would you even be considering after market coil overs?). My only suggestion is get them set up properly by a suspension professional - it will make a huge difference, you can't just chuck them in and expect everything to be 100% I have spoken to the guy that first brought these coil-overs into the country and helped develop them for local conditions (he is not the sole Aus retailer any more). "They are great bang for buck and you would have to spend twice as much coin to get something as good from a competitor brand" that is pretty much from the horses mouth (who by the way only sells the other brands now). There are also plenty of professionally prepared race cars out there using them for a while now with no issues at all. They do come out of the same factory in Taiwan as Greddy and some of the other big name brands. They are not the best coil over on the market but they probably are the best budget coil over out there (sub $2000+) Yes you only get what you pay for - it's just that with the big brands you are paying for more than just some hardware - you are paying for all their fancy marketing, advertising & sponsorship etc The nay-sayers are all just big jap brand lovers who can't live with the fact that they have paid way over the odds for their brand name coil overs (some of which are total crap) and now everyone else can get the same thing for half the money

This "mechanic" of yours sounds like a total dick head mate. I've never heard of something so stupid in my life. If he won't play the game (i.e. paying for a complete rebuild) then I would be rounding up a few of the boys and paying him a visit. I certainly wouldn't take no for an answer