Checkbuzz

Well the product in the comparison is different from the one in the link however those results are a little worrying... I find it diffcult to believe that a US company would go around making wildly false claims about the accuracy of a wideband AFR meter. The good 'ol US litigation lawyers would have a firggin field day with that! Accurate to 1 AFR is a very long way off the claimed <0.1 AFR I would suggest that the device was faulty or the testing flawed in some way (which appears to be the case if you read on from the test results in this thread)

Price?

PLX devices are selling their new DM6 mutli-guage and wide band AFR sensor for $199! http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.php The DM6 can handle multiple inputs so you are not limited to a single funtion it can also manage oil, coolant, temps, pressures etc with the right modules i.e. very versatile! P.S. It is accurate to <0.01AFR This is the best bang-for-buck deal I have seen and I am eyeing one up for Xmas

Yeh I should have clarified; nobody has the NT-01's in stock

I've just experienced exactly the same issue myself after cranking the boost up to 20psi Do not cable tie your vacuum hoses... that is a temporary, half-arsed solution at best... They are called cable ties for a reason; because that is what they are designed to do - not clamp hoses! Get proper hose clamps or you will risk the same thing happening again I had to look around before I found those spring hose clamps similar to the OEM ones; East Coast auto supplied what Autobarn and others could not. (The other screw and bolt style clamps don't seem to come small enough for many of the vacuum hoses)

There is only one problem with these great prices on Nitto tyres at Taleb and Ozzy tyres... Nobody has any stock!?!? Ozzytyres took my money and then phoned me 5 days later to say "sorry we don't have any in stock" and then tried to sell me inferior, cheaper tyres for the same money telling me that they were better and cost more (they were trying to sell me RT615's and NT555R's neither of which are in the same league for performance or price). That is at best dishonest and at worse... well... what do you reckon? I would not recommend Ozzytyres at all

I dunno dude... Do you see the letters "A-LSD" anywhere in any of my posts??? You can probably work out the answer for yourself from here... P.S. You should be up for TROLL of the year with this! Nice work!

I just got an absolute friggin bargain on NT01's from www.ozzytyres.com.au Check em out; they seem to be having a sale on Nitto at the moment and I cannot believe how cheap they are!!!

You can't go wrong with NISMO or Tomei injectors for top quality after market injectors 555cc injectors will do the job nicely but if you are considering any more power than 300rwkw or going down the E85 path in the future then you may want to consider 740cc They are usually cheapest direct from Japan (RHD, Nengun) I got mine through Jessie Streeter and saved a few hundred $$$... Google his website and drop him an email, he is really good to deal with and plenty of SAU users have used his services FYI you need side-feed injectors for the RB25DET Good luck!

+1 WTF?

I think I can smell the shizenhousen from here!

+1 for the NPC steel billet lightened flywheel (6.8kg) I reckon it is magic! The engine is much more responsive; quicker to rev, easier to rev match on down shift and better to drive all around! TBH I haven't noticed any down side to it at all; motorway, carpark, around town and through the hills it is all good. If you have to replace the clutch anyway it is an option that is well worth considering... For less than the price of a Jim Berry full monty I got a clutch (10" HD Organic; good for 300+rwkw) and flywheel from NPC!

The Kaaz LSDs are noisey as fark during low speed cornering and put alot of stress on the rear subframe etc. Some guys claim to quieten them down with LSD friction modifier but that only detracts from the performance of the LSD and is IMO ghey... Kaaz LSDs are "off road" products designed for racing not daily driving it's as simple as that. After I did mine I also replaced the diff mounting bushes and installed alloy lock collars on the rear subframe instead of poly pineapples - a vast improvement in rear end shuddering, axle tramp and subframe movement! I can assure you that if you went back to a standard diff you would notice the difference - bigtime with 386HP! My Kaaz LSD improved my lap times by over 1 sec @ Sandown simply because I could get more power to the ground earlier on corner exit and therefore reach higher speeds on the straight etc. It is also much easier to control the car in a power over-steer (i.e. drift) situations and in general.

+1 Forget Pedders Sarge... find some people that actually know suspension well (most Pedders franchises do not have highly skilled/trained staff) I'll only make that mistake once... The clutch does sound like a reasonable suspect considering you were told it would shudder however other things to check would be: Engine mounts - Replace with NISMO items (40% stiffer) or similar Gearbox mount - Just replaced mine with a NISMO item ($140 Ebay) 40% stiffer Diff mount bushes - The front 2 (the usual suspects) can be easily replaced (just did mine with SuperPro poly bushes about $70 for 2) the rear 2 are press fit but aren't as prone to getting slogged out and rarely need replacing (Set of all 4 bushes from UAS for about $140) which is a "subframe out" job TBH if your car is over 10 years old and has more kw than standard and gets a bit of a hard time (i.e. most SAU Skylines!) these mounts are all likely to be in some state of disrepair Slogged out gearbox/engine mounts will cause the gear stick to move around when loading and unloading the drive train. Do you find yourself missing gears some times when you're gunning it? This is another common symptom of engine/gearbox mounts on their way out. Slogged diff mount bushes will cause axle tramp which in turn will cause your other bushes and mounts to deteriorate quicker If I was you I'd start at the back and work my way forward replacing these bushes/mounts which would be by far the easiest and cheapest option. Good luck

From my experience: Poly Pineapples = Easy to install; reasonable improvement (when set for minimum compliance not squat or drift) in axle tramp and handling with no extra NVH Alloy lock bushes = Easy to install; major improvement in handling, no axle tramp with a little more NVH Solid Alloy bushes = No compliance, you can't get any more solid than solid. NVH will be much worse than above but if it is a track car who gives a sh1t Go the solid alloy bushes for the ultimate drift/track solution but you do have to drop the entire rear subframe out of the vehicle and getting the old bushes out and the new ones in is a pretty big job (press fit). I'm running the alloy lock bushes and they are a big improvement over the poly pineapples, cheaper and just as easy to install. I have some (barely) used poly pineapples for sale ($50) if you want to try them out

Thanks for the feedback guys I don't know what the guy in the tyre shop was on about but as stated already the 255 is too wide for the 8" rin anyway... some good "expert" advice there Problem solved!

I got some good prices on Nitto NT-01's but the dealer said he had never fitted a 255/40 x 17 (only size available) to the front of an ECR33. I'm running 245/40 x 17 currently on 8 inch rims up front and can't really see a couple of mm making much difference but the tyres are being shipped from another part of the country so thought I'd put it out there to see if any else has done it and whether there were any issues with rubbing etc Any feedback would be much appreciated

I got some good prices on Nitto NT-01's but the dealer said he had never fitted a 255/40 x 17 (only size available) to the front of an ECR33. I'm running 245/40 x 17 currently on 8 inch rims up front and can't really see a couple of mm making much difference but the tyres are being shipped from another part of the country so thought I'd put it out there to see if any else has done it and whether there were any issues with rubbing etc Any feedback would be much appreciated

Mate if you can tell the difference between maximum squat or otherwise then you have much keener senses than me. I find the maximum compliance setting using only 4 pineapples to be the best on my car by a long way. I set it up for maximum squat and it didn't do... well... squat No noticeable improvement in traction but more axle tramp - no thanks P.S I've recently got rid of the poly pineapples and fitted the alloy lock rings which is a far superior solution. People say the NVH increases too much but it really is fark all, anyway it's a modded Skyline not a friggin limo! So anybody want to purchase a set of second hand, good condition pineapples? (4 only = max compliance)

I'm no expert, all I know is this: I recently had 2 well very respected tuners in Melbourne refuse to tune my Z32 Nistune ECU in my R33 because of on going problems with this Nistune solution. These problems clearly do not affect eveybody but there must be a enough of a percentage out there with unresolvable issues that these guys no longer want to touch them. I know one of the issues was around the difference in knock sensors between the Z32 and R33 causing wierd results. Another was an issue that Nistune had acknowledged and were working on resolving. I know there are many happy Nistune users out there (fark I did my homework and purchased one!) but I also respect what these tuners have to say. So what I'm getting at is addressing this line in the original post: "I have been told good things about nissan tune boards and stuff but i rather go full ECU."

It was while ago now but no holes to be drilled I don't think... all mounting holes for the FMIC are already there from the factory and unused Just cut/grind the reo bar and in my case I had to modify/cut the standard front bar removing the diffuser (again with the grinder but a very easy job) I bought some mesh from Autobarn (pretty standard stuff, comes in different colours and sizes) which is big enough to stop stones and rocks but not affect air flow. The black mesh also takes the shine off the FMIC making it a little more stealth (I may yet paint the FMIC matt black for more stealth). The mesh is cable tied to the front bar (I just drilled some holes in the bottom lip the bar and you can't see the ties unless you get under the car) at first this was to be a temporary measure but I haven't found another easy way of doing it and cable ties seem to do the trick quite well. As discussed there is some small compromise with the turn flows but I'm not losing any sleep about it. You would be doing a whole lot of cutting, drilling and farking around if you weren't going turn-flow! Good luck with the install

Nistune is OK but not for R33's as they only use either a modified Z32 or R32 ECU (not an R33 ECU) both of which entail work arounds, compromises and possible issues. I would definately recommend going for the full replacment ECU. FWIW I just got my PFC fitted and tuned ($1100 2nd hand incl hand controller ) and the car has never run better... very, very happy with it! It's a proven low cost option that everybody knows how to tune; you can even have a play yourself via the hand controller! However the PFC is getting a bit long in the tooth and some of these more modern ECU's have alot more flexibility and features... Happy hunting!

Nice result mate! Torques - the only thing you have to cut is the reo bar and even then not by much; a grinder, a hacksaw and 5 minutes of your time is all it will take. There is a good DIY thread on here that steps you through the install: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/288799-installing-return-flow-fmic/page__p__5605898__hl__intercooler__fromsearch__1#entry5605898 I spoke to my tuner about these turn flow FMICs last week... He reckoned the draw back was not so much that they "top out" it's just that the 180 degree turn in the pipework where it exits the cooler causes turbulence that in turn restricts flow so basically the turbo has to blow a little bit harder for the same result when compared with a non turn flow cooler. At the end of the day you wouldn't put one on a dedicated track car but most of us on here are more concerned about the boys in blue and keeping our engine bays looking as stock as possible. I'm happy to compromise a couple of kw's so I don't have to hack up my engine bay and have some pipe work running over the top of the fan or go for an after market manifold... All sure-fire ways to get the cops to look a little bit harder or reach for the dreaded canary

Just fitted an NPC 10", organic, heavy duty clutch (good for up to 300rwkw) and it is a thing of beauty. It has a very nice progressive feel to it that the stock clutch didn't (it was likely on it's last legs when replaced) If the pedal is heavier than stock then not by any amount that I can notice (see above). The best thing is that it was only half the price of a JB clutch! In fact I got a steel billet lightened flywheel (also very nice) and the clutch from NPC (plus half the labour costs to install it) for less than the cost of a JB clutch (no exchange required). I'm sure Jims clutches are good but fark me they are expensive! (way too much $$ for me to justify the spend) I am only running 244rwkw so don't need the full monty even though that's what I was being "up-sold" to...

Thread update - Fitted a 6.8kg Revsolution steel billet flywheel from NPC (very nice bit of kit) and I love it! The engine is more responsive and easier to drive... I haven't found any downside to it at all. In fact after driving around town, on the motorway and through the twisty stuff IMO it is better then the stock item in every respect. Definately a recommended mod for the few hundred $$$ that it costs and I was replacing the clutch anyway.