Checkbuzz

I just got an email from Trent @ Chequered and he is definately not interested in doing the Z32 ECUs in the R33 any more. Which pisses me off big time as I purchased the bloody thing on his advice through someone that he put me in touch with So the big question is if Trent (who was the supposed master of these things) doesn't want to touch them any longer are they just a crap solution??? I do not want to throw good money after bad and end up in a world of pain and frustration. What now???

Buuuuuumpity

There definately seems to be a big gap in market here for someone to exploit (I am unfortunately not that talented!) Someone could make a killing if they could fabricate these in numbers for a decent price!

You are dreaming mate...

P.S. $280 with Tomei plug brand new: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373058-parts-sale-n1-headlights-injectors-z32-afm/ Do yourself a favour

Pfff do not be telling people that fake Z32 AFMs are any good. They are not. We are talking about a extremely sensitive and critical component of the fuel system here... "she'll be right" doesn't cut it! It's not just about "peak power" there are many other factors at play here not least of which is consistency & reliability Of course if it's just for your fully sik drift car with lots of go-fast stickers on the side then go for it!

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution. I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb! I may as well get it all done at once...

Make an offer!

@star33 - As you say "cheap quick fix" but not good enough from what I've read (see Hypergear thread) as they still restrict airflow at high power levels and I am looking for 250+rwkw @Hekt1k - Thanks mate I have pinged ScottyNM35 @Honaldo - This may end up being the only viable option... How much did it cost you and where did you get it done?

Hi all I know this topic has been covered but after much searching and reading I still have a question for those in the know: Are the good quality silicon intake pipes (UAS, JJR, Samco) any good in high boost/horsepower applcations (i.e. do they suck shut)? I'm looking at these because getting a custom intake made seems expensive, sleeving the stock one is only half a fix and the only alloy ones around (Performance-Wise) don't seem to be a very good fit (I have an alloy CAI and need the pod to sit exactly where it does now). Failing this does anyone know where I can get a decent, factory-fit, alloy induction pipe? Thanks

TURBO SOLD

Yes you are 100% correct - you got me on the wind chill factor mate... it is non existent for inanimate objects I'll tell you what I do know about Fahrenheit though; the temps in f are different when you look at them in the context of this discussion; 180f = 82.2c , 210f = 98.9c a difference of 16.7c (30f) which I think you'll agree is quite significant. Those temperature calculator thingys on the internet don't work that bit out for you... lol BTW You'll love Canada; the people are great, they love to party and of course the snow is just awesome! There are some top snowboarding spots to check out around Fernie BC (Three Sisters) where I'm originally from.

TURBO SOLD pending final payment.

For sale new and used R33 parts, located in SE Melbourne will ship anywhere: Hi Flow OP6 turbo. $600 + shipping Turbo is used and of unknown origin but came off a vehicle in good working order. It has been inspected (by Stao from Hypergear) and it is in good condition (minimal shaft play) and should support up to 250rwkw. It is no longer required as I have just purchased a brand new GT-RS Apexi pod filter. $50 + shipping. Good condition. These pods are pretty much good for the life of the vehicle. Whiteline pineapples. $75 + shipping. Good Condition only 18months old (10000kms). I have gone for alloy bushes now. Bottom 4 bushes only (for maximum compliance = best setting) The top 2 cut bushes (for adjusting squat) are not included and were 100% useless anyway. Brand new D-Project poly steering rack bushes (suit S13, S14, S15, R32, R33, R34, A31, Z32) $50 + shipping A must for any track car to tighten up the steering.

I said 30f not c ...and radiator temperatures can be below ambient due to air flow cooling effect. Germany is a really nice place I really like their bier - chilled of course! I'm from Canada so have seen a bit of cold weather myself.

^^^ +1 ditch the old rotors and buy the real thing they are not that expensive. You would only notice the advantage of the slotting on the track (if that) and if you are out there you certainly don't want to be on used, re-slotted OEM rotors that's for sure!

According to the blurb they are RDA rotors so if that is the case then they will be of decent quality for street use (not for motor sport!)

Oh i know how a thermostat works thanks... The problem with your logic is it doesn't account for the fact that the thermostat actually starts opening at a lower temperature than the optimal running temperature of the engine (usually about 30f lower) therefore if the radiator is too big for the system it will never get up to that optimal temperature. That is why people in colder climates have to use a radiator cover (usually a piece of cardboard) on an otherwise healthy cooling system to reduce airflow through the radiator (i.e. reduce it's efficiency) in cold weather so the engine gets up to normal operating temperature.

Thanks for that Einstein... but the thermostat can only regulate the flow of coolant. If the coolant gets hot enough to open the thermostat (i.e. when it is closed and there is no coolant flowing) and then just gets a rush of cold coolant it will close again and if the radiator is over kill for the engine it will never get up to optimum operating temperature especially on cold days and this is not good for your engine.

I'm running one of these exact same JJR radiators in my 200rwkw R33 no problems at all and it sees a lot of track work often on very hot days! As stated it has a machined neck with very heavy welding - I would take this over the OEM top tank or neck in a heartbeat Fitment was good including the OEM shroud and it is definately cooling waaaaay better than the stock radiator... Once it was fitted it highlighted the fact that the thermostat wasn't sealing properly becasue I couldn't get the engine up to temperature any more! From what I have read the quality of these radiators has improved over the years; there were a few problems back in the day but not so many now. If it leaks or over heats then clearly you would do one of the following: -Realise that your cooling problem is not due to the radiator that you just replaced -Send it back to JJR for a replacement that doesn't leak P.S Careful with the 53mm radiators I've heard stories of them being too much cooling for the street or track unless you are running big numbers.

Ring UAS back and get one of their kits for around $200... I have one of their aluminium CAI's that fits with the standard piping used for my FMIC (they also do holes for custom piping on request) and it is a nice bit of kit; easy to install and looks great. Remove the rubber seals from the under side of the bonnet (above the left head light) and around the back of the head light unit where the front opening of the CAI faces. This will ensure plenty of cool air gets in from the front of the vehicle. Seal off the edges on the hot side with some foam rubber from Clarks and Bob's your mothers brother.

+1 for the Blitz Great quality product and fit... awesome price too!

I've got a Kaaz 1.5 way and it is just fantastic on the track - improved my lap times by nearly 2 sec over the old "single-legging" viscous LSD On the road it is a loud and clunky mofo! It sounds like the ar$e is about to drop to of the car, it chirps the tyres and used to actually pull and twist the rear sub frame... I have the alloy rear sub frame bushes now which helps hold it all together solidly but sends even more noise into the cabin! There is a reason why these diff's aren't original equipment in road cars they are for track cars only Any friction modifiers will be decreasing the performance and life of the diff... harden up and deal with it I say

I'm glad you listed mechanic as an interest and not your occupation 2 pads per caliper or wheel pretty much like every other car on the planet... Please use search function or google they are your friend!

Nistune - using modded Z32 ECU rewired for the R33 (different firing order); this is a commonly used solution these days for R33's and is by far the least expensive option. It won't do away with the AFM (again the Z32 AFM is a common upgrade) but keeps many factory features such VCT, cold start, knock sensor etc They can be purchased, installed and tuned for aorund the $1k mark all up... most after market ECU's will cost at least that just to purchase (2nd hand!). Good luck