Jump to content
SAU Community

Checkbuzz

Members
  • Posts

    359
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Checkbuzz

  1. Ignoring what the previous guys says about his alleged walbro pump issues.. if you are not chasing huge kw go the Walbro pump upgrade. They are a direct factory fit - no stuffing around & good value for money, just make sure you get the real thing from a reputable dealer.
  2. Not sure whether you knew but jasma is not a brand, it is a japanese standard for exhausts and a big part of that standard is the noise level so basically they are all pretty quiet and restrictive.
  3. Mate I've got a full 3" X-Force cannon system and apart from some fitment issues with the entire system (i.e. it didn't fit and has been back twice to get re-fitted properly!) it is still pretty good bang-for-buck. The cannon muffler is a nice piece of stainless steel that looks and sounds the biz. I think they are about 93db when new which is loud enough to keep me happy but not so loud as to attract the wrong type of attention Their hi-flow cats are good value for low-mid range horse power applications too. Bascially you can't go wrong for the money and it sounds way better than the jasma crap that was on there previously.
  4. Damn fat fingers
  5. +1 - I just fitted a Blitz SE return flow front mount; only minor trimming of the reo bar to fit and excellent quality product. Great bang for buck and will be suitable for your described usage
  6. Have you searched on these forums mate? I've read some pretty in depth "How-to" threads with photo's for this job on here
  7. Stao has a hell of a lot of cred around here and is very generous with his knowledge and time helping people on these forums. He is also an expert on turbo's with valid point and you are just an annoying, rude NOBODY.
  8. I guarantee you can save yourself some money shopping around mate... the aforementioned dealer isn't exactly known for providing good value for money. I saved $5k on their prices and got a much better condition R33 from a small dealer in Dandenong - 3.5 years I ago got a stock, totally mint 97 GTST Series 2 with 70k on it for $15k + on roads, they can't still be worth that much! As for R33 or R34 I guess it's matter of personal taste - I like the series 2 R33's, I find the R34 a bit too boxy and I don't like the tail lights or front bar/indicators compared with the R33 S2. The R34 does have an uprated RB25DET with more power and refinements and a much nicer interior. When all is said and done there isn't much in it either way and it all boils down to personal taste and budget.
  9. Rear adjustable camber arms - SOLD!
  10. Yes - coil overs and sway bars do different jobs and upgraded sways will complement your upgraded coil overs very nicely.
  11. The KU31 is definitely a better road tyre than the KU36 no argument. I didn't mention it but the KU36 are also very noisy i.e. so much whining that it sounds like the diff is going to blow on the highway!!! But neither are as good as say the Falken FK452 which is in a different league altogether to the Kumho's. If your wallet can stretch that far the FK452 is probably the best bang-for-buck "premium" performance tyre out there. I also run FK452's and can highly recommend them. I see you are in Melbourne so I suggest you give Tyre Power Hawthorn a call, I just purchased some FK452's off them at an unbelievable price! These guys know their shit and will beat any price... I wish I'd found them before now
  12. Sorry mate I have plenty of interest in the arms at the moment. The price on the bushes is not negotiable - they are a bargain at $30!
  13. Hey mate I run 8" front and 9" rear on the track and it is a great set up for an ECR33. On the road I run 8.5" front and 10.5" rear more for looks than anything and I doubt you would notice the difference on the track - save yourself some $$$ on new rims and spend it on tyres. FYI - I bought G-max drift 6 rims (forged & only 8kg!) brand new for the track for about $1300 (Bob Jane) As for tyres i use Kumho KU36 for track days, so not a proper R spec tyre but good bang for buck and my lap times surprise many of the drivers on R spec tyres. They may not have the quite same grip level as R spec but they can take the punsihment and are also literally half the price (can also be driven on the road - although not ideal in the wet) There are plenty of tyre threads on SAU where you can pick good info on track tyres. Enjoy. cheers
  14. No, No and No It doesn't have 3 settings or speeds. It doesn't help you park - Honda's are for geriatrics that's why they get park assist (if you can't park your Skyline i suggest u "upgrade" to a Honda). It does not turn the rear wheels when you r at a standstill anyone who says they can see that happening is on drugs! HICAS is high speed (roughly 70kph+ depending on conditions) steering assistance that is advantageous under most road conditions i.e. with average drivers driving at average speeds. Once you start driving the car at 90%+ (i.e. on the track) HICAS is counter productive and will make the car feel like it has a mind of it's own and cost you lap time. This is not opinion but a fact - show me one serious track going Skyline that uses HICAS and I'll show you someone who doesn't know how a car should handle. So to summarise: HICAS on road = good HICAS on track = bad Cheers
  15. As already stated the KU36 is a great high performance dry weather/track day tyre but they are crap when they are cold and when it is wet (i.e. they are a crap road tyre). The KU31 is more of an all weather high performance street tyre with less tyre noise, better wet grip and wear (i.e. they are a crap track tyre). I use the Ku36 for the track and the Ku31 for the street they are both great bang-for-buck for their respective purposes
  16. Hey mate A 20mm adj rear sway bar is plenty on a street going R33. You will regret going and bigger than that as you will be lifting the inside wheel and loosing traction which is OK for drifting I guess but basically crap for everything else. Also no worries fitting a bigger front sway bar without doing the same on the rear it will be a massive improvement. In fact some guys go back to stock rear sway on the track for traction reasons listed above. Bigger is not always better with sway bars. Chuck that front one on and enjoy!
  17. Indicator clusters sold! Pix of rear arms as requested, they aren't branded, I'm open to offers.
  18. SOLD (to me) Would love to know more about it if anyone has any ideas on what type of Hi-Flow it is?
  19. It looks like the indicator clusters are sold pending payment today. SMIC is also pending payment but deal is going slooowly... Anyone want some cheap rear camber adjustable arms?
  20. Hey mate Thanks for the offer but I have just purchased an R34 Hi Flow for similar money! Good luck with the sale Cheers
  21. I got one thing to say - get a Walbro 255 l/hr. I just purchased one brand new for $130 i.e. half the price of a Bosch! It comes with a kit to fit the car (R33 etc) fits straight in - no cutting, no hose clamps. Cheap and easy - these Walbro pumps are good quality items and will do the job unless you are chasing mega-kw
  22. The title says it all lads... Not too worried about shaft play etc (as long as the housings aren't damaged) as I will be getting this high flowed. Prefer Melbourne pick up SMS 0402213701
  23. The R33 ECU is a real beatch as it can't be "Nistuned" Toshi remaps ($500 + dyno to check AFRs) are OK but unless you live in Sydney and can get him to tune them in real time on a dyno they will be a "best guess" tune for your set up. If you do any further mods you will have to send it back to Toshi for another remap ($500?). Don't get me wrong there are plenty of happy Toshi customers out there and he has done many of these remaps. The Z32 ECU ($150-$300 from a wrecker) can be easily modified to work in an R33 and can take the Nistume daughter board ($300 fitted). (see www.nistune.com) This set up (I purchased a z32 ECU modded for an R33 with Nistune for $300) can be fine tuned in real time by many reputable tuners around the country (in Melbourne see Chequered tuning (ex Status tuning)) and once set up can be easily re-tuned to accommodate further mods. The initial tune may cost $600 but any re-tunes will likely be much less. I guess it all depends how much money you want to spend and how much flexibility you want - for me I think Nistune is the way to go but I may have thought differently if I lived in Sydney and was sure that I wasn't going to do more mods down the track (FYI - once you start it is addictive and hard to stop!!!) Cheers
  24. Hey mate I'm interested in the turbo is it off a R33 or R34 (i.e. does it have the OP6 housing)? What condition is it in? Any pics? Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...