Checkbuzz

Good and valid points Roy but I didn't come down in the last shower and you haven't read through this thread... As previously stated: The hub has been polished to within an inch of its life, has no play and the runout is safely with tolerance at <0.02mm When I measure and mark the high point on the bad rotor and then rotate it 180 degrees or so on the hub the high point on the rotor remains in the same spot The good rotor from the left side measures the same when fitted to the right side of the vehicle (<0.05mm compared with 0.25mm for the faulty rotor) If it is the hub causing these problems then it has somehow escaped the laws of physics that have controlled our entire universe for the past 13.5 billion years since the big bang and may now be residing in some parallel universe... as you say very curious; but I don't want to get into quantum physics, parallel universes and string theory here! Anyway I took delivery of a new replacement disk rotor today will be fitting it tonight. I do not expect any further problems.

Good luck getting 9.5 inch rims on the front of an ECR33... 8.5 is about is big as you can go usually.

UPDATE on my K Sport issue: The same faulty disk was returned to me (not replaced as had been previously dicussed!) for the second time yesterday and I already knew it was going to be a fail...and I was right... I got home, fitted the disk, same result: excessive runout This time I finally got to speak to someone from K Sport Aus who could speak good english and things progressed a little better... After 3 or 4 phone calls last night and today Frank has finally bitten the bullet and is couriering me down a brand new disk rotor today. It was long, it was very painful but I finally seem to have a result! In fairness to K Sport they reckon they had it balanced and all within tolerance on their test bench (which they had videoed but I didn't watch it) but without a doubt it wasn't right on the vehicle which at the end of the day is what counts. The left hand side disk fitted perfectly and was well within the runout tolerance when fitted on the right hand side where i have been experiencing issues with this other disk so I have no doubt at all that there was something wrong with that thing! You can chose to ignore measuring runout etc when you install your disks (any disks not just K Sport) and you may be OK. But if you don't and they are out of tolerance it could cost you a hell of a lot more down the track than the $90 for the dial indicator and stand i.e. new set of disks. I have learnt a sh1t load about brakes along the way that's for sure!

Hi Guys I have been installing a K Sport 330mm 8 pot kit on my ECR33 and I would like to add a couple of points that may save you money and headaches down the road: 1. Buy yourself a dial indicator with a magnetic base stand ($90 Repco) and check the new disk rotor for run out (should be <0.05mm) and oscillation (should be <0.15) once you have cleaned the hub and fitted it to the car using wheels nuts and about 30NM of torque (Google anything you don't know here) 2. If run out is out of tolerance rotate the disk by one wheel stud, refit and measure (mark original position first) often run out can be brought into tolerance by simply rotating the disk until you find the spot where run out is at it's lowest. 3. To fix any remaining excessive run out you must clean the hub face up until it is shiny using a wire brush (preferably pneumatic) and fine emery paper. The hub cannot be too clean; as you can imagine it only takes a tiny bit of rust scale to put the edge of the disk out by 50 microns!!! (i.e. 0.05mm) 4. If you can't get it within tolerance check hub play (<0.05mm) and run out (<0.02mm) replace hub or wheel bearing if out of tolerance 5. If you do not do this be prepared to replace your disks after about 5000kms due to DVT caused by the excessive run out (symptom = pulsating brake pedal and/or brake shudder) 6. Both of these measurements if not within tolerance can also cause brake shudder and/or vibration at high speed 7. Excessive oscillation can be sometimes brought within tolerance by wrapping plumbers tape around the centre of the hub and refitting the disk These tolerances, tests and remedies are documented in the Nissan work shop manual and/or K Sport supporting doco. The tolerances are tiny but quite critical to on going good brake performance

Thanks for the comments guys There do appear to be alot of happy K Sport customers out there and I wouldn't have purchased this kit if I had found out otherwise in my (rather extensive) research. BTW I found plenty of people suffering issues with Brembo, AP and Alcon brakes as well - so let's be clear here - no product is perfect! The problems that the Evo guy has in the link above are precisely the sort of issues you get when you have too much run out; he is suffering from major DVT (among other things!) As for the caliper flex I would like to see a comparison with other manufacturers calipers - on its own I'm not sure what this measurement means. The calipers shown are also do not appear to be the same design that I have recieved from K Sport which look better engineered (e.g. 8 bolts holding them together). Check out the pic in this link (http://www.ksportusa...kits/splash.jpg), the pix from page 1 of this thread (http://www.skylinesa...initive-review/) and then the vids in the Evo link - they do not appear to be the same caliper design, nor do the D2 disks look like the same design as you can also see. Taking this info into account the big question still unanswered is - are these brake kits (D2, G4, K sport) all the same kit from the same factory? They are certainly not identical in appearance/design so it seems very doubtful that they are exactly the same product from the same factory. Problem Update: JustJap were fairly helpful but when their "mechanic" told me I was complaining about nothing and to just put them on the car, drive it and see what happens (insisting they will warranty any issues down the track - yeh right!) I knew it was time to take matters into my own hands. BTW JustJap were clear that they didn't think they had any resposibility here and were just doing me a favour by helping me out with returns to the vendor etc. This was an out of the box faulty part so I find this attitude from them a little bit rich. Anyway I have contacted K Sport Australia (A and B Motorsport, Sydney) directly and spoken to Frank (the manager) he said they sent my disk back to me the first time because they checked it and it was "balanced"!? I told him (as I told his staff when they called me about the problem) that I was concerned about the excessive run out not the balance and that they are not the same thing i.e. you could concievably have a disk with excessive run out that is still perfectly balanced. They have organised a courier who has just picked up the disk for the second time... If this doesn't work I have half a mind to personally deliver the disk - airmail through their shop front window!

+1 my BCs are still going strong after 12+ months and plenty of track work

There are a couple of problems with this course of action: 1. Nobody including K Sport will ever provide warranty service or replacement of used disk rotors especially when used for motor sport 2. DVT can take thousands of km's and months to rear it's ugly head; it is not going to be apparent straight away 3. K Sport include an entire brochure in their kit explaining in great detail how DVT and vibration can occur and just how critical it is to get the run out below 0.05mm (this is clearly a common problem with these brake kits or they wouldn't have included this info) I really don't think that it is too much to ask that this rotor (like the other 3 that I fiitted at the same time) meet the manufacturers (and Nissans) strict tolerances Google "disk run out" and check out the plethroa of information that backs up my stance and the issues that can occur down the track if run out is not within acceptable tolerance

Hi Guys I thought would share my horrible experience with K Sport brakes with you all so you don't make the same mistakes... I did alot of research on line and thought that the K Sports looked like good bang for buck... WRONG!!! I guess all the research in world can't beat real life experience and I am very disappointed with K Sport. At the end of the day you only get what you pay for and when it comes to K Sport that means a poor quality product and zero customer service/warranty support even when purchasing through a large retailer such as JustJap One of the brake rotors supplied had a run out at least 0.1mm (Nissan and K sport both specify 0.05mm is the maximum allowable run out) so after spending hours removing studs and cleaning up the hub assembly asssuming the problem must be with my car I measured the hub which was with in tolerance <0.02mm, marked the high point on the disk rotor, turned it 180 degrees only to find that the high point was still the high point i.e. it was the disk that was out of tolerance! OK everybody makes mistakes right (although I'd argue that brake component manufacturers do not really have this luxury) so I contact JustJap who were very helpful and organisde a courier pick up of the disk and it's return to K Sport. K Sport call me and I give them a run down of the problem, they say they wil look at it and see what they can do... A few days later the very same faulty disk rotor that I sent them is returned with; no paper work or any other repair information and the same run out problem! I am out of pocket $2K, my car has been off the road for over a month and I am f**king pissed off!!! Worse both JustJap and K Sport are telling me to just fit the disk rotor and "see how it goes" which is total BS; I have the Nissan work shop manual and alot of supporting documentation from K Sport that insist there will be DVT and vibration issues if the rotors are not within tolerance. The other K Sport rotor (<0.04mm) and the new DBA4000 rears (<0.035) are all comfortably within this tolerence. So K Sport brake products (and coilovers from what I hear) appear to be of generally poor quality and the customer/warranty service is non existent. Be warned and do not make the same mistake I did!

Well I guess all the research in world can't beat real life experience and I am very disappointed with K Sport. At the end of the day you only get what you pay for and when it comes to K Sport that means a poor quality product and zero customer service/warranty support even when purchasing through a large retailer such as JustJap One of the brake rotors supplied had a run out at least 0.1mm (Nissan and K sport both specify 0.05mm is the maximum allowable run out) so after spending hours removing studs and cleaning up the hub assembly asssuming the problem must be with my car I measured the hub which was with in tolerance <0.02mm, marked the high point on the disk rotor, turned it 180 degrees only to find that the high point was still the high point i.e. it was the disk that was out of tolerance! OK everybody makes mistakes right (although I'd argue that brake component manufacturers do not really have this luxury) so I contact JustJap who are very helpful and organise a courier pick up of the disk and it's return to K Sport. K Sport call me and I give them a run down of the problem, they say they wil look at it and see what they can do... A few days later the very same faulty disk rotor that I sent them is returned with; no paper work or any other repair information and the same run out problem! I am out of pocket $2K, my car has been off the road for over a month and I am f**king pissed off!!!

Pix???

That is a mind blowing read ! Sticky?

Well apart from chatter on UK websites from brake specialists they do a pretty convincing job in the brochure that came in the box; including photo's of their CNC mills, brake balancing and durability machines etc at their 13000 square meter factory in Taiwan where they "engineer and manufacture high performance shock absorbers and brake systems"... So no hard evidence I guess, just lots of very convincing stuff. I can't comment on the other brands except to say that K Sport seem to rule in the UK and US where D2/G4 don't appear to be as popular. Either way my new K Sport kit was delivered today and it certainly looks very well engineered & packaged! I'm happy with what I paid for the kit which was considerably less then the on-line advertised price I've also got some slotted DBA4000's, Hawk pads and new seal kit for the rears plus RB74 pads for the 8 pots so braking should be well and truly sorted! FYI - Some one I heard of got the rear K Sport kit as well as front but ended up having to use a brake bias valve to stop the rears locking up all the time so they may be a bit over kill. I got quoted $4500 at one place for a K Sport full 330mm front and rear kit which keeps the factory handbrake set up but I think it's a bit too much. With the bigger front rotors etc the rears tend to do even less work. Stock size rear rotors, calipers and decent pads should cover it for most street/track purposes at a fraction of the cost. Good luck with the GB dude.

+1 for KSport - I have done my research on these puppies and just ordered the 8 pot 330mm kit from JustJap for a very sharp price indeed! (Cheaper than their on-line advertised price)

I have done a bit of research on these Taiwanese big brake kits and it appears that they are not all the same... although they have the same origin (an old AP design) At least in the case of K Sport they are an independent company that make a lot of budget motor sport parts and has put in a lot of their own R & D into these brake kits. In doing so they have developed a better performing and higher quality product than the others. In the UK and Europe heaps of people use these K Sport big brake kits on serious track cars and rave about them... even after swapping over from Brembo's! They are also supplied there and in the US by very reputable brake shops who would not be risking their reputation by selling crap brakes. I have just ordered the 8 pot, 330mm kit from JustJap at a very sharp price; in fact only a couple of hundred more than a 330mm, 2 piece, rotor upgrade kit using OEM calipers! Apparently the pads they come with are pretty useless but they are a standard pad size used by AP calipers and I have sourced some decent ones locally already. Will provide some feedback once I've hit the track but bang-for-buck these K Sports cannot be beat.

+ 1 for the Walbro pumps dude (gss342). Save yourself some coin and just get one. Most of the hate is from a batch of dodgy Chinese knock-offs that were going around on Ebay for a while years ago... People are too lazy to find out the truth for themselves so just keep parroting the same tired old lines about how crap they are. To be honest if you buy anything on Ebay you've got no one to blame but yourself - buyer beware! If you buy one from a local reputable dealer you will get the real thing, they come with fitting kits for many models and are a factory perfect fit. I fitted one in half an hour into my ECR33 and it was a perfect fit - no dicking around. I track this car often with less than quarter of a tank and have never had any "fuel pickup issues". Although i'll lay money there are plenty of ametuer Bosch installs around that will have i.e. pump held on by dodgy hose clamp? It is not a noisey pump and you cannot hear it when the engine is running only when it primes. I have also installed a relay to give the Walbro a full 14V/15A feed from the battery which increases the flow from about 190lph to 230lph+ @ 65psi (see below). Unless you are chasing really big numbers that is a shit load of fuel mate; these things are rated at up to 600HP (same rating as the Bosch 040 which costs more and requires cutom fitting) Hope this helps

Got any pix of the seat mate?

It's a steel bar. If you could tell the difference between a Cusco and Whiteline item of the same diameter I'd be very bloody surprised and you'd be kidding yourself big-time! There is nothing wrong with the Whiteline kit and if you are paying more $$$ for your metal bar it is simply for a brand name which is not worth a pinch of shit on the track or anywhere else in the real world.

Most of the kit was sourced from Whiteline Australia and is still available, SK's thread even gives you the part numbers FFS! You'll just need to get yourselves some half decent coilovers... BC coil overs are good bang-for-buck if you are on a buget. Seriously how hard is it to work out for yourself?

I only use AMSOIL 10-40W and their oil filter as well. AMSOIL pretty much beats all others in comparative testing (google it) and I purchase it from a lubrication specialist who stocks nothing else. There are also plenty of other great alternatives out there such as Motul as already mentioned here. Previously I used Magnatec which made this lubrication specialist shudder - it is not a great product at all. In fact Castrol oils have been getting a pretty bad rap all around lately so buyer beware! If you have been using it and you change oils you really need to flush the engine out properly first as it leaves lots of nasty deposits that can block oil galleries etc. Further to this it is only semi-synthetic and fully synthetic oils are much better performing. Buying cheap oil is living in a false economy especially if you are doing track days or a lot of hard driving. If you can't afford the good oil then you can't really afford to run a high performance track car... How much is a new turbo or rebuilt engine compared with $90/5000kms for some decent oil? 10-40W is good for Australian weather conditions but check with a local specialist if you live in colder climes as it may not be appropriate.

SOLD

Actually I have 2 of them (brand new) and one is still for sale (don't ask!)

U have a PM

I'm going to answer my own question now that I have worked out the details for anyone else who may be interested: The front diff mounting bushes are very easy to replace and I got some Super-Pro ones for a really good price. The rear diff mounting bushes are a press fit however they are not known to wear and/or cause problems often so therefore rarely ever require replacing. I was originally looking at a bush kit that contained all 4 bushes but in the end saved myself some money and just replace the fronts.

Oh yeh you are real f@#king funny... So the full workshop chassis manual is available for free on line is it? That's news to me... I have downloaded the engine manual for free previously but never seen the chassis manual available. You do know the difference don't you? This manual was purchased from jpnz.co.nz where it takes at least 80 people to front up with $$$ before they even think about creating the manual I guess all 81+ of us don't know how to google or use isohunt to search for the freebies... Actually I believe a good number of the original buyers were organised here on the SAU forums. Here's an idea if you don't want to buy it; f@#k off and leave your useless, uninformed, noob comments elsewhere...

I have a full work shop chassis manual for sale right now on the "For Sale - Car parts and accessories" forum PM me if interested