Checkbuzz

Bump

R33 Apexi Super Suction Intake This cast alloy intake is a work of art! Plus it sounds freaking awesome! Excellent condition, comes with quality silicone joiner/reducer and t-bolt clamps ready to bolt up and go $275 R33 X-Force bell mouth dump pipe Secondary bung welded in for optional wide-band o2 sensor Very good condition, cheap upgrade - instant power gains over stock! $100 R33 S2 Stock turbo Comes with actuator Great condition (100k), minimal shaft play. Perfect for a hi-flow! $150 Prefer pick up from SE Melbourne Txt me on: 0402213701

Interested in the oil cooler. Has it been fitted and/or used? Details please.

Bit of a thread hijack but while we're talking about it... Here is how I see it (and please correct me where I'm wrong): HKS rate the GT-RS at 400HP on a RB25DET. They recommend it for drifting and racing applications on the same webpage. (This is not the same rating as a Garrett GT2871R which is rated at 380HP on a 3l which is about 320HP on a 2.5l) My GT-RS was producing 245rwkw on 18psi and a conservative tune with regard to AFR's and timing (i.e. a track tune). At 15psi it was only producing 215rwkw. By my reckoning 245rwkw is about 300kw or 400HP at the flywheel so roughly in line with the manufacturers rating for this "race approved" turbo It cost me $2700 direct from Japan and I fully expected to be able to use all 400HP. If I only wanted 215rwkw I could have saved myself a shitload of money and got a hi-flow for about $1200 (and don't I wish I'd gone done this path now!) Further to this I have since found 5 others in VIC alone that have experienced these exact same problems with the GT-RS/RB25 combo which smells f**king fishy to me. I guess either all of our tuners must not know what they are doing or HKS are full of it.

I've been shopping around for an oil cooler all week and this is an absolute bargain... Gonna pick me up one of these on Sunday. Thanks for the heads up

You aren't wrong about the GT-RS being poorly matched to an RB25, it might be OK for the street but for track work it is seriously out of it's league and way too small. I've just upgraded to a GT3076R from the GT-RS because I kept warping exhaust manifolds and turbo flanges due to the excessive heat caused by the restriction the turbine poses and 10 minutes of track work. This heat was also causing detonation. In the process of trying to work out what the cause of this problem was my tuner and I have found a total of 6 people (Melbourne locals only so god knows how many are there nationwide?) running the RB25/GT-RS combo experiencing exactly the same problems (i.e. warping manifolds and flanges + detonation). A couple of experienced turbo engineers have also backed up these experiences with their own. It's strange how everyone recommends the GT-RS as the ideal turbo for the RB25 when the facts really don't seem to back it up. HKS make big claims for this turbo on a RB25 and in this case they are just kidding themselves and everyone else... so much for the famed HKS R&D! Moving on. After reading this thread and a few others and taking advice from some "real world" turbo experts I have opted for the GT3076R 52T (0.82 A/R) with the 4" port shrouded compressor housing (seriously why wouldn't you? If you already have a 3" intake simply buy a silicone 3"-4" reducer job done), custom split dump & front pipes and a custom 3"-4" intake. The car is currently in the shop, the turbo is fitted, the exhaust fabrication has been completed and I'm hoping it will be on the dyno this week. I'm getting excited about the results and very interested to see just how linear and progressive the power delivery is compared with the GT-RS. I must say a big thanks to Disco, Lithium and others for imparting their extensive knowledge and advice on turbo's in these forums. I have learnt a great deal and hopefully this time around I've made a much better, properly informed decision on a turbo that is fit for purpose! P.S. With the GT-RS producing 245rwkw (18psi) the only way to get decent traction in low gears was with semi-slicks, a mechanical LSD and a well sorted suspension package.

Thanks mate... I've just spent an hour on the phone talking GT30 options You are now the 3rd person I've heard from who has experienced this problem with the HKS GT-RS (was it RB25?rwkw?) The plot thickens...

Whatever dude... My last post was an update not a cry for help, although I do value most opinions and feedback. What am I supposed to do listen to a bunch of keyboard mechanics (and critics) over my experienced tuner and ATP? Do you really think you know more about it than these guys? The only person who is qualified to comment here appears to back the "wrong turbo for the job" theory and I would like to hear more from Daniel on the matter if he would kindly oblige.

Hi Daniel are you agreeing that the turbo could be the problem here? Have you seen or heard of similar cases? I would really value your opinion here I picked the turbo based on everybody telling me that "it was the best all-round turbo for the RB25...". "you can't go wrong..." etc As well as dyno results, peoples experiences and the fact that HKS sell it with a full bolt on kit for an RB25.

But they are not the same so your argument is null and void. How can this be the turbo's fault? From what I've been told: Small turbo = restriction Restriction = heat build up and heat spots Heat build up/spots = warped manifolds and flanges It doesn't seem like a massive stretch to me...

I don't buy into this theory as not many cars I see at the track have flex joints and this problem is not common. Also the exhaust is not "hanging" from the turbo, it is appropriately mounted to the vehicle. I'm not blaming the turbo, ATP are based on previous experience with this exact problem and turbo (random detonation and all). I have also met someone who experienced the same on going problem with a GTRS on an RB25 at the track and they never resolved it using flex joints etc The detonation is random and only occurs when the engine is hot i.e. at the track. It is not reproducible on a dyno or normal road run, only under continuous heavy load at the track. The detontation appears to be closely related to the high EGT's and not the tune itself.

Thanks for all the comments guys OK the car has been in the shop so here's an update on the problem: The timing is ok and the engine is not running lean It appears that the GT-RS turbo is simply too small for an RB25 having it's neck wringed around a track for 10+ minutes at a time - even on a conservative tune. The turbine wheel/housing is too small and restrictive causing high back pressure, heat and random detonation (plus the physical damage) I have to say that I'm pretty disappointed with the HKS... but maybe i was expecting too much from it. Anyway I'm currently leaning towards a GT3071R 56T or GT3076R 52T (0.82a/r internal gate) Hopefully I'll fix this problem without creating another one!

I went with JustJap coil packs the first time = FAIL after 18 months (crap product and total waste of money) The replacement Split fires still going great! I would only go for OEM or Split Fire based on my and other peoples experiences. As for the cheaper options it seems to be one of those parts where you really do only get what you pay for

Hi Daniel Prepare to be extremely surprised then, because that is exactly what has happened... twice now! You can see it quite clearly in this photo: http://i1260.photobu...arpedFlange.jpg The warping on the 4 bolt flange is severe; it was bowed out nearly 5mm in the middle!!! My mechanic used the same gaskets he uses on far more serious machines than mine without issue ditto for the lock nuts. I find it difficult to believe that this severe problem could be caused by gaskets, studs or nuts. Assuming we get to the bottom of what is causing this problem my next biggy is what to do for a replacement housing? Do you know if a modified Garret housing will do the job and what the likely costs of purchasing the housing and getting it machined would be? From your signature you appear to be someone who knows far more about this stuff than i do... Any assistance would be much appreciated

Thanks for all the feed back. The manifold is stock The studs could be made from "unobtainium" and they aren't going to stop the manifold and turbo warping like this; The studs have actually been pulled closer together on the manifold and turbo by the warping so much so that even after machining the bolt holes in the gasket had to be enlarged and even though the machined surfaces are matched the studs have moved so much that both items now have to be replaced together i.e. a new turbo housing wouldn't fit the manifold any longer or visa versa! Both manifold and turbo have been off the vehicle, machined and replaced with new gaskets and lock nuts etc - they warped again within one track day. The 4 bolt flange on the turbo was warped about 5mm across the face!!! Believe me I am not making this up and I have a very experienced machanic/tuner doing all of this work. I am running a conservative tune for the track and the car does not run lean - I have a wide-band fitted just to make sure. The vehicle was on the dyno for a check the day the machined turbo and manifold were reinstalled however I'm not sure if EGT's have been checked The timing is not that retarded maybe 17 degrees at the lowest point The car is making around 250rwkw which is about right for a GT-RS and not so long ago was dyno'ed with the exhust off to check for restrictions and it made little difference The flex pipe is an idea but i really can't imagine how the manifold and turbo would warp before the mild steel exhaust pipe under load further to this the stock turbo was fine and had done plenty of track days with the same exhaust system etc nothing else was changed in this area. So you can see my frustration guys I've spent good $$$ on an HKS turbo, had the work done by a good and respected tuner and mechanic, had everything checked on the dyno every step of the way, spent the $$$, done it all properly and yet here I am... That's modding and racing cars for you I guess! It's going back in the shop for analysis soom with EGT's at the top of the list but if the EGT's were that high (we are talking sustained 1000c+ EGT's) as my tuner said I wouldn't have a turbo left i.e. the blades would have melted on the turbine AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!

Hi Guys I have a serious on going problem that is costing me $$$ and doing my friggin head in! 9 months fitted a brand new HKS GT-RS to my RB25DET with all the supporting mods. It was a direct replacement utilising the existing exhaust and manifold so no other physical changes in this area. New lock nuts, plates and gaskets were used through out. After a few track days the car seemed to be down on power and response I took it to the mechanic and there was a blown gasket between exhaust manifold and turbo. I replaced the gasket myself not realising that the turbo flange was slightly warped at the time. A couple of track days later and the gasket is again leaking like a sieve, the distortion of the turbo flange can be clearly seen. Back to the mechanic who removes the manifold and turbo housing and has both machined to suit as both items were badly warped. One track day later and there is a leak around the gasket again and I can see the distortion where the 2 surfaces meet I am really pissed off because I spent big $$$ on the GT-RS and all I've had is grief so far and i wish I'd just gone the high flow route now. The main reason being that HKS do not have spare housings for this turbo (thanks HKS!) and the housing has to be replaced now with a modified Garret item (more money). The exhaust manifold also has to be replaced now but I do not want to do it until I know what the problem is and how to stop it reoccurring The exhaust and engine mounts and movement is all ok so it doesn't appear to be a physical cause unless the HKS housing was made of tin cans. The car is not running lean but I am starting to suspect high EGT's being the culprit. Has anyone seen this type of issue before? Any idea what could be causing this and how to test it and resolve the problem? Anyone selling a rear housing for a HKS GT-RS? Any help would be much appreciated

Looking awesome! Thanks Mate

Thanks guys... That is a very nice looking piece of kit! It looks like my solution is just around the corner 0

As the title says I'm after a high capacity diff housing for an ECR33... anyone?

Hi Guys My Kaaz LSD is heating up and losing oil out the breather when worked hard. I'm looking for a high capacity diff housing to keep it cool but can't find anything... Any ideas where I can get one from? Or any other simple cooling solutions? The greddy diff housing floating around are listed for GTRs only. There was also someone making them in the UK but nobody has stock any longer. Cheers

+1 for the NPC organic A very streetable clutch that has had no problems holding 300+kw's in a car that spends a lot of time on the track! They are also 100% brand new and will not break the bank

For starters I would take it to somewhere that actually knows about suspension i.e. not most Pedders franchises Anyone who thinks that replacing the power steering rack, rack ends and tie rod ends might fix it is a grade A monkey! If you are in Melbourne try Advantage suspension in Moorabin BTW Tramlining is pretty common in cars with wide tyres on bad roads and some tyres are worse than others e.g. semi slicks are much worse than street tyres I'd be interested to see your wheel alignment/wheel/tyre specs

Alloy. The alloy bushes will lock the old bushes into the correct position which will fix your problem if it is related to the mis-alignment or degradation of the old bushes The poly pineapples don't lock the old bushes into place they just apply pressure to them and to be honest don't really acheive much at all. I got a nice set of alloy bushes off fleabay for $50 (cheaper than poly pineapples) and they can be easliy fitted in an hour (there are some good DIY threads in that section) Good luck with it.

Deatschwerks DW300? Solved my fueling problems and is as quiet as a mouse http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-pumps/dw300-in-tank-fuel-pump http://forums.evolutionm.net/automotosports-illinois/566110-bosch-044-aeromotive-stealth-340-deatschwerks-dw300-walbro-255lph-fuel-pump-test.html I'm not sure if it will flow enough for 430rwkw though especially on ethanol... that is some serious mumbo!

I'm not trolling just sharing my experience. I read the thread and I'm well aware of the PerfomanceLub website also thank you. I certainly wasn't calling everyone muppets just those that appear to be offering expert advice on lubricants when they clearly don't have a clue (there are numerous examples in this thread which I'm sure I don't need to point out to you). My appologies for any offence caused to those that don't fall into this category.