The Bogan

Baffles are the way to go if you can, steel wool will need to be cleaned which would be a lot harder than throwing in some diesel in a baffled one and shaking. I've heared about putting the wool in a stocking but I'm not sure how it will hold up against heat and hydrocarbons. With 2 Baffles the flow will change direction about 4 or 5 times which should scrub a fair bit of oil. A cheap can is false savings if for a extra hundred or so you could get one which actually has some engineering behind it and not just made to look shiny with a sticker and make some company lots of money selling them to the public.

Baffles, volume and flow.

Just get a new account at the commonwealth, that's what I did.

Yeah wire transfer, 5 minutes in the bank, easy as.

The can must not be a restriction either, the return hose/filter must be as big if not bigger than the inlet side of the can.

That makes my eyes bleed

Better still, how much would a 35 be worth in 40 odd years. You cannot compare the 2 really, one is awesome high performance that gives you a fat, the other is a 35.

But in 15 yrs when the 35 is worth 40k:..............

The GTT will be worth $10,000 in a couple of years, just like 33s are worth $7000 now. Food for though. For $15,000 you should be able to get a 300 + killerwasp 33 with reco motor and lots of fruit, or even a 34 with some mumbo, their out there.

$50 of VHT crinkle paint = a mans motor, I save the bling for the girls, LOL.

I'm now thinking about putting all my running gear in a stock looking sedan,might have to Google and see how much they weigh.

Superlapandotherskidtypeofevents nationals ?

$1200

OK, I see where tor coming from.

Reasoning on this statement ?

From a novice point of view I thought sprints was initially built around road cars, those days are gone I assume and its whatever is the quickest being from dollars or talent will "win" the day. I understand some of the gripes people have, mine is people over/undertaking me mid corner in there race car when I'm in my daily. Rules are awesome, but rarely followed. My class would be "short fat men with more money than talent", I'm guessing that would be a big class.

Sounds like money well spent.

Alot of imports have dings in there rails from fork lifts moving them around in J. Better of getting a car with few good mods, for 8k now days you should be able to get a sweet 33, a turbo timer is useless and a defect in NSW. R34 GTT rims are win.

manly Listen See in Thesaurus adjective manlier, manliest having the qualities generally regarded as those that a man should have; virile; strong, brave, resolute, honorable, etc. fit for a man; masculine: manly sports Fatz

I would save the big dollar sump for the 26, just get a fitting or 2 welded to your stock 25 sump at the most, me I never had a problem with my stock 25 sump and stock oil pump on a stock motor, my problems started when I tried to run a Tomie pump with stock restrictors. And you can have some mild cams in there as the VCT is tunable to a point, mine does anyway.

I use 10w 40 whatever semi synth is on special and change it before every track day or 5000k, it never gets to 5000k though, only spend money on things you will be using with your new motor though, a sump vent is good, reason being alot of heavy plant use then to reduce sump pressure which in turns allows the engine to rev easier as its not trying to push against positive pressure. Mine runs return to sump catch can, head drain on the hot side, vent to the cold side and a remote restricter set up which is a story unto itself. As long as you can control the flow to the head you should be fine, me if I was you, with your Tomei pump I would keep VCT?, block the front and use 1 x 1mm restrictor at the rear like in the Sydney kid thread. I would fill it 1 ltr over full, and then check the can regularly for oil. I wouldnt do any other mods as you will not be using any of the parts on a 26 build. Then trash it till our new motor is ready.

2.7.1 Strength and Thickness The thickness, of non-intrusion panels, with gel coat removed, must be at least 3.5mm. Bonnets and guards are examples of non-intrusion panels The strength and thickness of structural components such as floorpans and bodies that incorporate seatbelt anchorages, door hinges and latches etc., must be certified by a signatory. The fixings for replacement fibreglass panels should have the same positions and must have at least the same strength as the fixings used for the original panels. A combination of steel and neoprene washers of a minimum 20mm diameter should be used with all fixings. Seat and seatbelt anchorages, door hinges and latches must only be affixed to fibreglass panels, floorpans or bodies that have been reinforced to take the loads such components are capable of generating both in normal use and in a crash. 4.3.2 Fibreglass and Other Composite Replacement Panels Original bolt-on metal bonnets and mudguards for pre 1971 (ADR 10) vehicles may be replaced with fibreglass or other composite panels that comply with sub-section 2.7, providing the modification does not increase the rigidity of the front structure of the vehicle and the collapsibility of the steering column on ADR 10 vehicle is not compromised. The catches and/or the design of the replacement bonnet must prevent it from being propelled through the windscreen into the cabin area in the event of a frontal collision. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP6_Section_LH_Body_and_Chassis_01Jan2011_v3.pdf http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx Links kindly supplied by Zebra

I haven't seen a race car without one, not that I've seen very many, I assume that if wasn't need they wouldn't have one. I liked the bit about bonnet vents, that is the reason I got the style I did.

Restrictors, that is all. edit; and oil cooler as it will be used for new motor, FWIW i never had a problem till I had a new motor put in which had a Tomei pump, even with head drains and a return to sump on the catch can. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1931/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_111696/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_107759/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_108646/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_109789/article.html and for flow http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2160/article.html