The Bogan

Good luck with that, if DBA rotors are good enough for alot of race teams then there good enough for me, my DBA 4000s have been thrashed for 3 yrs now and are still good. Shop smart, Shop S Mart

Major service, then spend 6 months working ot what you want the car for i.e streeter/drags/track before you waste you money on mods that are useless or will need to be upgraded again, work out how much power you want and where you want that power. First mod though would be upgrade brakes, best tyres yo can afford, and maybe some sway bars, theres $2000 to start with. Remember that you lose most of (90%) the money you put into it when its time to sell it, food for thought.

Car looks good to me, and as for boxer motors Porsche seem to do well with them, Subaru seem to go like the blazes with some poundage in them to, LOL at the haters, RWD to, awesome. RWDFTMFW. Again, LOL at the haters.

God said "its about 100mm from the face that bolts to the disc hat to the outside lip", he would have been more helpful but said I've been a "bad boy" and that's all the info he will give me. They are 2 piece rims. I got the wheels from Peter at ADVAN performance a couple of years ago, they were on his GRACER car at Superlap 2009. Hope that helps.

I picked 3 to 65, for the street you want early responce I feel, mine isnt coming on till 4.5 which is fine on the track were you can keep it on song but for the street mine isnt ideal, a stock SS with get me of the line and unlike the track on the street I cannot then blow by him when I hit 3rd, unless your a knob like the young blokes around here who think the road is their own private race track. No offence Im just adding a little vent.

4 x Volk Racing rims with all the plates and center caps, 17 x 9 with 4 x Dunlop Formula R DO1J 265/40R 17 and 2 x Kumho V70A 235/40R 17. Still one or two track days left in the tyres, they have been stored indoors and had some grip put on them prior to my last outing, only used on the car at track days. The offset is god knows, they fit under my GTS-T with rolled guards and some camber, you need at least -2 deg on the back and front to get inside the guards of a R33 GTS-T. Will swap for MINT 17 x 8 Nissan wheels i.e 350Z or simular, maybe even R32 GTR rims (Im trying to keep it looking standardish) Or $650 Pick up and/or inspect in Sydney.

I'm in for next year for sure.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1370/article.html

Use the stock CAI, how much power you making ? You only need to get a quality filter if your not making big power, you can modify the internal of the stock box to make it flow better to, I'll try and dig up a feature on it.

Buy the best tyres you can afford, they are the only thing in contact with the road, I would rather spend more money on quality tyres than try and save money by buying pov spec. And as long as your not running stupid camber/alignment settings they will last a while anyway. Shop smart, shop S Mart.

I'm not a fan of slipping the clutch to much, you can cook the clutch and hot spot the fly wheel, I would be more inclined to just get a good take off with minimal clutch slipping and low rpm ensuring the car is not laboring. It may be usefully to get him to find the friction point buy releasing the clutch pedal slowly with the hand brake on but the locking device depressed, let him feel the point when the engine speed reduces to show there is slight loading then gradually release the hand brake and with a slight increase in engine rpm release the clutch fully and move off.

I've taught heaps of people on manuals for their Ls, you really need a large open area to start them off in, a few witches hats or boxs, first and second gear stuff, lots off reversing and emergency stops, then move into a closed of area or a low traffic area. I find it good to have them do some reading on basic mechanics so the understand what their actions are actually doing, at work we get them to service the vehicles and go over every nut and bolt, cable and wire. When on the road we also get them to tell us what they are doing when driving, i.e Course; correct position on the road to negotiate the turn/stop ect Mirrors and signals; looking for others, signal intentions Speed; correct road speed to corner safely Gears and mirrors; correct gear and road speed for that gear, look for others Evasive action; stopping, cornering, obstacles Acceleration; regard road surface and traffic conditions And a lot off emergency braking on a wet and dry road, tell them that you are going to get them to do a emergency stop by yelling, stop stop stop, get them up to about 50 and the stop them, make sure they don't lock the brakes, if it doesn't have ABS get them to pump the pedal to avoid lock up. Also skids, I kid you not , in a safe area where there is no one around or nothing to hit get them to do figure 8s or dirt or grass so they work out understeer, oversteer,counter steering, only if safe to do so, private land is good as the police will more than likely not be impressed. Have fun and be safe.

260DET, we need everyone in every sort of car at these events, the thing is to keep the price down we need everyone, if I could afford to have a "race car" I would and I think I would still do sprints as all I'm after is a blast around the track with my times the only thing I would be competing against, I don't think I have the skill or inclination to rub paint. Common sense and following some rules is all that is needed for everyone to have a super happy fun slide time, I've seen some dangerous stuff which could have been avoided in the short time I've been playing this game, which will and does scare people away from attending these events, which in the long run will damage the sport, in my humble and mostly uneducated opinion. Mark "all the gear with no idea"Robbo

But I wanna be a seagull and eat chupps.

I've got a hecktic stubbie cooler, swap ya for some chasers and chopped springs.

I build roads for a living, and I am also a driving instructor, as I stated before its legal and within regulations, bit like driving on a flooded road and hitting the gutter, if the road was flooded you should drive to the conditions, which in this case would be traveling at a slow enough speed that if you hit a obstacle you would be traveling slow enough to do minimal damage, i.e damage to front bar, but as you have done damage to the front and rear tyre they will say you were traveling to fast for the conditions, you have stated the road was flooded, so by rights you should have been negotiating the road at walking pace. This is a big problem with licensing, they teach people to drive in good conditions, but what about floods, emergency stops, and other adverse conditions, you need to be able to read the road in all conditions, saying that you didn't see it doesn't cut the mustard. Have you driven this road before ? I'm not taking the piss, I have to investigate things like this for work, as would someone from the council.

Which it seams leaves poor punters with no budget and a street regoed car running with stripped out race cars who don't mind a bit of rubbing, I'm all for run what you brung but if I'm slowing you down then go up a group, don't ride on my arse, undertake or overtake me mid corner, most of the sprints I've done are with a great bunch of guys who listen to the drivers brief, sadly though there are 1 or 2 that think they are Fangio and when the blood starts to boil they don't think of the other people. I'm slow and will ways be slow but I love giving it a go, like most other people no sheep stations are involved when I'm out there. Don't get me wrong, everyone in anything is good to go as long as rules are followed and common courtesy is used. There is nothing I love more than watching a well sorted race car go for gold, while my daily is cooling in the pits. For the people who want to "race" do door to door, for the others ill see you at the track, ill be the guy slowing down on the straight to let you pass. I do admit the rules for classes are a bit iffy and not really adhered to at club level sprints from what I've seen. Bloody rain.

So its there for a good reason.

Double unbroken lines with cats eyes, all they will probably say is you were to far to the right hand side of the road and crossed the lines. To hit it you would have had to be on or over the lines anyway. By the law of signage and street furniture its marked correctly. Sorry.

All the gear but with no idea

Put a GTR badge on it, and a SPOON sticker, and a RALLYART sticker, and a Chevy bow tie as well. Sorry, almost forgot, put a big MOPAR sticker on the back window, at least a extra 50 ft/lb of torque there. You are also running the V10 from the Dodge Viper I take it ?

Hecktic

Awesome run, from black top to dirt then back again, the road conditions and traction levels changed about 300 times, with rock wall on one side and cliffs on the other, man, it takes a massive amount of balls and a massive amount of talent. Thanks for the post, I was on edge the whole time, and in awe.

In my experience a car from a yard has 5k added to it compared to private sales price, lots of people buy card and cannot keep up maintainance, servicing and rego, these are the cars you look at and low ball them, they need the money, you've got the money, its a match made in heaven. A lot of the trouble comes from people thinking they can get what they paid for it, it rarely will happen, no matter what people think in the end its only a car which is getting cheaper by the day. Shop smart, shop S Mart.

Would depend on a few things,how much flow you have, if the single outlet is causing a restriction