The Bogan

$600

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Ive had my wheel aligments done about 15 to 20 times there over the last 3-4 yrs, LOL. Ive had no problems with them, just be sure to tell them what you want it for, a couple of guys there do drifting and some trackdays, the boss owns a Rambler Gremlin drag car. Go have a chat to them.

I've got the JJ ones. Cost me $55 at JAX in Liverpool each time I do my wheel alignment before track days I get 3.5 front and 2.5 rear, then returned to street setting after. They need to remove my front wheels and get it up on a hoist to adjust the front, all up takes them about 45 minutes max, nothing about bushes, a couple of big spanners is all that is needed. I'm wanting adjustable castor arms ? now.

You can do this now, as far as I'm aware with Shannons at least, BUT, you will pay for it in your premiums. When I was getting comp on mine it was a option to insure it for whatever I thought was a fair replacement cost, and mine is only a GTS T, the car does need to be inspected though. In saying that, if the car only sees occasional weekend use or club days then maybe this will lower the premiums a bit. Maybe.

Vacuum line to the gate?

AWSOMENESS, good luck.

PM me if you've got one, only interested in one in Sydney though as I wish to inspect before purchase. Thanks.

Fair enough about the "alleged" offence, BUT, if he is found guilty I vote for "CRUSH IT". ; )

Sorry dunnyboy for my typos, though I do stand by my claims that if you speed you deserve all that you get. And if my typos are enough to distract you from the main story of a guy getting done for doing 100 in a 40 zone then so be it. Or was it just easier to pick a random fault in my side of the conversation than to express your point of view on the subject .

Go speak to Yavus at UNIGROUP, he has a guy who does them, BUT, with the new regulations in place, be prepared to do some changes, all in all it is well worth it though.

PIE and CAKE.

My dignity and licence are both fine thankyou very much, how's yours going.

Open your eyes and look at the signs, or isnt your brain connected to your brain, I cannot believe the mentality of some people, have you never seen kids riding bikes or skateboards in a "industrial area", trucks loading and unloading, or people out for a walk, Im happy when idiots who think they can do what they want get booked. Or are you to cool and hecktic to obey the law. Its simple really, unless you yourself are simple.

PISStol Ped, Remember that when the next kid gets killed by someone doing 100 in a 40 zone.

Was there a speed limit sign ? if there was how hard is it to do the speed limit, f**king self important morons, see a sign, do what it says, simple if you have at least 1 brain cell. If you want to go fast you should do motorsports, but most people who speed on the streets are crap drivers anyway and wouldnt last 3 laps before offing their car. CRUSH IT. Waits for reply from HECKTIC DUDE who knows better........................................................

I drive like a Granny on the street, rarely sees 4000rpm, although a dude in a Honda thingie YO was wanting to run me down the Cumberland Hwy, f**king dick wad, my wheel nuts have more torque than his motor.

GTSTRB25/30T04ZRWDFTMFW x 11TY Im wrapped, and no thats all she got, the injectors were at 85% so didnt push anymore, list is done, part one will start soon to get more fuel and better air flow then latter in the year E85 flex fuel thingie and associated stuffs. ID2000, sounds like a computer game, LOL

Start slow man, when Im getting back into training I do walk/run between telegraph poles, slow run and brisk walking, try throwing in some push ups and sit ups in before the walking phase, aim for at least 10 x 10 sets of each over the time your out, you want to keep it up for 45minutes at least for cardio and a max time of 45 minutes for weight training. As for your heart rate, a good test is that if you can have a conversation, albeit with some huffing and puffing, you are going OK, BUT, if you cannot get your words out back off a bit. Always carry a water bottle to, keep away from any energy drinks as they are full of sugar and salt and if you have a good diet you do not need it. After you have eaten dont train for at least 1 hr minimum but have some good carbs within 1/2 a hour of training. Most important thing is to start slow and work up your intensity, first month should be taken easy and always record your times and achievements, ie 5klm walk run in 38min with 10 x 10 push ups, 8 x 10 sit ups, I do this style on Mon Wend Fri with squats and deadlifts on Tue and bench and pulldowns on Thurs, again recording your reps and weight used . There is 11ty million different fitness programs you can do, this is what I find works for me after a spell. I do 10 x 10 on all weight exersices as I fell this works well for me, remember no more than 45min training. Dont waste your money on the Protien powders and pills and stuff they sell, good food is better and costs less.

All restricters in the engine are blocked, a feed it tapped into the side of the head which picks up the oil galleries, hence why now it takes 5 minutes to swap out restricters. Over engineering much.

As soon as the tune is checked, I fitted a bigger cooler and hard pipes.

Yes mate, one is fitted to both sides of the head into the large rear galleries, the inlet side goes to the high pressure side/cold side of the sump (vent) and the other goes to the hot side (drain). The cam covers have the standard vents to the can both with separate lines and the rear also has vents like the 26 covers with internal baffles that also have separate lines to the can. The can is a 3ltr baffled job returning to the hot side of the sump via a 3/4 inch hose, the can has 1 x 3/4 inch and 1 x 1 inch filters to release any blow by pressure (which isn't a lot) and the sump is extended with a windage tray. LOL. BRAIN SORE NOW. Hence why my brain is hurting.

The motor was even rebuilt again to see if the tolerances were within specs, they were fine, wish I went a dry sump from the get go now, or even a N1 oil pump, shifts are at 7200rpm so a N1 would have been fine. All returns have separate fitting on the sump. Motor is a hydraulic 25/30.

I've had massive oil issues since my rebuild, even with head drains, sump return on the can, drilled out returns, 2 x 1mm and a 1mm on the VCT was to much flow, went to 1 x 1mm for the head and 1mm for the VCT which was fine at eastern creek by overflowed a bit at Wakie, now I'm at 0.8mm at the head and 0.8 at the VCT which at this stage hasn't been tested at the track. The TOMEI pump was causing issues in mine as it was pumping 120 psi at around 6000 rpm, a regulator was installed to lower the flow down to about 90psi now. It got to the stage where a external feed for the head was tapped in to supply the oil as taking the head off every time was a PITA timeline and cost wise to play with the restricters. I'm using 10w 40 oil. This has made my brain hurt bad over the last year.