The Bogan

Purchased one of those brake bleeders that connects to my air compressor....... "where have you been all my life" After putting it up on stands and removing the wheels a full brake flush took no more than 5 minutes, nice Then....whilst it was up there..... Ended up going OCD and gave at undercarriage a full power wash, sprayed everything with silicone spray, and then wiped it all down, now all the bits that you cannot see look so shiny and purdy....LOL The interior then copped a full detail with the bissell spot cleaner and steamer, the interior looked pretty good before I started, but the manky water that the bissell sucked out proved other wise, but it has been 12 months since the bissell last seen any action inside the car The engine bay is next, well tomorrow, for a detail, followed by exterior washing and waxing all ready for a cruise down to Goulburn on Thursday for my daughters attestation at the police academy on Friday My daughter has asked me to wear my service dress, and Jackie has grabbed a fancy outfit for the occasion, the car will be on point like it is on a military style "boots and saddle parade".....so..... Weather warning: you just know it is going to be pissing down in the Southern Tablelands on Thursday and Friday, and they will probably want me to park in some unsealed carpark....LOL

Some clutch alignment tools are better than others Start to tighten down the plate until it just holds, then wobble the alignment tool to center the plate, clutch and flywheel, then tighten it up to spec If you just put the alignment tool in and tighten it up they sometimes don't align correctly because the plate is hanging a little low creating an angle

So, after alot of googling the vibration "may" be coming from the transmission "Apparently" vibrations in a 4l60e can happen at higher speeds if the line pressure isn't right, which is what's happing So, as the trans was due for a service in Jan 23 anyway, it has been booked in for the service at Craigs Automatics, while it's there they said they will look at the tune and see if they can "page up" the line pressure a bit in the old slush box Next run at WSID is hopefully 21 Dec 22

Yes, post logs To me logs are like women, I don't really understand much about them, but I do like looking at them

Tailshaft bushes and centre bearing was fine, torqued up all suspension and steering nuts and bolts under the car Need to go to the drags again and see how it goes at higher than Hwy speeds now (over 80mph) I will get all my wheels rebalanced first Hopefully around mid December

No scarier than driving a BMW still under warranty Buy one of these if you want a BMW Classics https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1979-bmw-6-series-635csi-e24-manual/SSE-AD-5690775?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-5690775 https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1989-bmw-3-series-320i-e30-manual/SSE-AD-12906574?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-12906574

Whether it is a highly modified car, or a standard BMW, you will always need a 2nd car or motorbike to get around in/on Don't BMW give OPAL card credits when you buy a new one anyway?

Like how I say every time I get a new car or bike that "I'm keeping this stock", or my other classic of "while we're in there" It's a disease, and modifications are the cure

Just dropped the car off to Autotech Engineering to diagnose the vibration I'm getting Hopefully just the tailshaft couplings or centre bearing They are going to stick it up on a hoist and have a good look and see if the couplings or bearings are showing wear, if they looks alright they will stick it on the dyno and try to replicate it and go from there It never happens on the street doing 110kph on the hwy, or when I'm giving it some beans, but, once the car hits around 140kph at the strip it starts to vibrate and increases all the way up to when I back off at the line doing 200kph

Needs build thread https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/

Maybe I should of got one of these before they commanded drug money https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1989-nissan-skyline-gts-hr31-manual/SSE-AD-7439094?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-7439094

Yes, "hipster", I am sure......of nothing

Nope, Skylines need to run stuff from J to keep the "ricer" look, like vented bonnets and neons, and 3 ft long exhaust tips Yes, I know and apologise for using the word ricer, but you cannot be a true bogan in a Skyline, as you cannot be a ricer in a Commodore Sort of like how rednecks drive American cars And fat old white guys with arthritis ride Harleys I'm still out on the classification of the R30-31 Skylines though, they are a sort of fusion blend of bogan and rice.....Bogice????.....Rigan????? I apologise to no one But love youse all

I get the Ultimate Car package I cannot complain about the service I've gotten

I've got the NRMA on speed dial mate Post pics in your build thread of the fun and/or carnage

I feel it is probably tail shaft, it is a body type shake over 80mph, and doesn't get better until under 80 mph I'm "thinking" tail shaft anyway, I've booked it in to get Autotech to get it up on a hoist and have a good look Some new rubber tailshaft coupling bushings and a new centre bearing on the 20 year old girl can't hurt anyway, so that may be a quick, relatively cheap, shot gun approach to start with anyway, justified in my mind as preventative maintenance Preventative maintenance stuff helps me sleep well at night

Currently sitting under my desk at work running on 240v, it holds my milk and lunch My milk tended to "evaporate" pretty quick in the kitchenette fridge that everyone has access to, so I needed to take measures

I'm keen, and if work and family align I'll be there with bells on It is a waypoint on one of my regular cruises, I always RTN home with an assortment of sweeties jammed in my Engel car fridge thingie that I purchased for just such occasions

I have found the embosed aluminium sheet works great The trick with thermal protection is to use a air gap between the heat source, the sheilding and body Without a air gap alot of heat will still transfer across Fabricating this stuff is childs play, just start with templates, measure once.....pay twice.....or something like that Carbuilders brand in pretty good, but, the stuff supercheap sell is basically the same so shop around https://www.carbuilders.com.au/underbody/heat-shields/

That's just the game we play mate I'm now looking at a little vibration at high RPM, maybe the 30 year old flogged out tail shaft? Smile and wave, smile and wave

275/40 17 MT's mate I'll have another play in a month or two and see if I can crack a 10.??? I actually forgot to soften up the rear suspension, and also forgot to press the performance button to let it rev out a little more Next time I'm going to set up my phone to record everything that is happening on the dash, like launch rpm, shift points, and what mph and gear I'm in at 12? Mph, I'm not sure if I was right at the top of 3rd or it changed into 4th at the line Also, remembering to hit the trac and performance buttons, loading up the trans a little, slowly "mashing the pedal" is all apparently to hard for me to do, LOL, but, at least I can only get better If was balls deep fun though

Maybe, maybe not, it always depends on the day Best time of the night? As many runs as you need? A bag of delicious hot cinnamon donuts for the victor? I'll run first then park up till needed, or, WSID closes, whichever comes first.....😜

Run 3, 20 psi Lots of oil downs More wheel spin I'm happy and am heading home

Run 2, tyres at 22 psi Better

Run one, tyres at 30 psi Did a skid but a little better 60'