The Bogan

+1 I made the mistake of buy a car before I really new what they were about, the STI, whilst it was new and comfy, it had no soul at all, and was slow, and reminded me of a Kia

Your stuff look much better than the original stuff I used on my tri-y headers, which didn't survive the swap, that did work OK though, but currently the headers are only ceramic coating, which, while it is meant to be the bees knees, it really only reduces temps by "not alot" and is more for protecting the mild steel pipes The new stuff is meant to maintain an "air gap" which "apparently" helps the insulation LOL In other news I'm taking it into Autotech next week for them to have a look at the RaceTCS, the spot where I want it, and the program "thingie" that is on my lap top computa which you would know as it is basically the same thing as your Racelogic I'm really keen to get this fitted

Yeap, hence why when I had the new headers fitted I had them ceramic coated and fitted at the exhaust shop The Thermotec sheet stuff I originally had on worked OK but not the best as it was only covering the front side of the primaries, this sleeve stuff covers the whole primary, typical to wrap, from the head down the primary for 600mm, and is 11ty times easier to install than wrap, and 100% better than the old sheet stuff The stuff did cost me $250 though, but, fitting this will result in alot less swear words and rage fits than removing the headers to wrap, or trying to wrap them installed (which I swore that I would never do again, a few times...). I am waiting for my new fender covers to arrive before I go balls deep fitting them though, I've got the paint to where I'm happy with it, the last thing I need is little scratches from my pantaloons dragging across the guards

Done few measures to work out how I'm going to fit the Thermotec Exhaust Jackets to my headers, the kit comes with 8 steel zip ties and 80 clips, enough sleeve to cover each primary 600mm(24"), thus having a clip every 75mm. I test fit one of the primaries, the sleeve covers my 1 7/8 primaries well, and when the clips are on (I didnt use the clips, I used some small stationary fold back clips), there isn't any gaps which is nice. Looks the goods so far. Just need time to do final fit up, and then take it for the typical "smokey drive" until the sleeves "cook off" the manufacturing residue like the normal heat wrap smoke show. The hard part is covering the No1 primary on the 4:1 headers that obviously is bolted to the car and ducks behind the other primaries, I assume I'll be laying on my back playing "elastic man" with my arms Also purchased a few electrical glands to run the RaceTCS wiring thru my firewall as I cannot see a neat and easy way to jam the cables through any existing "holes", 3 x 16mm glands to suit 5-10mm cable, the CAT6 cable is 5.5mm and the 2 ten cores are just on 9.5mm, tight enough to keep the moisture and engine bay fumes out. They will hopefully fit on the firewall on the passenger side without to much fuss, I've had a quick look, but there will be alot more looking before the 16mm holesaw gets to to play. I'm still waiting on a rough quote from Autotech for the actual termination into the PCM and ABS modules, whilst the actual job isn't rocket science I would prefer to "pay cash" to someone with more wiring skills and proper tools for the job than me. My wiring skills stop at buying the wiring, the Deutsch connectors, drilling the holes in the firewall, and fitting the glands, any more could result in fire, or possibly bay windows in the block. Why am I drill holes, I need to feed in 1 x CAT6 from the ABS module into the cabin, and 2 x 10 core, 1 x 10 core of 8 injector out, and 2 earths, and 1 for 8 injector in for the injector interceptor wiring and a power. I will be heading into Autotech to get approval for my cunning plan. So many coloured wires and tapping into to ABS and PCM makes Mark's head hurt......... I pay cash now..

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And along those lines, "turning off safety parameters is like shagging your Mrs sister, only to have your Mrs walk in the door, you may make a PD, or it may just explode"

I found these when I was looking into them Your is a BMW so basically exactly the same Tiff Needell runs them in his street car when acting the fool and when doing "driver training" Very LOL

I owned a 33, wished I got a 32, but think the 34 was the best looking Beauty is in the eye of the beholder Disclaimer: I like the look of my VX SS Commodore 🤯

I'll tell you how they work, when, if, they get here I got tracking so should have an idea soon

I give this more credit than the Advan Gracer "GTS4R?" Actually, I would rather own the 2500? than the GTS4R???

From my limited experience 4 point harnesses are rubbish I found a CG-Lock much better than a 4 point, pity they no longer make them, but, apparently there is a new version that doesn't chew the seatbelt, and works just as well, apparently linky > https://shoft.co.uk/ I've been meaning to try some, more for my posture on long drives as I tend to sink down on the seat (the lounge chair that is the seat in my VX SS Commodore) With the current exchange rate, 2 delivered to AU with tracking cost $65, but I keep umming and arring read: procrastinating The 2 cars I tried a 4 point on were my R33 with R34 GTR seats, and my MX5 with stock and a Sparco Sprint seat Even after drilling holes in the floor to mount the lower points in a few different spots I found that tightening up the shoulder straps pulled the lap sash up over my abdomen, and the standard seat in the MX5 had the harness falling of my shoulders....which was rubbish There are other issues with 4 points as well like submarining Well, that's my 2 cents anyway Stay safe

I new I seen something somewhere Build this, call it the long lost number 4

Have fun 😬 awaiting results

The Toyo R888R are great, I've only got them on the rear but I cannot hear any extra noise, traction is greatly improved over the Hankook RS4 I went for a cruise to Robertson pie shop via Mac pass and headed down Jamberoo way, the Toyo C1S on the front hold the old girl nice with the R88R giving great traction coming out the tight corners I went traditional, Jackie went the berrie special

The parts alone, from a very quick guestimation will be a huge bill, the car is a shell, and unless you are building a stripped out race car without a RB enfine, dash, interior, AC, window glass and powersteering the car will end up costing current GTR money, or more, and you end up only having a tacked together GTST Me, I would sell the panels and csll it quits Actually, that is exactly what the previous owner did, after stripping all the good bits, till all that was left was a chopped up shell Step back and have a good think before you drop a house deposit on it

It looks suspiciously like what they do cars that have been written off They strip everything, then cut the shell Does it have tags? What does your local rego joint say about it? Is it even able to be registered again?

1. Service everything, engine, transmission, brakes, diff, then... save more coin 2. Bush kit, sway bars, new shocks, good tyres, wheel alignment, then..... save more coin 3. 3.9 truetrac diff gears, then save more coin Doing NA "power mods" on a BF is a waste of money, but doing some basic handling mods makes then so much better than stock, well.....better than the wallowing wet sponge they are with standard rubber bushings and suspension

That's not a bonnet, this is a bonnet..... And this is a hood.... On topic: I hope you have big pockets, old Datsun parts go for drug money, and you need lots of parts

Remove ac condenser, replace with 42 volt alternator from ebay, anywhere from $300-$2500 Test and adjust My vote is high rpm reliability test of stock condenser What is the worse that could happen?????

I don't think your picking up what I'm putting down Does aircon cut at WOT on 99.9999% of cars yes But, does the HP loss from from a running aircon translate to enough to justify shutting it down when running a interchiller with the Dodge Demon I read that Dodge keep the compressor going, is it a "special" compressor, is it that the RPM limit is 6500rpm and their techs think the compressor can handle those revs, in the end the compressor works the same at idle or 6000rpm, faster does not equal colder In the end it's a difference of only 2000rpm for the Demons compressor The issue I see is spinning the compressor up high RPM, OEM seems to think 4500 rpm is fine, what fudge factor % was reduced for warranty Maybe the compressor can spin up to 8000rpm, whilst only loosing 5 hp??? Maybe the compressor explodes at 6000 rpm???? Maybe the compressor in a Dodge Demon is special Maybe I'm talking out my arse and have not remembered correctly and the Demon compressor shuts off lime every other one In the end Tesla use a electric motor to run their AC compressor, which runs at a constant speed, maybe you could jerry rig one of those puppies Electric power steering pumps are a common mod now, hell I want to fit one to my current beastie Maybe the next fad will be electric aircon compressors TL;DR I'm bored at work

Yeah but I read somewhere that the aircon does not drop out at WOT, although god knows where I read it, it was when I was researching interchillers But I don't believe they use a different compressor between the NA Dodge and the supercharged and interchilled version Again, not to sure, but maybe Dodge have found an answer to your particular conundrum Maybe not

Have a look at the Dodge Demon interchiller set up I "think" it keeps the A/C running at WOT In saying that, it was designed and sold as a 1/4 mile car and the rev limit is 6500

The state of "confusion"

Speed holes