sweetr33

ur stock oil pump will be fine for the power u have but i guess once u start making 300rwkw then oil pump should be considered, I would spend the extra money on an oil cooler, benifits from that are more than u know, i guess its not a matter of what hp is the various oil pumps limited to its more the point of how much u want to help ur engine?

my rb25 used to do the same, used to go good on about12-13psi but anymore like 14-15psi and it used to do excatly the same thing as urs, i found that if u progressively put ur foot down once past 4000rpm then it worked fine, but obviously u dont want to drive like that. Its some sort of boost cut, im sure if u ran 12psi then it would be fine and go good then. U can get a fuel cut defender which will rectify the problem but rather save the 200 bucks and put it towards ecu.

sounds like a fuel delivery problem

anyone else tell me anything about the turbo?s

Hey i am wondering if anyone could tell me info about the rx6 turbo. I have the opportunity to buy an apexi kit for cheap and was wondering how well this turbo will suit an RB25? It is a kit with apexi exhaust manifold, turbo, wategate, dump pip and oil line. Everything to bolt up to rb25, Has anyone had experience with these turbos or tell me any goods n bads? thanx. Oh and my power target is 300rwkw. It says RHX6 on cover of turbo

how did this go??? Any updates> Did u end up buying a TD06 or opting for something else?

i got an r33 gtr crank in my rb25 which has the larger oil pump drive to suit the n1 oil pump we put on also. If u get the earlier crank with the smaller drive it cost roughly 500 to machine to suit. If ur swapping whole engine for rb26 then i dont think u will have a drama

anyone know?>

oh and i forgot to mention that i have had my cams reground so cant get base circle measurement from them.....

Hey peoples, i am getting my head all prepped to go on my engine and the fella said he needs the stock camshaft base circle measurement and the cam spec now to set up the head properly, was wondering if anyone knows the stock cam specs so i can get this thing underway??

maybe there was another reason for ur hiflow to fail early, poor lubrication or cool down somewhere over its 18month life??

GCG Hiflow

its out of an r33 gtr, i know the car it came out of, he put the clutch in and spun a bearing 1800k's down the track, took the motor out put twin 2540's on it and also decided to upgrade to a triple plate so i got the hks twin plate. I dont know why his would be push type if they are normally pull types but im telling u that its a push type clutch but thanx for the info

well its out of a R343 gtr, but is a push type, i was more concerned about thickness of clutch. But i think it will work.

well i can tell u that u wont hit a water jacket coz on my rb25 head i have taken the lumps rite out of the exhaust side, wouldnt even know they used to be there now, just wondering if it was a bad thing to do or not. Who knows, guess i will find out

proengines dude what do u say about grinding away the lump in the exhaust port???

Hey a mate of mine has an R32 GTR and he wants to know that by removing the fuse inside the engine bay to make it rwd say for drift days and fun....... will it cause any damage to the electrics or anything in doing this?? I cant see it doing any damage but he doesnt want there to be any chance of it./

R33 GTST Series 1 Stock turbo Stock ECU Stock cooler Ran 12psi, Cat back 3 inch K&N pod made 160rwkw hoping to better than with new engine

anyone have an idea?

Hi, i am wondering if anyone can tell me if the clutch i have perchased, hks pro twin plate off a gtr will fit with no dramas into my r33 gtst, i have a gtr crank if that makes a difference, am abit paranoid about it, the fella said it will go in but i want confirmation on here too.

how does the mechanic think reliability will go with 250kw in Rb20? Just make sure u watch that air/fuel ratio and tune for rich(safe) and not power.

same thing happened to me dude, Although i got greedy and stupid and wound it up to 16psi for 2 weeks, went good on the street at night but at the drags it shit itself and i too had a lumpy arse skyline, Got home, removed plugs, had 30psi in number 5 cyl. Pulled engine out, removed head and seen the exhaust side of number 5 piston was melted. On 12psi it shouldnt have done the damage it has. Would have to be a mixture of things, poor fuel, blocked or restricted fuel filter or injector, too hotter spark plug, timing to advanced, engine temp higher due to faulty t/stat or loss of water, surely something else caused it, i ran around on 13psi with stock cooler and everything for along time before i upped the boost and too be honest, the car actually went better on 13psi than it did on any other boost level with stock gear. WHY did i crank it up?? Inexperience i guess was the main thing, i just wanted to go faster and i didnt think of the consequences, But anyway what i was getting at was i had to rebuild my engine also. The bottom end of my engine is done. My piston Kit included ROSS pistons, rings and gudgeon pin. 1600 was the price. AS for the Rb26 piston i dont think the pistons are the same, im using the Rb26 crank and rods and i think with the extra stroke of the crank the gudgeon pin has to be set higher in the piston whereas the rb25 gudgeon is lower, Dont quote me but this is what i think is the case. Good luck with it anyway.

thats nice power in a 180 and also nice power for a rb20. what more u got done????

well if ur running a tubular manifold then u are best matching the ports to the manifold. So yes if ur manifold runners are round then match head port to suit./

very true mate, ben told to clean off dags and leave alittle rough on inlet.