sweetr33

i wouldnt tamper with a genuine headgasket, i would leave it the way it is. the cooling system will doa fine job. upgrade to a gtr waterpump, i would imagin they bolt up to the rb20!!

ok so its seems to be a common problem for auto's then. U can shift gears manually there isnt any dramas, wouldnt be available from factory if it was damaging. Just dont nuetral-drive it, good skids but not good for box.

the auto changes gear at 6500 rpm. We think it may be the auto computer causing the flat spot too. I have disconnected the factory boost solenoid and connected my boost controller do u think that would have an effect? My r33 doesnt have a factory solenoid inplace and just had my boost controller so i did think there would be a drama. any thoughts?

hmm interesting, i dont know about gtr plug gaps but i wouldnt imagin they would be as small as .4 standard. i was thinking more like .8-1.0 standard.

maybe the cap cant hold enough pressure in the system and the waterpump is cavitating?

ok the engine will idle up when cold and slow idle back to normal once war anyway thats normal. The car would have been stalling coz the setting on the bov may have been to soft or something hard to say unless ya have a look at it. the tapping noise may be the lifters, all u can do is either bare the noise, run a slighty thicker oil or replace them, but find out for sure what it is first. good luck, i wouldn t be worried, sometimes an exhaust leak can appear to be a ticking sound to.

WEll i just put a set of new ngk spark plugs and a greddy manual boostcontroller on a mates r33 and the car runs fine until u nail it. 1st gear goes well, i only set it to 10psi to steer clear of complications, but once it shifts into 2nd there is a flat spot until it gets to 6000rpm then it goes well and same in 3rd gear. It feels like the car is hesitating but power iis still rather progressive but just not pulling till 6000. Any ideas?Oh and the car is dead stock besides a can back system.

sorry for the ignorance but what car?

sheesh thats still running hot. seems strange, what heat range is that nismo thermostat? It runs hotter with the thermostat in? Does the engine stutter for a moment when u first start it after its been sitting for awhile? almost like its missing but then comes good seconds later? check all hoses for kinks or harsh bends.

black oil in coolant is lookin scary(headgasket), But overheating would occur if the water was being sucked into the cylinders and being drained so to speak so no water is left in the cooling system. To me it sounds like the thermostat. If it overheats whilst ur cruising along(over 40kph) then u can rule out the fan/s. Does it overheat whilst idling and the fan going? Did u retain some sort of air conditioning system? Sometimes running a car without a thermostat at all can cause it to overheat aswell as the water/coolant is flowing to quickly for heat tranfer to occur. But in other cases it works fine. I would be replacing the thermostat as ur first bet. Check water pump belt tension also, sometimes if the belt is not gripping the pulley then obviously the waterpump cannot circulate the water fast enough. A number of other not so thought about things can cause overheating *dragging brakes *timing problem *fuel mixture to lean *and other things Are u still running stock ecu or aftermarket? Ample air flow to radiator(only an issue if it doesnt overheat whilst idling with the fan/s on)

hahaha yeah fully, i think i was browsing another thread and this came up down the bottom of the page as a related article.

the td06 range uses a 3 bolts flange pattern which requires the trust manifold or athe flange to be modified on other manifolds, i have seen some mix's with t3/t4 flanges. The td06 is very harsh in its power delivery yes but if u can get the traction it would be awesome, between 1-1.2 bar would be fine

the turbo isnt the hard part to find its the manifolds that are the hard ones. where is everyone getting em from?

oh ok, i only went for 256's and kept the vct. but im using a hiflow stocker not a tdo6 so it doesnt affect me for now i guess,

all depends on sizing, 8cm,10cm,14cm etc. Whether its a 19c,20g,25g etc. lots of factors but generally a 20g would be nice on an rb20.

what drop in cams are we talking? would 256 duration be enough to make 300kw at rears u think or need bigger like 264/272?

yeah buster would be a good one to comment coz he had one on his RB25. With the rite support items u could easily reach 400rwhp.

Coolant should be changed every 2 years, im a mechanic and ive never seen coolant last 5 years. Cooling system flushes cost $88 bucks do that every 2 years and u wont have a problem with the cooling system. General upkeep is the key, people dont spend money and think they have a great car coz they havent had to spend any money on it but then it cost em more in the long run.

u can eliminate the factor of shrouds being the drama if the car still gets hot whilst idling with fans on. What degree is the thermostat u got in? Check waterpump belt tension. Go basics first.

looks good mate, dunno if i too much of a fan of the rb20 thing but see how u go, car looks good as a sleeper i would just leave it and drive it but its upto u. goodluck with it all

finally a skyline in the burnout pad thats all i can say.

should go very well, good to see u retaining the twin system. Nice looking car if its the one in ur avatar, keep us updated

Ok Updating, Me and dad went and had a closer look at the gtr manifold. Seems the gtr runners where they meet the head are round where the gtst inlet port shape is sort of like a butterfly shape, Our theory is to chop the standard gtst inlet manifold about 2 inches from the flange to the head, retaining the water cooler feature, which would also make the part where wer need to adapt the gtr plenum also round following so far? There was going to be a drama fitting the injectors into the gtr plenum, meaning we had to drill holes into the runners and make alloy sleeves to fit the injectors and get the right angle of fire etc, but now with retaining the standard inlet flange we already have hoels for injectors and also a good spray angle with the aid of the inlet water cooling. Another drama we came across with the initial thought of just making an adapter plate was that the gtst inlet ports are wider than the gtr plenum holes so we would have to somehow taper down the the correct size. Was going to be a hassle so we have decided this is the best way. Let me know what u guys think and know about our idea

rb25det power fc, already spoke to matty spry from P.I.T.S and he said there wont be any dramas.

power fc,