slippylotion

Id say you proven the stock vq25 to be very strong so far. I consider the head gasket and bolts the fusible link in an engine and your just tripped. Yours is still testament to the strength of the factory bottom end. Good job and look forward to the finished result of the 76.

What ever mate! I was only trying to help you possibly sell it quicker. Yes mine was s/hand that's why I listed it at that price.

Fair enough but I always work on the idea that once I have bought it its second hand and can't expect to get back what I paid. Plus I worked on the fact that no one locally would have paid ~$400 for it despite the fact it might have cost you that via Japan. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378072-m35-cargo-barrier-safety-net/page__pid__6030459#entry6030459

Can you go a larger thread size in these at all? I know the serious SR builds tap out to a larger stud size. Might be worth a look for the punishment you'll more than likely put it through ?

No offense jase but the last couple I sold for $250. I think $400 is a bit of a reach.

If that's the case head bolt stretch then. Fit an ARP stud kit.

I'd say it's not a common fault with the head gasket, it would have been from the 25psi forced in for it to try and hold. Nissan head gaskets don't normally hold that amount of boost for long. Toyota is better in that regard as they have a metal gasket from factory. Can you get a/market metal gaskets for it?

I've always used K&N filters on all my cars for years and never had a problem. Just don't drown it oil.

Why don't you guys get it set up to read/display in rpm? That's what I usually do.

It is a good way to check as the dereg paper has the last 2 odo recordings on it in 2 yr intervals. So for example if it had an inspection in 2007 with 50,000kms and another inspection in 2009 with 65,000kms on it and you buy it in 2011 it would have around 80,000 km's on it going by the amount done over the last 4yrs. If you bought it and it had a lot less km's on it than around that, such as if it had 40,000kms, then yes it's a typical wind back job. Not all are like this though, that's the point of asking to see the dereg paper. When I have time I'll scan one of my dereg certs so you can all see what I'm on about. And it usually gets wound back after the auction not before. I've seen a lot of cars marked on the auction sheet as having "unsure" km's. I've even actually been to one of the big auction houses in Nagoya and seen it first hand myself, not them being wound back but the auction sheet stating unsure km's. The auction houses are very good with the records of car details.

Dropped some stuff off at a local council hazardous waste station and 6-8 workers trying to work out what type of car I was driving. One said its a Volvo so I told him it's a Nissan stagea and as I drive out I could here them all yelling out to each other "it's a Nissan stagea" Very funny. Oh and they said it looked good. ?

Some cars do have legit km's on them, mine does as I imported it myself. Just ask the dealer to see the original Japanese government de-registration certificate, NOT a copy of it, THE original certificate. This will tell you if the km's are true or not.

A dyno fan doesn't blow the complete width of the car so it would be different.

Me also.

Just get a K&N or similar panel filter and fit an extra cold air feed. Will out perform a pod filter.

I just want paddle shifters to finish it off!

But if he had a bung silencer in the rear wouldn't he be able to see the bolt holding it in place!

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For you WA guys you can buy it from Summit Racing in the US for $276.75US delivered to your door. Or anywhere in Oz for that matter.

Stop it! I'm drooling. That is sex! Can I ask what the cost was?

If the gate gets priority by mounting it higher than the collector point and at a correct angle there will be no problems. Just don't buy a cheap manifold where this important point will be missed.

Metal cats are Only worth about $10 but ceramic about $45

After a stock cat converter, if anyone has one laying around PM me please.

Just a quick update on the v35 mid pipe upgrade I did. A bit of good luck for me. I payed $100 for the complete exh comprising of exh manifolds to rear muffler. Fitted the mid pipe to my m35, sold the rear muffler for $25, took both the cat converter sections to recycle yard and got $120 for the pair and then $2 for the rest of the exhaust for scrap metal. So after all that my mid pipe was free and gained $47 on the deal. Best bang for buck mod I've done yet!!!

If your comfortable using spanners it's not that hard at all. One of the easier major upgrades ive done to any of my cars. When I did mine I found it to be quite easy. Just take your time, mark everything you remove and best to have a mate help out so you can double check everything you do. No special tricks involved, just read the instructions and it's nice and easy. Then you have the satisfaction that you did it yourself.