DJSimmo

Hi Ron, Not sure about the r34 but if its anything like the r33 tank then the sender is mounted to the same metal bracket that holds the fuel pump in place. Sometimes the fuel senders fall off the metal bracket and sink to the bottom of the tank. You might need to fish it out of the bottom of the tank and mount it back in place. Cheers sime

Hi Matt The fuel sender is clipped on to the same metal bracket that holds the fuel pump in place in the r33 fuel tank. The fuel sender is mounted on the right hand side of the fuel pump (drivers side). To attach the fuel sender to the metal bracket you need to slide the fuel sender sideways from right to left across the bracket until it clips into place. The fuel sender is mounted vertically and the bottom edge which is slanted (can see in my pics) which go's in the bottom of the tank next to the fuel pump. Hope that makes sence

Anyone got one? Condition? Pics? Thanks!

i had an EJ1 its broken the display chip is faulty and the display is scrambled. Best bet is to get the HKS Camp 2 and the Nissan Consult harness it works really well and has allot more features compared to the EJ1. You can also buy optional sensors for the HKS Camp 2 like boost, oil pressure, exhaust temp, oil temp etc

Hope you can get the test car sorted soon I look foward to seeing some pics of the repair/rebuild shortly! Also good to hear you are cutting costs with batches of turbo's being made im sure it will help people out with better turbos for cheaper prices

what car is it for buddy? R32 GTR going by your avatar? cheers!

Looks fantastic love the 'new engine' pic and its great to see people restoring the GTR

best tyre rim offset combination ive seen on a 31 damn i want those rims and the car!! who ever buys these will be one happy camper! good luck with the sale!!

Thanks buddy! Yes that is an excellent idea for testing the gauge if you dont have a multimeter on hand cheers sime

bad / dry solder joint some where. I had a similar problem and took my cluster to a repairer in melb and cost me about $80 to get it fixed.

did you end up putting them on your car?

CONFIRMED mine is the same!

R33, Stagea and Primera are the only NISMO LCD dashes I have seen. No R32 afaik

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you interpret this DIY repair guide in the wrong way and fcuk your shit up so take your time and do it carefully and it will all work out. I setup this guide because there were many threads on SAU about fuel gauge & sender problems but none with an answer to the problems that I was having with my fuel gauge and fuel sender. Problems: -Fuel gauge would go from full to empty and then back to full again with a full tank of fuel -Fuel gauge would go below empty 'E' and would just stay there with a full tank of fuel -Fuel gauge was not accurate and the needle points to 'E' with 10-20 liters left in the tank. Note: This guide assumes that your fuel gauge is working correctly and the fuel level sender is the problem. Items for the job: -Cotton Wool -Prepsol, Turps or Metho -Knife -Screwdriver -Multimeter for testing (Optional) Step 1: Remove your fuel sender from the tank. There is another guide showing how to remove the fuel pump so you can use this as a reference. Step 2: Inset a thin flat object (in this case I used a knife) under the tab/clip and then insert a flat blade screwdriver between the two halves of the fuel sender plastic case and slightly twist to lever the two pieces apart. You need to do this bit by bit as there are quite a few clips holding the two halves together. Go slow and dont twist too hard or you will break the plastic case. Step 3: Once the two halves are apart you can see the float and the piece of steel that it which we need to clean to make sure the float is making good contact with the steel. I tested the float by moving it up down with a multi meter connected and the resistance was jumping around and showing dead spots. Step 4: Clean the metal piece that the float slides on with some cotton wool and some metho, turps or prepsol to remove the grime that has built up. It does not seem dirty but once you start cleaning it you will see the dirt wipe off with ease. Don't forget to clean both sides of the sender metal guide that the float slides on. You can see the dirt coming off the float slide on the cotton wool below. Step 5: Once you have cleaned both sides of the float guide connect a multi meter to the float plug as seen in the pic below and set the multi meter to read ohms I set mine to 2000ohms. The black wire is negative and the white wire is positive. When sliding the float up and down the rail you should see the numbers on the multi meter go up and down with out jumping around too much. As we can see in the pic empty is showing 8ohms roughly half way is showing 55ohms and full is showing 95ohms with smooth increments in between. Step 6: Give the fuel sender casing a good clean to make sure you get all of the dirt off it. I also used a compressed air to blow some a the bits of dirt out. Step 7: Reassemble the fuel sender by placing the two halves together and you should hear the tabs click once they are seated. That's it time to refit and test with a full tank of fuel.

by the sounds of it you have a Series 2 GTST and if this is the case you will have to change the bonnet, grille, etc to a series 1 gtst items to make the lights fit. they fit the series 1 and series 1.5 GTST but the bottom mount for the headlight does not bolt up and needs to be modified, probably a new hole drilled to suite. so no easy way to fit them. please pm me and let me know how much you paid for the lights. good luck!

hey buddy whats still left and for sale?

I tried this and the gauge works fine so it must be the sender.

hey guys i have the same problem with my r33 gtst i parked the car on a slight angle with a full tank of fuel and when i came back the needle was past the E right at the bottom of the gauge. i plugged in another dash cluster and the needle started dropping streight away. did you guys work out what was wrong? clean or replace the sender unit? if replace new or second hand? expensive? cheers!!

Agreed! I look forward to testing one on my car in the future!

I think what Rolls ment is stock comp cover and stock rear housing. if thats the case im with Rolls on this one as I would like to see some more development using stock comp cover and op6 or even 2iu

ITEM: YZ 426 F 2000 Model CONDITION: -The 2000 Model has the stainless steel valves that last longer than the titanium valves put in the 01 - 03 models. Parts & Upgrades: -Muzzys Full Titanium Exhaust(NEW) -Full Acerbis Plastics (NEW) -Gripper Seat (NEW) -Megura Hydraulic Clutch (NEW) -LED Front & Rear Lights Working With Switch (For Rec Reg) -Wave Rotors Front & Rear (NEW) -Genuine Yamaha Brake Pads Front & Rear (NEW) -Alloy Shark Fin Rear Disk Brake Protector (NEW) -Regina O Ring Gold Chain (NEW) -IronMan Front Sprocket 14T (NEW) -Ironman Rear Sprocket 51T (NEW) -Blue Carby Drain Tubes (NEW) -Renthal Handle Bars (NEW) -Light Speed Front Brake Upgrade With different Cable Routing and Braided Brake Line -Twin Air - Air Filter -IMS Pro Series Foot Pegs (NEW) -Yamaha Genuine Front and Rear Brake Master Cylinder upgrade from 2004 model YZ450F -Genuine Yamaha Side Frame Protectors -Front Frame / Engine Protector -Sticker Kit is new but Peeling on the tank -Michelin Tubes Front and Rear (NEW) -Dunlop Tyres Front and Rear (Front tyre looks new Rear has only a few hours use) -Hydraulic Lift up Stand Included -Fold out ramp for loading onto a trailer or ute (NEW) -Magnetic Oil Sump Plug Condition: -Overall excellent mechanical condition well maintained excellent working condition easy bike to ride with lots of power too -Starts easily once you get the starting procedure sorted out -Front and Rear Wheels could do with a true up -Stickers on the tank are peeling others are fine -One spoke from the Rear Wheel is broken but I have two new spares which will be included Servicing: -Has had a new timing chain installed (Less than 5hrs ago) -Has had new shims installed and valve clearances set (Less than 5hrs ago) -Oil changed every 3-5 hours -Oil filter changed every 3-5 hours when oil is done -Air Filter cleaning after every ride (I have a spare and just swap between the two) -NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs used -Comes with a complete service manual including pictures, on how to maintain your YZ426F -No expense spared when it comes to parts and servicing Original Parts Included: -Full Exhaust -Clutch Cable and Lever -Decomp Lever -Chain -14T Front Sprocket -15T Front Sprocket -42T Rear Sprocket -44T Rear Sprocket -48T Rear Sprocket -49T Rear Sprocket -50T Rear Sprocket -Front Rotor -Rear Rotor -Front & Rear Pads 50% -Chain Guides Worn But Ok -Twin Air - Air Filter (NEW) -Yamaha Foot Pegs -AEM Handle Bars -Front Frame / Engine Protector -Rear View Mirror (For Rec Reg) (NEW) -Full Original Yamaha plastics (Not broken just a few scratches) Lubricants Included: -Motul 10w50 Engine Oil -Engine Ice Coolant -Motul DOT4 Brake Fluid -Motul Chain Lube -Motul Air Filter Oil -1x Spare oil Filter Included Included If Bike Sells For The Right Price: -Yamaha WR426F Long Range Fuel Tank (Blue) -Yamaha WR426F Seat Excellent Condition (Blue & Black Cover) This is a perfect upgrade for someone who wants to ride long distances, tracks and trails or someone who wants to ride and not fill up as oftern. PICTURES: http://s667.photobucket.com/albums/vv32/sime1982/Yamaha%20YZ426F%202000/ eBay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Yamaha-YZ-426-F-2000-Lots-Mods-Upgrades-Spares-/230587964397?pt=AU_Motorcycles&hash=item35b01d1bed REASON FOR SELLING: Focusing on my career and masters studies PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS: Excellent Condition $4k LOCATION: Victoria, Coburg 3058

Thanks mate!

hey guys im looking for a R33 GTS-T airbox lid just the lid.... cheers simon

hey mate your pm box is full shoot me a pm when you get a chance about the cradle cheers sime