lwells

Thanks guys Lucien

Jax, I think I have a the same problem as you (did? all fixed?). Sometimes I can get my aircon to start and it will blow cold air for X minutes before a fuse blows (I think its always number 10) and hot air starts coming through I have tested the aircon relay (vehicle side): point 2 shows ~12V, but point 3 shows 0V. My guess, based on my symptoms, is that the magnet clutch is not working properly (or at all). Does that sound right to you? I had hoped to test the magnet clutch connector but I can't for the life of me find it as the picture is so bad in the digitised workshop manual. Are you able to point me in the right direction? When you say the "magnetic clutch's windings", is there some way to test those (ie. I assume that testing the magnetic clutch connector won't test the windings as well)? Do you know if the magnetic clutch is standard across all R32s, or did it change constantly like the compressor? Can the "windings" be repaired, or should I just replace the whole magnetic clutch? Cheers, Lucien.

Sean, Can you post up the relevant section from the service manual? The relay in my boot is making an very loud clicking noise and causes the voltage meter to bump and lights to dim momentarily every five or so seconds. Lucien.

AtomicBomberMan: did you ever sort out what the problem is? Lucien.

I used just over 4l in my gearbox.. LW.

Hi All, I have a few electrical gremlins I want to address (namely, a weird clunking noise every few seconds from around the left-rear indicator which causes the voltage meter to fluctuate and the cars lights to dim). As such, does anyone have a diagram (or pictures/drawings/whatever) of all the earthing/grounding points on the R32 GT-R? I have checked through the workshop manual with no luck, and searched SAU, SDU and GTROC with no success... Cheers, Lucien.

And you actually believe it will last you for 400,000KM? LW.

Gawd dammit: can you order any more? LW.

Mark: That's really kind of you, thanks. I will give ABS in Melbourne a call and see if I can get them to send me down a set, and if so, how much. If all else fails, I might take you up on your offer Interested to see how your brakes are post-overhaul. And would still like to know if anyone has found an overhaul kit for the master cylinder.... Lucien.

Nor me. I was actually interested in seeing what improvements/compromises Matt made vis-a-vis the original setup by comparing a before and after run. Outright figures are pretty useless except as a rough guide (IMHO). LW.

Richard: I take it you have had your car tuned then? Any before/after dyno sheet goodness? (Or did I miss the thread somewhere?) LW.

Lunatic Dancer: No problems, just wanted to make it clear I wasn't knocking Steve Mark: Goods arrive? Lucien.

Hi Guys, Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that SteveL was giving out the wrong information: frankly I am far more inclined to believe him than anything a sales goon has to say The point I was trying to make was that ABS (in Sydney, at least) had NFI and wanted to charge the earth. Hence I was wondering if anyone had other experiences lately. Seems like ordering from Vic is the way to go. cowie165: Please report back when you recieve the parts. Lucien.

superclarkey: Why don't you start a seperate thread rather than hi-jacking this one? This is a very interesting thread that shouldn't be junked up with crap. Moreover, if you can't be bothered reading five pages, I doubt most people can be bothered responding to your post. LW.

hazerb30: Looks like you might need a new left vent. LW.

Sorry to hear about your loss. I live in the inner-west area and will keep a close eye out. Wow... that's unbelievable.. I wouldn't trust Hobbs in the slightest. I am yet another person who has had a bad experience with them: I have never come across a company with such utter disdain for customer service and ethics.

I am exactly half way through now (page 402 of 804). Weeeeeeeeeee. Incidentally, the PDF file size is going to be quite big I think. LW.

Ok, the plot thickens. I spoke to George at ABS (Kirawee, Sydney) who said the following: 1) They have no listing for the R32 Skyline (no suprise) 2) The part numbers that SteveL mentioned are not "PBR" (WTF that is) part numbers, but Lucas Europe numbers. 3) SJ6070 has been replaced with 210E001 4) Price are as follows: Front (axel kit): $105 Rear (individual): $80 ea (thus $160 for an axel) TOTAL = $260. Bit different to $100 ... Thoughts? LW.

SteveL: Cheers for the part numbers. I will give ABS a call today. Might also see if they have an seal kit for the master cylinder (you wouldn't happen to know would you?) Roy: How much did the HPC cost for the calipers? LW.

Do you have a dyno sheet from before the addition of the Poncams + cam wheels? Any other major modifications? LW.

WTF happened?

I had a quick look on Yahoo JP. No Cefiro keys, but I did find an Autech key http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/75107014 LW.

Up to about page 330 now: hopefully finish tonight at about 350-ish. Doing about 50 pages a day at the moment, but that might slow a bit over the week as I have other commitments. Duncan: Good-o. There will still be a few problems with searchability: 1) I am doing most of the tables of data as images because their layout gets screwed otherwise. However, the headings for the tables are text. When/if I have time, I might go back and redo the tables as text (but its a fiddly job). 2) If paragraphs include images -- like "1" or "A" within a circle -- I have to do that paragraph as an image because there is no other way to preserve the special characters. Most everything else (except, obviously, for the pictures/diagrams) will be searchable. Lucien.

I agree with Shan: I don't think charging for it would be appropriate. As long as people get some use out of it, I'm happy. I have almost finished the first 300 pages. Its taking about a day per 50-100 pages, so hopefully by the end of the week I will have a 'first draft' done. It will need some editing to make it pretty again, but that's a lot easier. Lucien.

That's true, however you may find that your current key has a small number stamped on it. Take the key to a proper locksmith and they can generate a copy from the number that is *identical* to the original key on the day it was produced (ie. not 10-15 years of wear and tear). Should cost about $10. LW.