SLAPS

There was also a mark99 here in SA that built an RB29 using an rb26 block, slightly destroked rb30 crank, forged rods and custom low pin height pistons. Rev'd to 8.5k and made some awesome power. There's a dyno sheet laying around some where that was posted. The rod angles are of concern but it has held together without any issues so it may be a moot point.

Awesome. Will have to bring the boy down and check it out next race meet. Is there a web site listing race meet dates times etc?

A power run is all thats needed, you will soon know if its leaning out or detonating. If it does lean out or detonate they will jump off the loud pedal and let you know. Ask how the afr's were and they will give u a print out of the base run + afr's or torque depends what you want. IMO afr's are of more value in your instance. Couldn't buy a decent boost gauge for $40 that doesn't read bad (i.e the speco's and others around its price range etc are crap)

I've never seen an rb26 get near the torque of an rb30 on the dyno I run on and there has been a a lot of rb30's and rb25s on that dyno running upwards of 500rwkw. Regardless. A dyno sheet doesn't reflect the throttle response, drive ability and power produced in the lower gears. Its like night and day and I would say so more so than 15%. The larger motor spools the turbo easier in the lower less loaded faster reving gears. More boost is made combined with the additional displacement and the motor feels like its making considerably more than 15% power compared to the rb25 in the same low gear. Get in to a well sorted rb30 (head cams etc) and similar sorted rb25/26 and youll realise how little dyno sheet comparisons mean when looking at different capacities and gearing etc. Obviously as Dirt stated you can't just bolt on a bottom end and hope for the best. It must be well sorted otherwise rpm will suffer.

Drop a GT35r or larger on an built RB20 vs a built rb30 and lets do the same comparison. The RB30 is a much nicer, more forgiving and easy machine to drive and get power down out of corners out at the track compared to the small motors.

Leave the bov's off or blocked. Especially if you run a map based aftermarket ecu. They are there for emissions and driveability, not for performance.

R32's when stock do feel fairly crap, mine used to feel like an N/A until I got some boost in to it. They need exhaust and a little boost ~12psi then they start to come alive. Taping coils won't do anything unless its popping/missing. If you must throw in a set of cheap copper BCPR6E plugs and gap them to 0.8mm. ~$24 for a set and they last a good 30,000km's on a near stocker with a little boost. Lazy fuel pump can make a car feel really tired. Best bet is to grab a base dyno run. Throw it on the dyno at one of the up and coming dyno days. You'll soon know if something is off with it. If you do the timing light check that will only be noticeable if you bring the car off idle. When on idle the car runs off its statically set timing via the CAS.

60gb per month here.. All paid for by work. DSTROY, I've had little luck adjusting the handbrake. Set both cable tensioners correctly and then tried via the hubs. No luck it was still banging on so to speak. Nothing nothing BANG. Shoot to down to a workshop that knows these cars and have them set the hand brake up. I had mine done last wheel alignment and now its due another as I've dropped height again and installed roll center adjusters.

Spot on IMO. My R32 GTST when 100% stock right down to the exhaust and cat made 110rwkw, 115rwkw with a little more timing and 125rwkw with the afr leaned out by Tim's (old rpm performance owner) good old fuel pressure reg bleeder. Can't speak more highly of Shaun also. I have known Shaun since pre-boostworx days when he was helping out RPM.

My cousin who owns an R33 knew Gillies well. I heard about the accident shortly after it happened. Very nasty accident. Heard pretty much what happened from his friends that were not so far behind at the time the accident occurred. It was a stupid accident that didn't have to happen. I grew up down south and have NFI why they put those stupid islands there severely reducing the overtaking locations; myself I've almost been caught out at night with the typical 50km/h cruiser that refuses to sit on the speed limit oh shit island better pull back in. There's just something that is as frustrating as hell when the signed speed limit is 70km/h your on your way to work or pushed for time and you have a rude individual sitting well under the limit with no respect for any one else on the road. There is enough real estate, push it out to 2 lanes. I suspect they have plans to as it is 2 lanes closer up to KFC etc.

It definitely wins hands down when you consider the purchase of EBC's afms etc. The only thing I don't like about the V44 is lack of knock display. I don't believe being a new product is an issue - it is a Link G4 but with better support and tweaked to prevent using either or software. I might have a look at both firmware and see what differs. I suspect where it matters they will be identical, the issue preventing the use of link and vipecs software on either unit is not an indicator they are 'different' ecu's.

Smithfield plains and the lack of front garden care... First time I've been up that way and what a shock to the system

Those interested in joining a motorsport car club Nissan Datsun car club is extremely hard to beat for value. $50 for a family or single membership. http://www.nissandatsuncarclubsa.com/events.htm Your also allowed access to M.S.C.A supersprints. http://www.mscasa.com/event_calendar.html Check out last years supersprint results some damn quick cars out there. Nissan 180 3.6ltr wtf 1.18's.

18's low profile = less straight line grip regardless if the tyres are a fair bit wider, less sidewall flex so over bumps yeah you may find under throttle it tends to get loose a little easier. I've tried a set of wide middle range 18's and found a good set of 16's leave them for dead for acceleration grip. Corner grip; the 18's are the way to go but trying to get 300+rwkw down where its making 250rwkw by 4000rpm can get a little tricky. Learn throttle control and get the feel of the car and you won't be fishtailing anywhere, if acceleration grip is what you want drop back to at least a 17".

Unsure on the design of superpro but with Redranger/Nolathane bushes I've the metal washers/flange rub against the face of the upper control arm both inner and outers causing squeek. Shove a little grease between the metal faces and they completely shut up. I've had mine in in for a good 40k, pulled out soon after they were installed due to squeek. Noticed slight rub marks on the metal flange so on with some grease and they have been great since. Recently pulled them out to check out the condition; only real wear was the grooves inside being slightly worn. Still in top condition though so back in they went. Picked up the full front end kit of an ebay type site (oziton or something from memory) for $318 delivered. Bargain considering they have adjustable inner/outer upper control arm, lower control arm bushes and adjustable castor.

Not the prettiest but for any sort of motor sport I prefer the easy reading of these... http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?c...cfc7975d3fb03d4 Recalls highest temperature reading.

32 GTR has the IAT in the plenum the 33 I believe has it in the IC piping towards the front of the car to prevent heatsoak. Unsure of its exact location. I have mine located in the inner bumpers IC piping. I find the std IAT sensor to be quite slow reacting. Would be nice if there was a replacement that were considerably quicker. I've looked at the GM IAT's but they are way off. The GTR IAT definitely modifies ignition and from memory fuel also. Its been a while since I hooked the datalogit up to it.

Where you live also makes a MASSIVE difference. Up north and down south = DEFECTS! In the middle and you'll generally be fine providing the cars not too low and ricer looking. now where's that defect sticky thread...

1. Unfortunately not. 2. Thats correct.

Pillar gauges Too low Dark tint Loud exhaust Boost controller After market bov Turbo timer Fuel computer/ecu Engine modifications (plenum, different turbo/exhaust manifold, cams, different motor that hasn't been approved) We know the above list is illegal (if you don't do some research and don't be so lazy) so exactly what are we trying to achieve with Neil?? Stop him having bad days and defecting for non-existent items when those are smart arses towards him? It won't happen. Or are we going to provide him with free education how to detect highflows and other various 'hidden' modifications? lol

Double check the engine temp and if possible the inlet temp. Any where from low 70-110degree's my standard temp gauge sits on half. Only once you start to creep past 110degree's it starts moving off half. Unsure with the std ecu however I presume it would contain ignition and fuel trim as engine temp pushes over a certain point. Mine starts to pull out any where up to 3-4degree's by the time engine temp is at 110degree's as well as richen it up 'slightly' to prevent ping. It may be detonating slightly when hot so the ecu drops back to the low oct map? Unless your running a nismo thermostat, nice alloy radiator and have retained the std viscous fan I would thing it will be pushing close to 110 degree's when your stuck up it for some time.

I've used a VL one from the local auto shop as well as an rb25det one from Nissan. They are all the same. If its binding something is not right with the input shaft or you have not whacked the spigot in all the way. To remove the old pack the hole full of grease; grab a small socket with a little extension on the end or a piece of metal rod that fits and hammer away. The grease you pack in behind the spigot will force the spigot out as you hammer.

There's also some ruling about 'some' defects being cleared at the local cop shop providing you live >30 or 40km's of the CBD. Unsure on the ruling exactly but major defects still have to be cleared at regency I believe.

1.21 around Mallala nice time for a stocker.

Dan, I believe the comment was made in jest. Regardless.. You make a silly comment your going to receive a silly response.