SLAPS

Damn.. you really need to get a set of cams in to that RB30DET. Would be interesting if you could get a set of 260-265 9mm cams to pass emissions. 265/9mm idle baby smooth in my rb30det and picked up 30rwkw with some really nice mid range improvements on the same boost with 98 PULP. Power was only 'slightly' down under 2000rpm but not noticeable via seat of the pants when driving. The power improvements I saw probably won't be reflected in your case due to E85. Would be interesting to see though. All though 30 odd psi - as it came on would absolutely obliterate any thought of traction and would be rather fun. In my setup the cams improved the power as boost came on and made more power everywhere so the zero to all out boost transition wasn't so hard on the tyres as it loaded them up quickly but progressively. I'm running Nissan headbolts and pushed 24psi running a Cometic MLS torqued down with my 25yr old torque wrench. No issues. IMO 400-450rwkw+ and you really should start looking at 12mm + ARP head bolts to keep things together as combustion pressures sky rocket.

How did you end up going with this? Your problems sounds really strange as the horizontal alignment is identical. If you didn't grind back the top lug all that would happen is the pump may require a different sized belt and the two bottom bolts wouldn't tighten up flush against the bracket. Its alignment with the balancer would not be changed. Mine was no issues, I simply ground back the top lug on the r32 gtst power steer pump bracket and bolted it on to the rb30 block. The Rb20/25/26's bolt the top bracket bolt hole to the head where as due to the additional 38mm odd rb30 block height you simply bolt the bracket to the block but this requires the protruding lug on the std rb20/25/26 bracket to be ground back flush. I too noticed the rb30e power steer bracket looked like it would be suitable but didn't bother testing.

I agree with Beer Baron. I've tried multiple diff ratio's in the RWD with up over 300rwkw and even 3.9's kill the feel of the car. It transforms the car from a fast reving FUN sports car in to a dull and LAGGY car. The longer ratio's make the car feel so so much laggier its not funny. Mods won't make up for the lack of FUN factor but it will push the speeds where the car may feel like its starting to really move to higher road speed. Not so good for those demerit points. What really sucked about the longer ratio IMO was corner exit. It felt as if the car went from having a gear for every corner to having gears that were either too high or too low, that is unless I was willing to do stupid speeds on the street which is just silly. The R34 GTR 6speed. Does that drop the highway RPM at 100km/h in top gear? Maybe a gearbox + diff swap is the answer? Or... Another car.. The tuned LS1 auto purs along at a little over 1500rpm at 100km/h with 7.5-8.5l/100 on the calibrated trip computer.

The arse end was moving around on mine a fair bit. It was two things. 1. Left hand rear hicas tie rod ball joint was shagged causing the rear to tramline when cruising and at WOT. 2. Subframe bushes were shagged (leaking) causing the car to feel as if it was steering from the rear under hard throttle only. On the dyno I could see the subframe pushing forward. I locked out the hicas and removed the hicas lines to the rear of the car, if you have an R32 gtst be sure you fit a power steer cooler if you remove the hicas lines as you'll find the steering will become a little stiff as the temps increase on hot days and when giving the car a hard time.

Castrol LMM it is.

Hey all, I am replacing the rack and pinion and re-greasing the gear mechanism. The old current grease is a really tacky almost hard brown grease. I have some Castrol HTB grease that I used previously on the old rack some time ago but it appears to have not stood up to the type of use. The HTB grease isn't as solid/tacky and has simply been squeezed away from the gear/shaft, possibly why the rack began to fail (loose centre and the occasional crack noise) I'm thinking some sort of Molly based lube? What have others used? For those who are unsure what I am talking about....

As weather cools air is denser. You may find its pushing out past where it was tuned and in to an area of the map where the tuner has it running richer just in case you push up that boost or it dips in to that load point as a result of cold dense air. As for the cloud of smoke/fuel when did it occur? Start/middle/end of a gear or on the gear change? Have the better half give the car a flogging while you drive her car behind to get a better idea.

150,000km's on the stock turbo running 1 bar with no bov sold with no shaft play then went on to a larger turbo for a good 70,000km's no bov @ 1bar, sold with no issues and now a bigger turbo again for 20,000km's no bov with no issues running upwards of 24psi. I found it reduced lag on gear changes especially noticeable when putting in around traffic slightly on boost with all - straight off the actuator (pressure source comp housing), with an MBC and now with an EBC. And... Nothing wrong with the ol' VLT's. I personally hate the sound of aftermarket atmo bov's. For myself its either a a tight aftermarket recirc bov that doesn't vent until 20psi odd or no bov at all. VLT's have been getting around with no bovs running close to 2bar since some of you were in nappies. IMO emissions and drive ability at part throttle is all bovs are for.

CEF11E, It will be VERY interesting to compare dyno plots and share a few vids with the 3076 .82 IW I have on mine making ~300rwkw on pulp.

lol thanks for pointing out the 'obvious'. Kralster will be Kralster. In my younger years I made some some silly mistakes I regret. Doesn't mean I'd ever repeat some of the crap I involved myself in when I was a young lad.

Still std cams and std exh. manifold for the GT35r? Curious to know the above as a mates gt35r .82 on an rb30det running an rb26 head with cams in the 260degree range but decent lift + a home made exh. manifold pulls 390rwkw on avgas with around 20psi. If your still on stock cams etc then god damn!!! I've been told of some impressive gains E85 has over C16. Definitely good shit. I still have 1/4 of a tank left so will have to head down and try to track some down. Hopefully Mawson lakes still sells.

Don't even need a machinist. 6mm black rod from the local metal supplies on O'sullivans beach road + a drill press with a 1.5 or 1.2mm drill bit and you have a restrictor. --- Gary, Sorting the Nissan oil issues begins with the oil restrictors. Second... I personally prefer venting the sump rather than the mess of drilling/tapping the head for an additional oil drain especially if its being raced. --- Fastrotor... My issues with excessive oil occurred over 5000rpm and 95psi oil pressure with 2 x 1.8mm oil restrictors. It really depends on the oil pressure and setup you have if your going to experience problems or not. I now run a single 1.5mm up front front and blocked rear with stupid hydraulic lifters. Zero issues.

What sort of voltage are you talking? I have always seen a slight voltage drop with mine; its nothing the volt vs ign, volt vs inj correction can't take care of. As its a different motor my bet is the chassis/motor being poorly earthed.

Would be there with bells on if only family wasn't over from Interstate. Can't wait for next year's come and try. The teins I run are setup fairly soft but not sure how it would handle some of those dips. :S

So this is why he is so against providing an 'outlet' for enthusiasts. Because he is one of 'those' who will continue to offend regardless of the availability of motor sport venues. Take a step back... This is the media people. How long has it been since these offences were committed? Back in the Uni days as a cab driver possibly? 10k with 30 odd offences. Thats an average of 300 odd per fine so the majority being speeding fines thats only just over the speed limit. My bet is the majority of these offences occurred while trying to make ends meat/driving cabs. Not saying its right but damn the media can be rather nasty and deceiving. A few articles I've seen of late I believe the enthusiast has a friend in the media. lol

Surge... Sounds much like a boost leak. My turbo to IC joiner developed a pin prick hole that would open right up under boost and created bad surge and the car felt dead. Idled and drove with under 4psi or so perfectly fine.

Give the 7's or 8's a hard run on the dyno then pull them out to see if they are too hot or too cool. I've in my motor copper 6's are good up until around 250rwkw then up to 300rwkw 7's past that 8's. Leaning out the cold start enrichment (of which u can do a fair bit from default pfc values) also helps prevent the plugs fouling on short trips. Tweaking cold start enrichment etc is the difference between leaving the car with a tuner for 3days with a $600 tune vs a quick tune for $300-$400. Or fiddling yourself leaning it out every cold start until you experience driveability issues. 380rwhp I'd run 7's. BCPR7ES @ 0.8mm I've also ran resisted and non-resisted at around 400rwhp - no difference that the dyno or I could notice. Both plugs required a gap of 0.8mm with std nissan coils.

Get the boost drop sorted and it will make some decent power. Plumbing the wastegate in to the dump kills boost a fair whack. :S E85 produces more exhaust gas than regular pump fuel so no doubt not helping your problems. As others have mentioned drop the exhaust after the front pipe to see where the restriction is. All though its likely to be a bandaid you may wish to look at fitting the gate with a spring to suit the boost your after, then use the EBC to tweak spool. Another option is to fit a smaller gate that will reduce the surface area and prevent the gate being blown open once the pressure backs up. If you have to redo the exhaust consider a 3.5-4" dump and then if need be taper it down to 3-3.5" or twin 2.5" after the cat. Works for the XR6T's to make decent power and keep noise under wraps. Twins do an excellent job of keeping noise down while still flowing damn well but $$. Some times if a workshop is busy they will say it looks fine but they really don't know until they drop the exhaust and find out the good ol' fashioned way.

Can't/wouldn't bother arguing with RIPS. Im sure RIPS has already shown you a few vids but the RB30DET he built up for the black R34 was running 280degree 10.8mm cams. The RB30's soak up big cams nicely. With regards to various durations, where peak lands and usable RPM - as your probably aware inlet tuning (manifold) plays a huge part. RIPS always run a custom plenum.

Group Buy water injection kits anyone? Madaz the group buy king??? lol

RB30 can be done with stock bits for 3k. - PM sent. --- No Cubes uses the 6bladed .6 port shrouded GT3076 .82 IW. The GT3040's are good but they are a tad lazy. The power delivery feels like it lags a bit then comes on with a rush. The 76 however is linear and much more tractable. The larger 82mm compressor paired with the GT30 .82 rear doesn't offer any more power compared to the GT3076 unless your running better than 98ron pump fuel. The hot side becomes a restriction. Or.. GT3040 with the 1.06 rear can push close to 340-350rwkw on pump fuel with cams etc. BUT with the additional lag you may as well drop on the GT35r .82 and push just that little bit more. Where does it end. Back in the day when the GT3076 was a 7blade (not current 6blade) the GT3040 was definitely the way to go. Hell even the Gt3071 was a better option than the GT3076 7blade variant.

Why would that be so... Any other 'serious' club is open to any enthusiast.

If you want the 30 to hold together ATI all the way. The ATI RB balancers IS a better balancer than the Ross.

please quote me correctly... ok enough of this bullshit to pm it goes.

LMFAO. Improve airflow and the 3037 WILL max out around 1bar. Boost is a restriction to airflow. knobber. I have fiddled with these turbo's on 25's and 30's. Also check Al's RB30det... Go check the dyno thread buddy. How is my dirt comment Petty? You have way misinterpreted... I simply stated that incase one (i.e you) with the RB25 thought it would be fine to run big duration cams in their hydraulic head. It doesn't work. Been there done that. Mate I've been here on sau since it started so dont look at post counts buddy, prior to that it was SDU. Your sick of it.... I gave some advice that is correct and you provided me with a highly intelligent wanker comment.