SLAPS

The rev debate...... (apart from racing regs duncan) Who needs more than 9000rpm anyway, apart from RIPS who pulls 10,000 from his drag car (still stock block and crank) I fail to see the problem. As the 26's also require. A good set of rods, pistons, aftermarket balancer and the ol' rb30's in their thongs and black skin tight jeans hang in there for 9000rpm no issues. 9000rpm+ for an RB30 is well in to GT45 hp territory lol. The old RB30ET's with a little headwork + cams push 8000rpm on stock rods lol (with a balancer) and RB30ET pump. Not the DOHC crapo style pumps.

Tuned length...... hrmmm I'm thinking inertia and friction loss... That loop backish style of pipe work isn't all that good for flow. Visualise sliding down a water slide as a child... you'd drop some serious speed. However I really like the look of that cam belt alloy looking fill in section. A++

One really has to drive the GT3076r with a .82 rear on the RB30 to understand why it is such an awesome combination. Al's has no issues pulling out to 8k with his .82 rear. Power is limited to around 320-330rwkw on pump with the .82 rear. The 1.06 gt30 hot side flows approximately the same as a GT35 .82 hotside however the gt30 comp wheel is wasted on it as it runs in to choke well before the hot side is max'd. For a track car sure.. It will help keep EGT's down but for a streeter its best to tighten up the scroll. Spool is similar between the gt30 .82 and 1.06 GT30 so I really wouldn't bother. A leaf out of the RB30ET's... They simply skip the whole 1.06 rear on the GT30 idea as the gains are minimal for the increased lag. -- On Topic.. Even the GT35r IW's have issues holding boost regardless of power being made. Back to SK's ideals... Match the wastegate to the boost you wish to run. In my experience its best to try to get the actuator to around -2psi of the total boost you intend to run.

I ran a blocked rear and 1.5mm up front for some time. Im really not all that happy with how there is signs of increased wear up top. Cold starts the reduced oil was noticeable from day 1. Back left rear there was signs of increased wear. I've now done it properly and vented the damn sump. If I were to do it again I definitely would not look at a single 1.5mm for a hydraulic head without VCT. --- As for Dirt not holding grudges. yeah sure bud.. I've seen your comments a good couple years after a pm confrontation. 'grease monkey' lol.

In my experience on pump fuel with the stock exh. manifold regardless of the turbo (gt35 or gt30) you'll be pushed to make much more than a little over 300rwkw on a DD Dyno even then it can be a stretch. I believe a 1.06 GT30 would only reduce average power. Mine on std cams and a .82 GT30 was making peak power at 6k and would then fall over fairly quickish but not all that noticable seat of the pants. A set of cams and it held power flat line from 6k to 7k and picked up 26rwkw on the same boost. The cams allowed the car to run a fair bit more timing. All round it was much happier and didn't feel so on edge with the ign. timing requirements. Two mates with a near identical motor/setup but with a GT35r .82 identical setup made pretty much identical power on the stock manifold to my GT30 .82. The better flowing GT35 .82 hot side on the stock exh manifold did nothing for power. I see this experience as being comparable to the 1.06 GT30 line of thought. I should also mention on the dyno the GT35 .82 didn't actually lag far behind the GT30 in terms of out right spool. Drive the cars back to back the difference is extremely noticable in first and second. The GT35 on the RB30 in comparison to the GT30 made it feel like a pig to drive as you had to give it too many rev's in first/second to really get the turbo spooling well. The GT30 had quick responsive spool that made getting the power down easier as it wasn't a lag lag snap power delivery like the GT35 in comparison. I think of it like slamming the brakes on vs feeding the brakes on progressively. Much harder to get those wheels locking. However, mine is no longer driven on the street (not defected but it was a bit silly for the street, it was just a matter of time before it caused me to loose my license as I found WOT = a slight tail wag in third (depending on road surface) a little addictive. I've now dropped the std exhaust manifold in favour of a HKS cast item and will be bolting up a GT35 .82 aiming for 350rwkw+ on pump. Fingers crossed. A little O/T but I've also removed the blocked rear oil restrictor and 1.5mm front as the back left side of the head began showing signs of excessive heat. It looks to me the hydraulic heads really need 2 smaller oil restrictors as there was a little noise from that back end end of the head on cold start up directly after fitting the 1.5mm front and blocked rear. Lith, as for the T4 TS GT35R. Its only a drill tap, slight port of the HKS manifold and turbine housing change. Fingers crossed the HKS manifold supports the power level and doesn't cap out like the stocker does. If I were to do it again.. GT30r .82 on stock manifold for >310rwkw (pump fuel). Anything bigger on the stock manifold is a waste.

Nissan ran 2 restrictors. One at the block and another at the inlet of the turbo. GCG I believe supply turbo's with an additional restrictor. I reused the factory restrictor at the block on my old GT30 setup and will again be using a restrictor for the new setup. Its not wise to T in to the turbo's oil drain.

So... on that note lol Why by Non-Turbo? The raspy n/a sound?

You will always get a little moisture in the oil when the car sits around and or is driven really short trips. Short trips the oil doesn't get up to temp and evap the water off.

Its only 300rwkw not 500rwkw. What have you done with cam timing? Have you tried pulsing the throttle instead of holding it at a constant rpm.

Keep it if you can, the improvement in mid range power is always welcome. If your concerned about the control of vct grab a NOS rpm window switch, very common in the US and cheap as chips. http://tinyurl.com/lu6bpm

Definitely shows how much cleaner the E85 burns. Oil restrictors are out (shoving 2 x 1.2mm's in) and then on with the hks manifold and gt35. Can't wait. But I will miss the awesome response of the GT30.

Pulled the head off to remove the blocked rear oil restrictor and shove 2 x 1.2's in there. IMO one 1.5mm up front for a hydraulic head isn't too good for the fat left exhaust side of the head) The car hasn't done too many km's on E85 as its not street driven but a few things I've noticed. 1. Any carbon sitting on the pistons has basically dissapeared. What is left isn't hard and crispy like it usually is but soft and gooey. 2. There's slight surface rust on the turbine outlet and inside the exhaust manifold. Not so much a complete cover but tinny little dots of really light rust.

You must try to make search, it is possible to find much information. rofl

I had a look at a R32 GTR Vspec II, they simply had a flat bit of metal attached to the caster rods running the entire length. All though not as big or fancy looking as the UAS ones.

Got pics of the setup? Your running a shroud I presume? 1 big single or 2 twin thermos? My experience with non-oem thermo's have failed. 1 x 16" failed, 2 x 12" squeezed in also failed. Both were not running shrouds. It was fine in the cooler weather but as soon as it started to warm up a little the needle began heading north.

My crappy Garrett actuator came inside a Garrett turbo box all packaged up OEM like. 480009-0009 or as some call it GAR480009-0009 or GRT rated at 1bar. As listed on ATP's website They are just a lazy actuator unfortunately. Hindsight as they say. Most go the large can actuators if you want decent boost control out of an IW. 18psi Large Can (not available in AUS I believe as I couldn't find one) MTQ have the 14psi version. Identical and is near impossible to lift off its seat and important for IW's has a LOT of travel unlike the crappy Garrett item. Either that or I guess try a non-Garrett 1bar actuator. As for twin port IW actuators I was told to steer clear of them.

ROLF.. Props.

A good 9-10years ago now I had a custom 90mm FMIC kit fitted that used 2" piping (was only aiming for 200rwkw) where the hot pipe ran between the a/c condenser and the fmic then 180degree'd in to the drivers side of the FMIC. It went on to make ~300rwkw ~17psi with cams. Prior to cams 276rwkw ~17psi. At 300rwkw it was definitely a restriction but none the less it was making the power. ~260-270rwkw odd it was fine. No cutting was required = custom but unfortunately = $$.

Good to see your finally making some decent power Dave. E85 no longer being available in adelaide I'm jumping to the GT35r with a hks cast manifold and ext gate, with cams etc I'm hoping for a solid 350rwkw on pump. Aim low be happy when I make more

I was in a similar situation some time ago. I met the bloke down at his bank to pay out the loan. Saw with my own eyes, at the teller the loan was paid out in full.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4723996 SOLD Now for a bigger snail 500rwhp+

Turbo kit sold.

You dont - I will post. I have had 'heaps' of interest. Sale is pending as I have some one coming around to look at the turbo tomorrow. For pickup I'm throwing in the front pipe as I have no use for it due to the vastly different mounting position. If the sale falls through I will work through PM's based on time received.

Hi All, I Have a turbo setup thats a simple bolt up to your standard exhaust manifold for RB20DET/RB25DET/RB30DET. I'm selling as I've picked up an aftermarket exhaust manifold and going for a bigger turbo. Turbo Specs: Garrett GT3076r (aka 3037S) - Good for 320rwkw on pump or 360rwkw on E85 .6 Port Shroud Comp Cover .82 Internal Gate (XR6T Style) Parts Included: 3" Bell Mouth Dump with Bolts 4" Black Inlet Pipe 4" Black Silicon and worm clamp for turbo to inlet pipe 4" to 3" Reducer Black Silicon and worm clamps for AFM [*]Turbo to FMIC hot pipe 90degree Black Silicon and t-bolt clamps [*]10mm T3 Spacer with studs and nuts [*] Metal Oil and Water Lines [*] 14psi Bighead actuator Required to bolt up: Cut existing front pipe and weld up a 2 bolt flange -- The turbo has done very very minimal km's (5-10,000km's max) and never tracked, it was essentially tuned limped around to work and back then taken off the road. The turbo is in as new condition and still on the car. I hope to have it removed and packed ready for postage this Thursday. I will post pics of the turbo package removed when I pull it off Thurs. $1800ono - Bolt up Drive Away! Suitable price considering you get all thats needed, oil/water lines, inlet pipe and dump pipe. Please see the following pics to see what the turbo looks like fitted. Yes there is a GT3076 .82 IW under there - In this state the car made 302rwkw @ 17psi with cams and 276rwkw without cams. Yes there is a GT3076 .82 IW under there - In this state the car made 302rwkw @ 17psi with cams and 276rwkw without cams. All pics are of the actual turbo. More pics to come when I pull the turbo off on Thurs.

Hi All, I Have a turbo setup thats a simple bolt up to your standard exhaust manifold for RB20DET/RB25DET/RB30DET. I'm selling as I've picked up an aftermarket exhaust manifold and going for a bigger turbo. Turbo Specs: Garrett GT3076r (aka 3037S) - Good for 320rwkw on pump or 360rwkw on E85 .6 Port Shroud Comp Cover .82 Internal Gate (XR6T Style) Parts Included: 3" Bell Mouth Dump with Bolts 4" Black Inlet Pipe 4" Black Silicon and worm clamp for turbo to inlet pipe 4" to 3" Reducer Black Silicon and worm clamps for AFM [*]Turbo to FMIC hot pipe 90degree Black Silicon and t-bolt clamps [*]10mm T3 Spacer with studs and nuts [*] Metal Oil and Water Lines [*] 14psi Bighead actuator Required to bolt up: Cut existing front pipe and weld up a 2 bolt flange -- The turbo has done very very minimal km's (5-10,000km's max) and never tracked, it was essentially tuned limped around to work and back then taken off the road. The turbo is in as new condition and still on the car. I hope to have it removed and packed ready for postage this Thursday. I will post pics of the turbo package removed when I pull it off Thurs. $1800ono - Bolt up Drive Away! Suitable price considering you get all thats needed, oil/water lines, inlet pipe and dump pipe. Please see the following pics to see what the turbo looks like fitted. Yes there is a GT3076 .82 IW under there - In this state the car made 302rwkw @ 17psi with cams and 276rwkw without cams. All pics are of the actual turbo. More Pics to come when I pull the turbo off on Thurs.