SLAPS

What power did you run up this time around Lee?

Unreal. E85 (I presume) POWA MATT!!! Top work mate. No doubt its a handful. Mine isn't far behind for its E85 tune - I've maxed out the AFM (Z32) so in the processing grabbing a map based Link G4/Vipec. The plug in version is a bargain and the knock box is only $200. Not that you have to worry about knock with E85

An engine bay pic would not be useful as it looks like a standard engine bay. You can't see hoses or catch cans. I'm soon to rip the cams and lifters out again so I'll grab some pics of the bits underneath the manifolds. If you can visualise... The passenger cam breather that runs to the inlet pipe has be redirected in to the catch can that resides behind the a/c compressor / under the exh. manifold. The hose that runs from the drivers side cam cover to the PCV/plenum has been blocked and a T piece positioned in the middle; a hose connects to the bottom T piece connection and runs under the manifold to the engine mount where the catch can is located. Really depends on how tidy you want the engine bay to look.

IMO the Neo head is the way to go if your going to modify. Cams - Neo the duration is less however lift is up as is ramp rate due to the neo's solid lifters We should all know ramp rate and lift is the key to making good power with turbo charged motors. Duration is bad. Stock they are very similar. The increase in power is a combination of the head, cam timing + slightly larger turbine to get those gasses out a little quicker. Once we shove on a larger turbo and a pair of cams in the Neo head the Neo waves good bye to an rb25 modified with near identical mods, there's no comparison. The Neo make power easier with better average power over the hydraulic head.

Drifters catch can of choice. Serious note.. I run 2 as its neater, I'm not a fan of hoses draped over the motor. One either side of the motor feeding off that sides cam cover. One sitting in the drivers side engine mount and the other behind the A/C compressor. Since oiling mods the cans are always empty.

Exactly it... Right foot and a car that is in good nick as well as tuned nicely. I change gear at 2000-2500rpm with larger throttle openings. The car runs 15:1 afr's until it starts to make boost so even at those larger throttle openings its still running leaner afr's. I found the std PFC tune to drop the afrs in to the 12-13's as soon as the throttle was cracked open any decent amount once its out of the o2 trim capabilities. 2-2.5k it has zero issues accelerating at the traffics normal pace. Keep revs low. Don't hold gears out with super light throttle as higher rpm and less throttle input = increased pumping losses and lowered DCR (dynamic comp ratio) so decreased effiency and torque as a result. Revs low and more throttle with a tune to suit.

Damageinc, Really depends on how quick acting the diff is. You can run a factory GTR diff that has shallow ramps and locks smooth and soft. A pleasure to drive. Then jump in to one of the Nismo 2ways with a steep ramp and they lock with the slightest throttle or decel. Then there's the preload.. For the street you really don't want more than 40-50lb where as the nismos for example are up around 70 so very tight. Unless your running slicks or semi's you really don't need so much preload.

dupe....

With a little over 300rwkw mine has no issues with fuel economy. 11L/100km. Injectors are clean, zero vac leaks, new o2 sensor, new afm, std air box with 100mm cai in to the bumper and a good tune. It hasn't always been that way.. Fuel economy dropped to 14-15L/100km when the injectors clagged up and were dirty. Replace injectors and o2 sensor rough injector trim in the pfc as the injectors were larger and economy went to 12l/100, tune with new afm and 11l/100 driving to and from work in light traffic. -- My 300+ thousand km coils were arcing all over the place and breaking down with anything more than 10-11psi. Ripped out the old grey sensor safe silicon coated them all up (inbetween the bracket and every little cranny), up to 24psi and no break down. Spark plugs are gapped to 0.8. The tune had them gapped to 0.6 for good measure but I've since pulled them and regapped out of curiosity but all is good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv67yLI_jVs RB30DET (26 head) T51r. Pitty the bottom end is unable to rev (7000rpm limiter) due to the lack of a good aftermarket balancer. Bugger all lag, no need to bounce it off the limiter to get it off the line quickly.

Would be nice if cams were installed but I tend to doubt it as its near impossible to notice the loss of power down low until the cars noticeably caming over. Chances are either cam timing is slightly off OR most likely its running a thicker headgasket or the motors running a lower static comp due to being previously rebuilt. IMO

In 8years going from 110rwkw to over 300rwkw with no engine blow ups and having an rb20det gearbox hang behind the motor for 6years before it popped. I'd have to say the biggest achievement. Not getting it defected, zero speeding fines or road offences in that time!

Turbo's will be fine providing you didn't drive it too much once she started knocking. You will have to replace the oil pump though. Cheap RB30E bottom end, shove a washer from the rb26 oil pump in to the rb30's std pump to bump up the pressure a little, block the rear oil restricter, 2 low tensioners suitable cam belt, cheap headgasket and it will be fine while you spend some time getting the rb26 built back up. + you'll get to experience a little rb30 wrath. FOOOOLBOOST has done rb30 stuff before so he will probably make the same recommendation.

2" cooler piping made 300rwkw on PULP @ 17psi with cams, std exhaust manifold, std inlet. Pressure drop was fairly high and with more boost top end boost simply tails off. The dyno curve was also rather spikey and wavey, something the 100mm fmic with 2.5" piping fixes.

Back in the day the biggest difference I noticed with the dump was boost was more linear and came on at an earlier rpm providing a nice little lump of torque before boost really hit.

4+ years ago my other half had scans down at Flinders Private. Was told to bring in a VHS tape recorded the scans. Brought them home and played it over and over until I spotted its sex.

Intel > all SSD's Load times are no doubt impressive with SSD's however their write performance sucks. Intel owns in this department offering performance similar to a mechanical HD where as the other SSD's fall far behind which is where the old 'stuttering' problem individuals complain about. IMO Intel is SSD at the moment no other drive comes near it. My little old AAKS peaks at 120mb/s holds that until close to 200gb then starts to tail off achieving an average read over 640gb of ~92mb/s according to the ol' hd tach. The 'other' SSD's that don't have the issue Intel have simply suck when it comes to write speeds. Write speeds are important for a workhorse, again... SSD = great for a little lappy that doesn't see any 'real' usage. I would consider an SSD for installing a few games on but even then for the $$ its hardly worth it. Unless the other SSD's can sort out their write speeds and stutter as well as Intel sorting out their low level fragmentation issues I won't be jumping to SSD. The SSD in the Asus EEPC is great but honestly its not really noticably faster than the AAKS HD apart from booting Windows. Probably a bad example of a performance SSD in those Asus EEPC's but they are great for what they are, yes I've noticed a little stuttering with that SSD which sucks but you learn to live with it. If you don't notice any stuttering etc what SSD is it you use?

One reason to use a 'good' synthetic oil.

Here in Adelaide I've been quoted. Vipec V88 - $2475 Vipec R32 Plugin - $1765 External knock amp to suit the plugin - $235 I've seen them around cheaper (boostcruising I think?) so now to find that link again.

SSD's at this point in time are not good work drives. Issues with sector remap fragmentation degrades the drives performance over time. At this point in time the only way to fix is to wipe the drive and start from scratch again. Intel are drawing very close to solving the problem so it should be too long. Great for a lightly used laptop but definitely not suitable for a workhorse just yet.

I went a little O/T then but what I was getting at is people a modified car as possibly being thrashed and ready to fall apart when they purchase it. IMO people tend to rather save a few thousand on the purchase price and go with the stocker rather than spend an extra few thousand and save 5-10k on parts. If there was a GTR/GTST with a big single bolted on to forged bottom end.. I would highly consider its purchase if I were in the market. Doesn't stop me throwing a forged RB30 bottom end at it for 6k and a larger turbo again. Could possible save me spending $$ on ecu, afms (if applicable), possibly clutch, diff, suspension, fuel pump etc. Really depends on the cars mods, age of mods etc if buying a modified car is worth it or not. In saying that I wouldn't bother buying a setup like dirts UNLESS it was for dirt cheap. When people modify cars such as Dirts they tend to ask 10-15k over the normal purchase price of a stocker so IMO I'd rather do it myself for that cost.

IMO nothing to do with respect and pride. I bought the r32 a little over 8 years ago with the goal for it to have a built rb20 that was quick, reliable and enjoyable. I honestly thought and still think its a damn ugly car but what sold me was the drive; the chassis feedback, handling and at one with the car feel. Something the V8 Commodores can't get near. I test drove a few R33's and didn't like the feel; felt too much like a Commodore for some reason. The R32 actually felt like a sports car. When it comes to cars pride and joy really doesn't come in to it for me, I modify the car because I want it to be fast; it doesn't have bling, it doesn't have rice, big bodgy body kits or a silly sounding BOV. When I first started out I bought a stocker because I didn't like the idea of a modified car already being 'thrashed'. Having a fair experience with v8 Commodores and VL's thrashed = no end of problems. The Skylines are tough cars that take a flogging so its not so much a worry. My main niggle is spending $$ on silly little things like better diffs, ecu, injectors where as if its already done you don't have to spend as much and hear the missus complain why I have to spend 1.2k on a diff etc. We all modify cars for different reasons. You modify for pride, respect I modify for the raw thrill and challenge of holding the car in a straight line. I've been toying with the idea dropping in a VQ35 or VQ40 with a turbo or two. Even had thoughts of a little LS1 with a turbo strapped on but to be honest the LS1 is a little overkill. VQ35 or VQ40 with a turbo pushing 450-500rwkw will be more than enough and still have stellar response/spool.

People hate buying modfied cars. Having modified my own I'd snap up a modified GTR with all the supporting mods over a stocker any day.

Think of it as an R31 motor, not a VL motor. The thing I notice with the smaller capacity motors is they tend to lag a little when they grab that next gear in 'comparison' to the rb30's that feel like they keep pulling as hard when you grab that next gear there's simply no lag. A perfect street setup IMO would be an RB30DETT running the 26 head lightly cleaned up, pair of 272 cams with 10-10.5mm lift and a pair of GTRS's or 2530's depending on the power your after. Twins IMO offer better transient response and quicker boost response than the big old singles even though the big singles tend to make their peak boost a little earlier in the rpm. Ever see Keir wilsons old silver R32 GTR launch in the flesh running in to the 8's? Twins + OS 3ltr and it had absolutely ZERO issues bogging off the line in fact quite the opposite. Ripz doesn't appear to have too many issues bogging off the line either with the 3ltr, 8.5k limiter and first run out.

Sled.. Check out the new 500gb platter drives. Increased density = improved performance. I've had the older WD640AAKS since it was released. Really nice quite fast drive. Had a little scare almost lost over 500gb of data that cannot be replaced (family, pictures video etc etc), so I'm going to fast track that nas box running raid 1 & gigabit lan with a couple 500gb platter 1tb or 1.5tb drives. Will make the jump to SSD the moment they sort the fragmentation issues out.