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Make sure all air intakes are sealed properly (same problem happen on my last car) Mine only idles at 600-700 once warmed up and I've never had a problem. Factory specs say ~700. Theres prolly something else causing it to stall :confused:.

kILLER-T, Did you notice much of an improvement performance wise?? Jay, you could not have made it look easier. Sweet work!

$10 sounds like its worth doing. Do you have a cold air in take?? I left the stock one on which must help but obviously not enough.

Hey dudes, I installed a K&N pod on the weekend and now I hear sexy noises! But no power increases. In fact below 3000rpm it seems more slugish. After 4000 it seems a lot smoother then before but still very little gain. I'm putting it down to evil hot air. Could anyone with a cold air partition/intake give details of what they've done, how much it cost and performance increase?? Another thing, I can now hear the BOV nosies but it makes a pssshht sound. I've heard a few BOVs that make a kkkksshhhh sound (sounds tougher). Any ideas what brands make this noise???

I'm with Just Car. It don't matter tho, insurance compaines are a pack of KUNTS!!!!:uh-huh:

I'm with Just Car. It don't matter tho, insurance compaines are a pack of KUNTS!!!!:uh-huh:

23... for the record

Thanks heaps! The shelf looks sooooooo dodgy! What suburb you in??

While removing the parcel shelf yesterday, my hand slipped and went straight through the stocky speaker cover :hellpisd:. The covers that came with the new speakers are not big enough to cover the hole completely :hellpisd::hellpisd: , so I was wondering if anyone had a spare lying around that I could have/buy. Thanks

While removing the parcel shelf from my 33, my hand slipped and went straight through the stocky speaker cover. :hellpisd: The covers that came with the new speakers are not big enough to cover the hole completely :hellpisd: :hellpisd: , so I was wondering if anyone had a spare lying around that I could have/buy. Thanks

I have been wrong! I had a look yesterday at the stocky rears and they measured 6.5"! I was sure when I first looked that they were 6s. 6" will require more effort to install than 6.5

Not only are they gay, but they dont sound as good either. Sound travels in a spherical form thats why round speakers sound better. 6x9s will be louder though... good for hangin at maccas! :devfu:

The hole in the shelf should be big enough for 6.5s to squeeze into. The first rule of car audio is put the quality speakers up front. Front stage is what you're gonna hear while driving so it makes sense to put quality as close to your ears as possible. I cant remember the exact theory behind it but tweeters should be mounted as close to the woofer as possible. Something to do with phase difference, which means better sound. This is not always good in practice tho coz its bloody hard molding tweeters into existing panels up front without them looking dodgy. On the shelf its a lot easier. For the fronts try to aim the tweeter at the opposite person (ie aim the tweeter on the drivers side towards the passenger and vice versa). Hope that helps...

Wouldnt lowering the tyre pressure eventually slow the car down once its moving. ie once the car has been launched, the lower pressure would take kw away because more are needed to move the flatter wheel?????? :confused: Wouldnt leaving the tyres up allow the car to glide more easily towards a better 1/4 mile time :confused: ... which is what we're all aiming for.

Sorry.... I now feel like an arse.... I did have it set correctly in the begining tho, dunno how it changed....

I think the daylight saving clock is still on. All post are an hour ahead. Theres not really much point turning it off tho, only a month to go before its back on... Yay!!

Make sure that the RCA leads are running down the opposite side of the car to the power leads. And before you say "But the battery is in the boot", remember that power has to get from the battery to the engine somehow! If that doesnt work then go the filter (the bigger the filter the better).

Yeah I worked that out. They could've just said "Sorry we cant insure you." That way if I ever move to QLD I might consider giving them another call. I doubt wether they'll ever get my business now. Oh, by the way, the last line of my last post should've read "Fook 'em, insurance companies are a pack of kunts!!!" :uh-huh:

I havent measured the size but I'm pretty sure they're 6 inch all round. 6.5 will fit without to many dramas. 6x9s will require the help of Mr Black & Decker. Why did the Skylines come out with such a crappy sound system??? :confused:

.... How?? Suncorp metway offered to insure my car, full comp (insured for $16,500), for $54986!!!!:lol: Thats like ordering a pizza and the dude saying "It'll be there in 4 weeks" I think I've worked out Just Cars rating system. I got a few quotes on 22yo, S1 R33 gtst, medium risk suburb, and few minor mods. With rating 6 they wanted $3591, rating 4 $2561, and rating 1 $1078. That looks to be about $500 per rating, doesnt it :confused:. Fook 'em, Insurance companies are a

Rego for a skyline is the same as any other passenger vehicle. In victoria anyway. Usually $486.50 in high risk area (ie melb metro). It gets cheaper the further away from the city you get (but not much). Insurance = $$$$$$ for a skyline . Do a search and you'll find a million and three people here with the same problem. If you're under 25, expect to pay upwards of $1500. I think theres only 2 or 3 companies that will even look at turbo imports & under 25 "Just Cars" and "Yong and Cool". Good Luck.

On average, most cars lose a third from fly to rear. 33% of 180 odd kw is 120 odd kw.

Cut out the bonnet, take the transparency down, then add it as a new layer??

That first 1 rocks!! How'd ya do it???

Is there any way to change the rims on an angled picture of a car, keeping the wheels round (ie without distorting the shape)? Also, flood filling the background on rims sometimes takes away detail. Any other way of doing it?