Hanaldo

Hey all, I've done a search and have found plenty of information on the V44, though not much on the G4. I suspect there's a fair bit buried in threads, but that could take awhile... If there is already a thread containing the information I'm after, please point me in the right direction and shut this one down. So basically, due to issues with my stock computer pulling fuel/timing/giving DTC's etc, I'm considering the option of going to one of these full stand-alone ECU's. At this stage, I know my tuner can tune the VIPEC, have not spoken to him about the Link yet. From looking at the features, these two ECU's are very similar, which is why I'm making this thread. Could anyone with experience tuning or simply running these ECU's let me know how easy they are to tune, etc? Secondly, there are a few main features that I am interested in: 1. I want to go forward facing plenum in the future, so individual cylinder correction is important. I know the Link can do it and I imagine the VIPEC can too, correct? 2. I also want to setup tables for IAT adjustment. Is there any advantage with one ECU over the other here, or is it much of a muchness? 3. The only motorsport feature I MAY consider using is traction control, though probably won't bother with that either. I have currently got a Greddy Profec controlling boost, so may not bother with boost control through the ECU unless it is really worth it? 4. Wideband input will also be important, though I believe they can both do this? 5. Flex fuel. I want to have the possibility of setting up flex fuel in the future, I think this is where the Link may come out on top. Does the VIPEC support an ethanol content sensor too? And finally, QuickTune. I believe both ECU's have this, but exactly how good is it? It sounds great when described by the manufacturers, but is it really as easy as setting your desired AFR, plugging in a wideband and letting the ECU do it's thing or is it a bit more confusing than that? Ease of use is probably one of the more important factors, which is why I'm interested in QuickTune so much. But any other advantages/disadvantages between the two that aren't so well explained could help me out too. I will speak to my tuner this week about them, so this may become a moot point, but any help in the mean time would be much appreciated Cheers, Martin.

This thread needs cleaning me thinks; the topic is a good one, can we stay on it please? Interesting enough discussion about the 3076 etc. but start a new thread on it, don't clutter up this one.

They can, Andy did my 3" intake pipe. Must have lined it with diamonds on the inside cos he charged me 400 bucks Fairly good job though, put a bit much heat in the welds but good otherwise.

+1... Has Brad shut up shop already, I thought he mentioned Feb??

Yeh most plug in ECUs can use the stock cover these days. Can do the same with VIPEC, adaptronic etc. I wouldn't go NIStune with an R33. Personal opinion. As has been said, go read some of the threads about all your choices, there's a gold mine of info here.

And a thorough job they did of it too Lol. Yes, just re-read his post and I'm now up to date, carry on

What about 180?? I comp tested my motor a few months ago and got between 180-182 across all six. It's higher than any other result I've seen on here... Was worried about possibly carbon build up increasing the compression?

You didn't, someone else did. I don't understand where you think this air is coming from? The stock setup is a sealed system. There is no unmetered air in the system.

Perhaps if people didn't fuck around in for sale threads so much then we wouldn't need this moderation, that's how it used to be. Unfortunately it got ruined for the rest of us, so now you have to simply deal with it, as dirtyRS4 said.

What? If the catch can is plumbed back into the intake AND venting to atmosphere then you will be drawing unmetered air in through the vent and into the system. If everything is plumbed in, you can't get any unmetered air going in. Where do you think this air is coming from??

Red would also be baws...

No, the boost sensor is the one to the right of the circled one, with the grey conduit going to it. I just went and had a look at mine, the hose in question with the green circle goes to the inlet manifold and the other hose next to it goes to the charcoal canister. Have got no idea what it does though...

He did mention the car is white. Blue would look amazing. You can get sockets with an internal rubber lining to protect the paint, but really it's as easy as not using a rattle gun. If you do it by hand, the paint shouldn't come off.

Looks like one she has owned for a few years... And never washed it once

It's just a number dude, don't get so hung up on it lol. In reality, a car with 280rwkw may only juuuust get ahead of a car with 260rwkw. There can be huge differences in power and the reality of it is that there won't be a massive difference in how they feel or how quick they are, it's milliseconds.

Lol, any new guys reading this would be so confused Mark's post is pretty much spot on

lmgtfy.com

He won't work with mild mate, only uses high grade stainless.

Blue Those blue Rays with black wheels always looks amazing. Hehe... Blurays.

Black R34 GTT with a very nice induction note along Great Eastern and then parking out the front of Auto1 in Midland

Oh are you talking about the PU high flow? I was referring to the G3. Got a graph of Stao's run? I can only find the one where he made 295@18psi with that turbo.

Note he was only running 18psi, I made 289rwkw@18psi on my hub dyno run, so quite similar. I believe Stao on his 320rwkw run was boosting to 23psi? In any case, I'd say you will need to run at least 20psi to crack the 300 mark on pump 98.

I got my comp-gate 40 for $330. 44mm will be a bit more expensive though, are you sure you need it? Mine holds boost perfectly and I'm only running 18psi, if you run the full 20-23psi that the turbo is capable of then I'm sure the 40mm wastegate would be more than sufficient. Just keep an eye on eBay if you know how to spot fakes, there's plenty of genuine items on there

All engines have blow-by mate. The link you posted is different to your setup, he has it plumbed back into the intake. If you've blocked the PCV valve then you won't get the idle problems caused by leaving that hose open to atmosphere, but if you start getting blue smoke at idle or when taking off, you know what it is I was told by a very experienced RB builder to leave the PCV operational, that's enough for me.

What track cars are using that crappy can? +1 to link. Happy to be proved wrong, but I just can't see this setup being any better than stock.