Hanaldo

I agree you should change the cat, but I wouldn't say there is no point doing it, it's still better than stock. Can still change the cat later if you can't afford it straight up, but I went with a VENOM cat which is a bit more expensive. Ah dude... Do it once do it right hey. Those gaskets are like 6 bucks and very widely available. Never reuse a gasket, they are such cheap little things that can cause so much shit. I actually didn't notice much difference when I installed mine. Got it after I got my 5" hi-flow cat and 3" custom straight-cut exhaust. Only difference I noticed was the louder induction noise, maybe 100rpm of response, and it certainly didn't make any noticeable difference to power.

If you want to do it simply, tap into the wire going to the light around the cigarette lighter. That's better than splicing the cigarette lighter direct anyway, as it can overload if you use a GPS or phone charger or anything like that and blow fuses. I used to have mine like that, but have since redone them to be tapped into the headlight switch wire. Requires knowledge of a multimeter.

Connecting them up is easy as pie, guys. Took me about 45 minutes to do all 5 of mine (boost, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, wideband AFR), and I'm OCD when it comes to neat wiring so I took extra time making it all perfect.

Spotted a Silver/Grey Stagea on the back of a tow truck heading south-bound on the Mitchell at about 12ish.

Seriously though, get that sorted. It's hard to get a tool on but it's not impossible. Leaving that bolt loose puts strain on the gasket, you'll end up blowing it. I suggest changing it to an inconel or high tensile/heat resistant allen key bolt, it's a LOT easier to get on and off.

Hand... Aldo? Is that me?

Stao, did you get that piece of pipe I posted? Sent it over a month ago, so if you haven't got it I better get onto the post office.

It won't make much of a difference to your engine bay temps while you're driving, there's a lot of air moving around there to take the heat away. While stationary you will notice an increase, but it causes no problems.

1. I got a bracket welded onto mine, though you shouldn't have an issue without one if you're not tracking the car. 2. I don't run a heat shield, don't have any issues. 3. Not sure what you're trying to do there. 4. If you're running NIStune, the lack of an O2 sensor will have thrown up a code, which may have sent it into the knock maps. So if Jez has tuned the knock maps to be richer with less timing, then that would make sense. I know mine did not like to run with no O2 sensor before it was tuned out. Side note - there shouldn't be any more lag, especially not 2000rpm. If anything it should be more responsive. That sounds like an exhaust leak to me.

It's... Yeh Lol, good thing I don't drive my car daily at the moment

Of course.

Sorry, my mate and I built an R32 track car together, used to have a Greddy TD05 on an RB25DET. Just normal to use 'we' whenever I refer to it now. I'll see if I can grab the old dyno sheet from him tomorrow and I will upload. I'm not 100% sure of which model it was, it's a bit mouthy to refer to it as TD05xxxxxxxx all the time. But for those of you who can work it out, it maxed out at 325rwhp@18psi on 98 pump fuel. Full boost by about 4000rpm. As I said, we never had any boost control problems with it. Only issue it did have which could be related was at a track day, after a few hard laps the actuator arm blew off inside, so the wastegate was just flapping around inside and obviously it couldn't boost. Was a prick to fix, so $300 later it had a complete brand new rear housing and all was good. Don't think we ever drove it again with that turbo though, a forged motor with a bigger turbo setup came along and the car went down that path. *EDIT* just remembered the Greddy dump pipe that came with the kit was a terrible design as well, started as a 2.25" pipe to join to the turbo and then went to a 3" from there. Don't know if you care about that but thought I would mention it.

So am I. Making carbon fiber is not an easy thing, you need a fair bit of experience to get a top quality result. It's very very easy to use too much resin or not soak up enough excess or build too many layers etc. and then all of a sudden you have a carbon fiber part that is heavier than the part you took off. Don't take it for granted that a 100% carbon fiber part is going to be light, it depends on how it was made. That said, I'm sure the big companies churning out CF parts all day long know what they are doing. But you pay for it. Carbon fiber is expensive to make and therefore expensive to buy. I wouldn't be so confident that the cheap CF parts you see will be so good. Then again they might be. Its a gamble. Look at this for an example: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/375265-r32-dry-carbon-partsdoorsbootbonnet/ $4000 for doors, $2000 for boot lid, $2000 for bonnet, $3500 for dash... That's how expensive it is to make quality carbon fiber parts.

Was told by a very experienced RB specialist to leave it plumbed in. His 700rwhp RB certainly doesn't have any problems with it...

You can, but keep in mind that these bolts are 12+ years old now, they've seen a lot of heating up and cooling down. I considered myself very lucky when I didn't snap any of them getting my turbo off for the first time. Better to just replace them in my eyes, makes future removals so much easier. I actually changed to allen key studs on my last turbo install. Makes getting THAT bolt out a breeze

The Greddy TD05 uses the same design, we never had any trouble with boost issues. At the time I thought it was a terrible design, but it performed fine. Went very well actually. Any reason the Kando versions would be worse off?

They are M8x1.25 from memory, someone confirm??

Yeh it is probably using an R34 image. And I imagine your TRC hasnt been deleted??

Yeh see that would mean wiring everything up. I've got the throttle body and the sensor on the back of it but it's not connected to anything. Would work if I was doing what he did by going to forward facing and the stock setup was all there. May be easier to use the Stagea image if it works.

Depends a lot on how the CF bonnets are made though. If they used a lot of layers or didn't get rid of enough epoxy resin then the weight will add up. The resin actually weighs a hell of a lot, usually the peel ply they use to absorb the excess will way a lot more than the entire carbon fiber structure.

He didn't tell me anything that I didn't already know. This was his last PM to me: But I do not have TRC, it's been deleted. I have no intention of wiring it up either, I'm not interested in it and the plan is to go forward facing plenum in the future anyway where it would just have to be deleted again. I did ask him how he fixed it with TRC disabled but never got a reply.

More likely it means the seller didn't know what they were talking about. Probably thought that all Skylines are turbocharged so this one must have been deturboed.

Not any real updates as of yet, but may have figured out a possible fix for my problems after speaking with Matt from NIStune. The TCS error code is possibly causing problems by pulling fuel unexpectedly. This may be fixable by reprogramming my board with a Stagea image. The boost sensor DTC is similar story, the stock ECU needs the signal from the stock solenoid because it uses boost control tables, but that was removed when we installed my engine and the Greddy Profec. So I'm slowly working through my issues, nothing concrete yet though.

Heh, well I'm talking about each side...

Don't know how he could be more clear lol.