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BstewyR33

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Everything posted by BstewyR33

  1. Thanks for the replies lads, give me some points of looking into. I do have some bc br coilovers on my taxi, hopefully not too much damage is done
  2. ah cheers, worn bushes could be a possability. Need to get onto replacing all those...
  3. I'm fairly sure that I'm in need of a rear strut bar to stop some back end body flex. The problem occurs going up corners (say drive ways, entrances to shops etc) the noise mainly comes from rear passenger side. The noise sounds like metal twisting followed by a "ping" sound. I've had a look at suspension and it seems fine (no cracks or dings that I can see in the strut, no loose nuts) I stuck my head under the car and there was no clear evidence of something being broken or loose. so I'm thinking a rear strut brace might be in order, am I thinking right or not? Cheers in advance for any input.
  4. This was taken off sinergy motorsports website. Not sure if GTR is different Genuine Nissan bonnet bump stop to suit Nissan S13/ 180sx, Skyline R32/ R33/ R34 Nissan part no - 90878-2L700 PRICE $9.95
  5. You'll need to get the gas taken out because you undo the gas line that connect to the coil of the air conditioner. Make sure they bleed as close to empty as possible, the dickhead who did mine kept saying - yea that's about as much as its going to go, yet the needle was reading between 1/4 and empty & kept draining more and more. Just means when you come to undo the gas lines - you won't have shitloads of gas still in the system. Just don't turn your ac on when you drive home & you'll be sweet
  6. My walbro whines, you can only hear it bad on ignition. Once the car is running or stereo is on you cant hear it much. No soldering done with mine. Used the crimps that came with the kit.
  7. I used the stock wire crimped onto the eire that cane with the pump, Try jaycar for newwire, I know they've got chemical resistant heat shrink if you can't get new wire
  8. Option 1 (just got 2 16/225/50 $145 + fitting ea)
  9. It's definitely a fiddley job getting it back in the cradle, you can't go in on angles sliding it onto the guide, needs to be straight up and down
  10. the wiring didnt look too bad when i changed mine out and I just used the crimps that came with the kit, but jaycar sell "chemical resistant" heat shrink. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WH5526
  11. Try justjap. If not rhd sell them for about 16000yen ($200 AUD approx) Try ringing wreckers for cheaper options
  12. I used this tutorial to fit my walbro, pretty much the same procedure. The walbros are a fair bit smaller (width wise). I didn't cut the bottom c shaped bit off, instead used it to hold the bottom of the pump and wedged a steel nut between the bracket and pump then used the hose clamps to secure it. Make sure you double check the o ring is sitting in place correctly before tightening the big plastic ring, silicon spray on the thread helps big time! Cheers for the right up OP
  13. Ah crap - had forgotten about the pics. I'll try and find them, if not I'll jack car up and take some pics with the wheel off, hopefully it'll help
  14. Spotted & gave a toot as I pulled up next to a 4dr 34 crawling through the mind numbing traffic of Virginia/sandgate rd today in one of my many attempts of finding quicker ways home.... An hr long journey became 2 hrs....
  15. hopefully your question has been answered before now, but if not try Natrad, they should be able to get you the right one - about $150-$200 brand new
  16. I'd be hitting up the likes of JDM obsession. He should be able to get pretty much any type of bushing for you (super pro brand) Pretty sure you should be able to get a "Super Pro Handling Enhancement Kit" for a gtst - but confirm that with the shop. the main things i'd be looking at would be: F & R Castor arm bushes, F & R Control Arm bushes (inner, outer, upper & lower if available)
  17. Hope it works for ya mate - nothing worse than brakes screaming all the bloody time As I said I only get squeal after rain or after I haven't driven for a day or so & that I think it mostly caused by surface rust on the rotor (could be wrong)
  18. Permatex is the brand - but yes 2 little sachets of it - goes on all the shims, I even put it on the pins. Apply liberally. I only used about half to 1 sachet http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-Ultra-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Lube-14G/113948
  19. I only ever get the high pitched squeal after a rainy day, and only a slight squeal when it's left for a couple of days- I had my rotors machined on the car and used the green brake shim grease that super cheap sell - spread it on each of the shims. And I'm using bendix ultimates
  20. You should check out the wheel size thread (all 84 pages) at the top of the list - there should be plenty of 34s in there
  21. spotted 2 this morning a grey 32 rumbling towards lakeside and a dark 33 with fluro pink wheels in albert st
  22. should piss alot of holden & ford boys off - don't forget when scaife & (can't remember other blokes name), was it richards? they got boo'd when they accepted the winners podium spot
  23. http://www.alliedappliance.com.au/scripts/part_search.php?view=&search=Kelvinator%20kr18lg&ct=1#target If you haven't already found anything
  24. cheers for that, oil, filter & plugs should be sweet (have done that less than 5k ago) might look into doing the brake fluids & transmition fluids Thanks mate
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