scotty nm35

Just get them machined. The rotors aren't warped, just the pad has deposited unevenly onto the disk. A good thrash at the track would probably fix them too.

It sounded great going up the street mate, very nice system. We should have taken some better pics while it was up on the hoist.

I was awd though. Of course there is gains, but the rear is very small and restrictive, it won't make good top end power but midrange. It felt very weird going back to the stock turbo after the highflow, I was glad to take it off again actually. If anything, for safety, you want the boost to be low as the turbo comes on and build slowly to redline. That sharp gain in torque as boost hits is harder on engines than peak power imo but where is the fun in being safe? Mine was perfectly fine for over 4 months at 19, as long as you don't track it you would probably be fine for years, assuming the bearings are ok and you change the oil regularly. Does yours have that M35 jet sounding whine?

Same as Stagea? I have a blue one here... If not, try Newan at Import Revolution.

Lol, I ran the stocker up to 19psi and 226kw on ethanol. Kgo Ryan.

I was going to say Maltech, they made a set up for the M35 also. Not cheap though...

That is how the EMU works, not the HKS. The stock ecu and fcon aren't connected like that, it's more like a love triangle. Fuelling and timing will be completely different between the two, as will revs etc. As long as you understand the data has been fudged so you don't scare poor Theo again Alex...

Because everyone is too scared to bump the boost up. lol.

That flex joint has already started to wear, give it a few more scrapes and it will have holes so I guess the exhaust will have to be changed soon... The suspension being stiffer doesn't make the car handle better, the whole package has to be adjusted to suit. Higher spring rates, heavier dampening, stronger sway bars, bracing, the list goes on. Each will interact with the other parts and needs to be matched, even then ride height is usually not changed much. You have successfully made your car slower and more dangerous. Without getting a proper wheel alignment you are in danger of causing an accident. Your wheels will be pointing off in the wrong direction like a lazy eyed relative. If you haven't done it, book it in now before you kill someone. I don't care if you wear the tyres out in a few months as long as you change them. Bald tyres are very bad for your health. So in effect there are many reasons the police will be picking on you now, most of them safety related.

That's why I wouldn't use maps designed for other cars, you will always end up chasing gremlins in the tune imo. Post them up Alex, I would be interested to learn what the Fcon is doing to the stock ecu and that may hold the key. If I end up going down the Link G4 route I may need the same signal bending output maps... The manual transmission will open up a world of possibilities.

I assume the ground strap is to stop corrosion, I usually remove them as they get in the way. The braces I would be fitting back in place, I know they are a pain but they are there for a good reason, especially if you plan to dyno/track it. The one time I fitted 32GTR turbos for someone, the shitty old stockers I was asked to install back in had stripped threads which made the braces useless. Don't mix coolants, especially if you have an alloy radiator. Give it a good flush with plain water first then drop it again.

No two setups are the same. Try running a new hose directly from the boost source to the actuator. If that fails, perhaps try another pressure source? The .82 with a larger wastegate port should flow fine. Only by changing the dump will you know if it's a problem I guess. My GTX over-boosts with a 45mm external gate hanging off the side, but it is caused by my soft limiter backing out timing at 7300 revs.

So second tune and no gains? C'mon Theo, slap a Hypergear in there... All the stock ecu does now Alex is run the throttle and cams, nothing else has a bearing other than to keep the MIL away. I have no idea what signals the Fcon sends back to keep it happy but whatever it is, thank you mr HKS.

The ground strap goes under the exhaust manifold heat shield bolt. The brace helps stop the manifold and turbo warping, under heavy load or track work.

Injectorsonline can supply them, make sure you get the e85 one if you plan to run ethanol as the petrol one will fail.

Mmm, tried sending Scotty a PM? lol.

A new ecu won't change anything, 10L per hundred is pretty good for a 2 ton turbo car, be glad you didn't buy the Holden sportswagon then. If you feel it is still running a bit rich you could change the o2 sensor perhaps? They only last around 80,000k's apparently. BC coilovers start at around $1200 on Just Jap I think.

Lol, split dump. :facepalm: Have you checked the flapper travel with the actuator disconnected?

What's the point? It must handle like crap being that low. Did you get a wheel alignment afterwards? Any aftermarket exhaust will hang lower than the stock system, unless you go custom and ask for it to be tucked up.

Yep, it's here, I will check on it's condition tomorrow if you like.

Sounds like the attessa needs bleeding. The muffler is normal, one side open constantly, the other opens under boost hopefully. The auto is a pos. It will never be in the gear you want it to be. Get a set of BC coilovers, they are cheap and work exceptionally well.

Same here. They lost a spring. It isn't hard to do if you don't pay attention.

The clutch is still on the floor. lol. No rush, I don't have all the conversion parts yet. Soon mate...

Could be air bubbles in the power steering rack, is the reservoir full? Take it to pedders for a check?

It's hard to say without driving it but it will never be a race gearbox. I would say it's possibly normal. What worries me is that they mixed the fluids as the torque converter would have still been full of the old fluid. I would have put matic J personally, just to be sure. I have been warned off the synthetic fluids, they certainly didn't help my gearbox...