scotty nm35

Fixed with a GTX35... Sort of. Something is restricting the power output now, possibly the stock airbox, or 3 inch exhaust, or the 200 cell cat...

Correct, otherwise the BOV/Breather hardpipes would somehow be inside the intake and facing the wrong angle causing AFM reversion. I tried to make an 80mm intake that would look as stock as possible using all the stock parts. Seems to flow well too, ^^ Gregs made very good power yesterday, using the stock airbox. Got your graph up yet mate? I think you made more power though one of my rb25 80mm intakes intakes than anyone before. Usually I would be suggesting a 4 inch with pod by now, but it wouldn't look stock at all. Your car is about a stealth as 400+kw gets, and it's auto... Blows my mind what Ethanol can do.

There is more than one fuse box. If you just plug things in without testing the power pins are at least correct, you can easily blow a fuse, or worse the new head unit's reverse protection diode.

Over boosting isn't really an issue is it? Gate off the housing would be the go. Make sure it flows in the direction the gasses are traveling, not backwards like that manifold.

Just don't get Barry to weld anything for you...

Two, but who's counting.

Reminds me, I need to head over to Edge and pick up my Haltech Elite.

Major cities... Like Adelaide... Haha. No issues in Melbourne, there are probably 100+ pumps around the city and country towns now. If you buy it they will install more, if you don't they will take them away. No rocket science involved, just simple economics. Methanol... You can keep that shit. I don't want it anywhere near my car, or me. Why aren't the drawbacks of methanol ever mentioned? Range, well I get over 400k's to 45L in the evo. 10L per hundred on the open road. The Stagea is worse probably due to the lower compression.

Pretty sure it's 1/8npt like most aftermarket sensors.

The gate angle must be really crappy.

Blitz should do 300 easily on a 33, only 34's seem to have some issues with them, but it is obviously something else causing it if they work fine on some cars not others. The stock cooler will flow 250kw, how can a Blitz be no better? Cutting holes isn't the answer. Get custom piping made for the cold side if you go for the HDI.

So the bush has fallen apart? Just press the Superpro Poly bush kit into them, most of us are running them these days as all those compression bushes went years ago. RB25 core won't fit, and the stock turbine is ceramic so I can't guarantee it will last more than 5 minutes. When the turbo is that hard to remove, I wouldn't be putting anything other than a highflow into it. Are you planning to change it yourself?

Standard turbo? I really wouldn't recommend going to all that trouble of swapping it just to put an old flogged stock turbo in. I do have a few here though... I assume you meant the compression rod not training arm?

Confirmed they are the same then. Thanks Kieran.

The AFM pins probably need re-soldering. It's very common on GTR's, at least you can work out which one is faulty from the PFC.

If a boost line was off it may have hit over 60psi, mine did. Not sure about the gate you have, but Turbosmart had to re-design their spring caps to hold that boost. They made a much taller cap with springs 3 times as long, so the stiffer springs wouldn't limit the travel of the gate. If you hit the soft limit at the track, that would cause overboosting no matter what the controller was set to.

The whole idea of trickle charging is to leave the charger on the battery constantly. I don't like charging at high voltage/current with the battery connected in the car, but trickle charging should be fine.

Cut the AFM open and solder the pins, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere.

They only have one hole in some cases. The reason they idle well is the pintle is fast and light, meaning it can switch the fuel on and off very quickly, unlike the old Sard design.

Is the boost T the right way? They are a one way valve inside. I can't tell if the boost source for the turbo actuator is coming from the BOV or not, it should come from the piping.

Is it a cannon muffler? Magnaflow do a few 4 inch round barrel mufflers, not that they do much with a 4 inch hole straight through them.

It would need to be running from 0psi to get anywhere near similar results, and the tank wouldn't last long then. How have you counteracted the surge in the tank as it gets low? I still don't get what drawbacks e85 has? No dramas here for 6 years...

I fix it in situ using S/H parts, takes a couple of hours. Pretty common issue with the 2.5 and 3L.

Apparently evo's are just as unreliable when it comes to oil surge. Won't be making it there myself. Plus side, there is a Haltech Elite on it's way, just so I can log the oil pressure of course. Looks like I will need to head down the Accusump path.

Will work very well on nearly any ecu. Should idle like factory. As Trent mentioned, they are high impedance so you need to cut the resistor pack off on the RB26 and twist/solder all the wires together. http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/1000cc-xspurt-to-suit-rb26-stock-rail/