scotty nm35

A smoke test only pressurises the intake to .0001 psi, your leak may only appear at 10psi. I always use a compressor and put 20 to 30 psi in the intake, you would be surprised how many leaks I can usually find. Do you know what pressure the actuator is supposed to hold?

Sounds like your AFM has dry joint inside it then. Cut it open and solder the pins first, there is a how to on here somewhere. A new Z32 AFM and a tune would likely fix it too.

It shouldn't matter if it's not perfectly round, as long as there are no dimples in it. What's wrong with the stock piping? It is overkill for the stock power, and would probably support 600awkw at least.

The gtr rail won't accept 11mm, you need smaller adapters than that. The many hundreds I have sold have all fitted fine. What makes you think an aftermarket rail will help? Did you tell ID they were for a GTR? If so send them back.

Either put everything back to stock, or tune the car. You can't just go bumping the boost up without tuning, it will run like balls and perhaps throw a turbine wheel. It will run even worse if you have a highflow turbo you don't know about.

Have you tried cleaning them? Realistically the o2 sensors should re-tune any discrepancies out of the map anyway. Could just be different driving styles? There are many aftermarket AFM's out there, but in your case I would be buying genuine if possible. Unlikely both are faulty, if you got it on a Consult3 you would easily see if they are reading the same as each other.

You need an upgraded actuator for the wastegate.

Um... No thanks.

Those NA variable runners would love 30 pounds and 3 times the air speed. lol

That aint a standard 25 core... If you are worried, take it to Precision turbo's or somewhere, and get someone to check it out for you.

It seems like the usual 'better to not know' scenario.

Totally agree, that's why I like using the stock components. Long runners to help with midrange, then cram more boost in to bring the top end to where you want it. Mucking around with head ports and runner sizing, even if calculating it with flow analysis programs, you would either need access to a flow bench or have temp probes in each exhaust runner and hope any flow differences can be adjusted out. Much harder to match 6 ports than 4.

I don't understand why your injectors don't fit the stock rail, there should be no need to drill the rail out to match the injectors, in fact you would be mad to as it would never seal. Can you take a picture of what you bought? I am sure I can point you in the right direction...

It has to be the dual din controls yeh? I have two sets of integrated controls...

He probably just upgraded the pump, the 32 is getting pretty old now, no-one relies on 20 year old pumps when tuning.

The M and V series actually use nylon hose, sort of heat shrunk over the steel hardlines to connect to the tank lid, these would be perfect but the nylon hose would have to be perfectly sized for the fitting. They are impossible to remove without cutting and not the most flexible, but they are e85 safe. I would usually just run the Aeroflow rubber lines, the outer layer will likely crack, but the rubber inside seems to be taking the ethanol quite well. Shouldn't weep, but then I have never run rubber lines inside the car. Otherwise just buy an aftermarket anodised tank lid with AN fittings? I just made my own. I have never heard of clamping the teflon braided hose, only the rubber one.

I looked into it, apparently 220psi stock. I was looking to bump that pressure up a bit in the Stagea.

Only the MAP sensor on the BOV pipe is causing the code, and it means the sensor is seeing 21psi or more. Looks like your gauge is out by a fair bit. The cut will be AFM, it isn't just a voltage cut, it cuts at lower voltages depending on the cell it's in on the map at the time.

Is this what you are after? it mates the stock reg with an aftermarket rail. Or just find a replacement stock rail and get the correct injector adapters... and a new mechanic.

Speak to Craig (Jetwreck) about the turbo swap, or get him to have a look at the car for you. Turbo replacement is very common, and expensive if you get quotes from the wrong mechanic. My guess is they got a 5k quote and now just want rid of it.

Sounds like AFM or boost cut. Both can show up at weird times as the turbo is much larger now, more airflow for the same boost. Definitely get it on a Consult3 and let us know. If there is no real error showing up, it could just need a tune as it's hitting parts of the map it was never supposed to. Which highflow did you go for? It might be time for an Emanage...

Where are you Valf?

Damn good deal Craig. Looks like you install turbos for free these days.

Not really. Have a look down the back of the drivers side head, there is an alloy crossover pipe with a single wire temp sensor tapped into it. Just make sure the plug is on nicely. Other than that you may need an auto elec, either the wire, sensor or dash gauge itself is faulty.

Such effort... How do you really know the K's are genuine? Do you have a price in mind? Any pics to help with the sale?