scotty nm35

Probably easier to import directly from Japan, as the parts will be cheaper. You can try Jesse Streeter too. Worst case let me know, I can ship those parts over to you if you need them urgently.

With the dollar the way it is, locally modified and warranted injectors are a much smarter option, considering they are exactly the same Bosch injector. Unless you like paying the ID tax...

Well, looks like the power switch has nothing to do with the TCU, it must go to the ECU then down the CAN line, or perhaps just the ECU is doing all the adjustments directly. A lot of it would be throttle control and timing alterations anyway, for gear shifting.

That would be in limp mode, there is no point changing anything until you know the code. I assume it's nearly impossible to find a Consult3 unit up there? I suspect the wiring is hooked up in the shift mechanism or something is shorting out. Similar faults happen when the trans fluid is too hot, so it could be the temp sensor or wiring. Might pay to drop the sump and check the imprters didn't fluck something up.

I have seen many f*kd up compliance conversions, Halogen foggies as the low beam is not only dangerous but totally goes against their own regulations, yet it's more common than you think. Leave the HID's in place ffs, who cares if there are no squirters, they only disperse light you over-regulating government tossers.

Well the same TCU is in the V35 which has a power switch, I can only assume they left it out in the Family wagon version. The switch input may still be there unused though... I have the Jatco transmission service manual here, I should look to see if the pin is marked 'Power mode'

Don't use 'belt grip' or any other spray on products, just replace the belts and tension correctly if you don't want to spend hours cleaning your pulleys.

What's your location Bartjan?

I wouldn't stress too much, most of the 1000's sold these days are 750cc injectors with the pintle cap removed. They spray perfectly well, and work better for e85 imo than the long nose 900cc injectors he linked, and cheaper. Marketing hype...

Much the same imo, as you say paint it matt black, I even stenciled a Nissan logo on one for a customer.

So you don't need a quote anymore I assume Josh. Did they tell you about the wait times?

Been running the torque converter with no lockup for 6 years now, I can't stand the way it locks up constantly in manual mode (nor can the trans). It's a pwm signal, not hard 12V, although that's what I used to throw at the solenoid on the dyno. Now I just leave it off. Fuel economy, what's that? Edit: Looks like Mike has a bit to learn with regards to the RE5. It isn't anything like the RE4.

10k on a turbo/supercharger kit would get you there, but you can only run a few pounds without building the engine.

Are they massive, like the plumbing ones? I have seen fuel hammer that bad it changes afr's dramatically, as have a few other tuners I have spoken to. Do you have a link to the ones you found?

Have a look through these. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424634-waste-gate-on-standard-manifold-vs-waste-gate-on-turbo/page-1?hl=external%20gate%20stock%20manifold http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451509-external-gate-in-exhaust-housing/?hl=external+gate+stock+manifold#entry7440440 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421858-gt30iw-fitting-hardware-whats-goodbadugly/page-1

Not the first time I have heard of fuel line hammer, especially running large injectors. As there is no such dampener I have found for large diameter AN lines, I was either thinking to make or modify an existing plumbing anti hammer device for the job, or just run rubber lines which take the pulses out. Only seems to be an issue with teflon or hardlines. Yep, even the Stagea tank would need modification to fit the smaller mats in. I don't imagine any modern car would have room around the pickup.

hahaha.

Quad GTIR throttles. Extractors and exhaust 3 inch intake... etc.

No idea with the JDM rails, I know the Plasmaman rail injector holes are smaller than the original GTR ones, not larger. How would an 11mm injector fit into a 10.9mm hole? it needs to be half a mm smaller, not larger. I suspect they are just saying '11mm rail', but when you actually measure them they would be smaller.

Well if they don't fit, you should send them back right? There should be no need to drill the rail, it would need to be reamed not drilled, but that would take it back to bare metal causing rust. The adapters for the 14mm injectors step down to 10 or 10.2mm not 11, probably easier to machine more off the injector instead, as ID should have done in the first place. I suspect you will have the same issue with any aftermarket 11mm rail. The reg adapter I showed works on any 8an rail though.

I usually just drop the AFM and shove an 80mm bung in there. Depends if you have a sealed breather system or not.

I just start with the free options to try, and work my way to the expensive parts, unless you can find spares you know work.

Check the fuel pressure on cranking, if the check valve in the pump is faulty it will take a while to prime the rail.

Those would only work with 14mm injectors yeh Trent? I can only assume he bought the 11mm machined down full length injectors from ID. This thread is useless without pics.

I would be pulling the cover off and checking before driving any further.