scotty nm35

That kit won't just bolt in, not unless they have made different rail spacers. Do you have a link? Where is the kit from? Also the lower plenum adapters won't fit into the stock plenum without changing the Orings to thinner ones. The rail kits are designed for Greddy plenums.

Once your missus drives an M35 I know what you will be buying...

No point tuning it with a leak... Get some PVC bunnings fittings and an old tyre valve, then head to the local servo.

Bung in the intake, where the AFM goes, then fill it with compressed air. Should find any leaks at 10psi or so. Don't fill it too much you might pop something. The same dry joints can occur on the factory afm, not hard to pull the lid off and resolder them, just in case. There is a how-to on here somewhere.

Evo Brembo's have a much larger pad than the 32/33/34 GTR brembo's, hence why the Alpha gear is a good option, especially if you can get the evo 10 floating rotor. Have you looked at Ksport upgrade kits? I picked up a set second hand, 8 piston kit for $700, better than both those options for track work. The Nissan Brembos aren't much of an upgrade over the Sumitomos in my opinion.

Are you able to ship the V35 airbox and window motor by any chance? Do you have pics?

I would suggest you run it up on the dyno again, something isn't right. Perhaps a boost leak? Pressure test the intake before you go to make sure, it's not hard to make an 80mm bung. I have had a few faulty Z32 afm's lately, they get dry solder joints inside, but that isnt a regular thing, the fault would come and go usually, randomly. I have also had to replace a few Z32 afm plugs lately, as most guys buy old VL/300zx ones from the wreckers and the pins are bending/corroding. The new plugs I use are sealed unlike the old style Z32 plugs. If you have a Z32 afm it could be worth looking at...

^^ pretty common these days, us Vic guys have been using as many stock parts as possible for years, stealth power is the goal these days. 400wkw is easy for the stock airbox with a good panel filter, I have seen nearly 500kw on a GTR box, but it did make 20kw more with the lid and filter removed. A Z32 afm will bolt straight up to a gtt airbox, you just need to solder a (new) plug on for it.

Are you on the stock ecu, no tune? If the ecu isn't kept happy it will dump fuel and back out timing. The fuel will then burn in the manifold artificially raising the boost as the wastegate can't bypass enough gasses. My suggestion is to get a Nistune board installed.

Depends on a lot of variables, you need good voltage to it with thick wires, and your fuel pressure and boost has a lot to do with flow output. I would usually expect 300kw on e85 or 400kw on 98 from the Walbro 255's.

What was the name of the trans specialist down here? Are you sure it needs reprogramming? They would normally read the data off the old ecu and swap it back on to the new one once the valve body was replaced, using the Consult3, via the OBD2 connector.

Means the K's are wrong unfortunately too, but if the condition is all good go for it. It's a good time to buy, they seem to be selling so cheap these days, and it's a great car for the money.

Reg lines around the wrong way? Gauge on the return line? Something isn't right. We need pretty pictures...

It takes 5 minutes for a Nissan mech to reprogram, from what i am told. They just chose to put it in the too hard basket I think. No way a mechanic would disassemble the auto, they would pay a trans specialist to do that usually. Likely you can swap the complete valve body, but if it is indeed keyed to the vin you should be able to swap the ecus over easy enough after removing the valve body again. Pretty sure the valve bodies are the same as the series 1 M35, with just the ecu grafted on, it's been a while since I did a series 2 shift kit, I don't remember many differences.

No, you would be surprised how many differences there are between the body looms. Engine loom is all the same, but the boost sensor comes off the harness on the drivers side of the bay where the headlight wiring goes, it is bolted near the strut tower. Pretty sure we found the plug for the triple gauges, tucked up under the stereo wiring. I will have to ask the owner I forget. I just remember having issues getting a signal from the Attessa computer.

Aus Nissan dealers have the exact same consult 3+ software, sounds like a load of crap to me. I am sure my mate at Dandenong Nissan could swap it over if it was going to be a problem, that's their job after all. I have changed over a heap of VQ25det RE5 gearboxes without a drama, I didn't expect you would have issues with the RE5 in the series two, worst case you swap the ecu's in the sump? Mechanically the rest is exactly the same. Did they drop the pan at all, or was it just too hard? Just have to measure a few resistance measurements, the consult 3 shouldn't be required.

I think Ryan cracked the shits and deleted all the pics.

The boost and volts will, but we can't find the torque output at the attessa ecu at this stage, perhaps there are 2 different attessa computers, similar to the dash? You might have more luck.

The loom may be, but the torque signal isn't. (even at the attessa ecu i'm pretty sure) You will need to run the boost signal into the cabin, volts will be fine of course.

The 1300's are only available through ID, but the 1700's are sold locally also. Not cheap though. I was hoping to try them out in the evo but the 1400's I have currently will be fine with the Haltech elite i'm sure, and nearly half the price.

Including tires? Good luck Chris...

The only ecu options available and proven is the Emanage piggyback, or the HDI Maxrom afm signal bender. (unless you can find a discontinued VQ25det specific loom for the HKS Fcon Vpro. This is by far the best option, and the most expensive) The Adaptronic has issues, as does any other standalone at this stage. Personally it's hard to go past the Emanage Ultimate in Melbourne at least, as there is a tuner here willing to touch it. The Osirus dongle can't read our map, it just comes up as jibberish, corrupt data, as ours isn't the same OBD2 protocol as they are used to dealing with. We tried this path years ago and nothing has changed to my knowledge. What are your power goals? I can suggest the best option for you that way.

Yes. Don't bother.

Usually it's just bad connections.