scotty nm35

Trans is in limp mode? I would be re-checking all the plugs under the dash if you removed the loom with the engine, and perhaps the plugs on the auto.

You are looking at the wrong pinout diagram, I had one translated in Japan which is more accurate than Danwatt's http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323254-m35-ecu-pinout/page-3 ECU_PINOUTS 13_12_10 (2).PDF

There is enough room usually to get 2.5 inch piping up past the radiator, if you cut the shroud a little. You can also run it behind the intercooler and back to the factory piping. No need to make your car defective these days, especially if it has an airbag as it can't ever be engineered.

I just changed a turbo on a Stagea with 250,000k's, good chance the ones failing at 70,000 have had a haircut on the boat on the way over. If looked after with regular oil changes, a Garrett core should last 200,000k's comfortably. The turbo can be highflowed for $880, not that expensive really. I only drill the banjo's on highflowed turbos with bush cores, as ball bearing turbos don't like being flooded, they only need a trickle of oil. If i was going to sell a car with turbo problems, I would sell it at auction. Hence why a lot over here have issues imo.

I would say 2-3 hours to do both sides properly, there is a fair bit of crap to remove, and you want to get it right. Rushing it will result in doing the whole job again when it leaks.

Meh, Facebook aint gunna make an NA fast. In before east west RB25det.

They look nice and comfy.

^^ Totally agree, unless you need more pump flow. I usually lower my base pressures as I always go overboard on injector sizing anyway. Can make it easier to tune large injectors also. Just remember Dale, the fuel pressure raises by one psi for every psi of boost. If you run 45psi base, and add 35psi boost, your WOT fuel pressure is around 80psi, past the limit of what most pumps want to flow efficiently. Hence I drop my fuel pressure to 35psi, as it's wasn't unusual to see 40 psi boost on the soft limit. If you google a few common pumps and what they flow, most don't like anything much over 70psi, the flow drops right off. For most guys it doesn't matter as their boost level is reasonable. Most injectors get lazy at high pressure too, taking longer to open, sometimes intermittently due to the pressure pushing on the valve shaft. It would get worse the larger the injector I suspect. Anyway, the stock Skyline fuel system is well sorted and can bypass enough to run a Walbro 460L pump, which could flow near 600kw on 98 I suspect. The same can't be said for the Evo, every car is different, that's why if you are going to muck around with regs and large pumps you should really be monitoring the fuel pressure on the dyno just to be sure. Ditch the stock fuel filter though, they aren't usually up to the task. If you want a good injector, the new ID1300's or the Bosch 1650's would be the pick, twice the price of a set of modified 1000's though. All are long term ethanol safe, unlike the 2000cc gas injectors.

I have a valve body here with a solenoid fault, not sure which one, perhaps you could grab one off that. Otherwise, just swap the valve body off a SH box, they can be had for $100 sometimes. (or simply change the box over)

Water in the IPDM unit most likely, the unit behind the battery in the upsidedown case. Pretty common for the battery compartment to flood with water and short the IPDM, the bung in the bottom gets blocked with crud, and when you go around a corner it sloshes all over the relay board and IPDM ecu. Just pop the large bung out (under the battery tray) and it can never happen again. Should come good once it dries out, unless it blew a fuse on the IPDM board. I bet you didn't check those fuses...

Get it on a hoist and start thumping parts to replicate the vibration, if it's exhaust it shouldn't be hard to hear. Run the car on the hoist if it makes the noises at idle, and use the hose in your ear trick to pinpoint where it's coming from.

It's not hard to better the factory strangle pipe they call a dump, but I will happily take the compliment, thanks Toby.

Water expands when you heat it, it has to go somewhere... Sounds like you got it hot, very hot. Not the first car to have overheating issues getting thrashed at the track.

Machining the little holes on the tip of the injector can help with a bit of extra flow through them, except in the case of the injectors you linked. With them it makes no difference. How critical is 1% flow to you? What if it was 10% less on one cylinder, what do you think the outcome would be? Bosch tell me there can be up to 10% flow difference with the new e85 injectors, similar to the older 2000's.

Takes a lot of wastegate spring to hold 30psi. What is the base pressure it's holding? Never used a Greddy gate, but a 3 inch exhaust won't be helping either.

Those are unmodified Bosch injectors, 900cc @ 3bar. Pretty good price, but Ebay... Don't get me started. I just hope they flow matched them.

It's the cam actuators, have a search on here I have covered it a few times, check the V35 section. Do you know what oil grade he is using in the engine?

No worries mate. Like I said, you are welcome to call, that dump is a bit of a biatch.

The wastegate not sealing shouldn't make much difference in the top end, most internal gates have issues keeping the boost below 12 or 15psi with the gate wide open, at full noise, once tuned. Of course a larger wastegate has a lot of area and a stiffer spring is required to counteract the extra pressure acting on a larger area of puck. I would suspect a major leak still, perhaps your BOV spring isn't stiff enough, or the vac line is leaking? Try the coke can trick underneath the BOV flange to rule it out. When you pressure tested the intake, how did you do it, and to what pressure? Perhaps not pressurising the intake but the intercooler piping only will show the fault better?

Just looks like an Aeroflow rail kit to me, unless the pictures don't show the short spacers and second set of Orings? I can only assume Garage7 are buying the whole kit including injectors from Aznew, which is my supplier, and they don't include either. I need to make the spacers to suit the short 40mm injectors. Call them and ask, it's the only way to be sure.

Even if the k's look close on the last two shakken results, they only store the last two in their system apparently, which can be another issue altogether. With a Nismo dash that was never a factor option, you can be guaranteed it's out, but do you really want to know by how much? Almost every import owner I know has relied on the fact they are all wound back, and goes by condition rather than K's.

Ah, Garage7 in the watermark. Ring them and ask? I doubt they will know what you are talking about, and it will be your mechanic's problem when it doesn't fit, which you will have to pay for.

Someone leave a rag or something in the cooling passage or hose?

It's all done on the Consult3 Toughbook, no need to move desktop computers Cam. Yes there is only one program, and they need to change the software to JDM but a good diagnostic tech can do that easily.

If there is a rust blockage somewhere in the cooling system it needs to be cleared somehow, I would probably flush it with the hose then fill it with half vinegar and half water, that should eventually loosen any built up crap in the block and heater core or lines. Not sure how long to leave the vinegar in there, depends on the amount of crud, otherwise you will need to drop the engine again perhaps? It's worked for me in the past to break down the rust. Did they acid dip the block when they rebuilt it?