scotty nm35

The bottom tank is still quite warm though. What you want is to run the aircon lines to the fuel tank, and have it automatically switch on as required.

Pretty sure Newcastle has a couple of pumps, not sure if there are more country NSW pumps around atm. United has a great app for finding them, but a lot of the newer pumps aren't listed. If you tune on United you should have no issues running Caltex eflex, even without the sensor...

Unfortunately that attitude is common from you NSW guys, which is why the rollout has stalled up there I think. They won't put more pumps in unless you use them, catch 22 I guess. I used to use a drum and pump at home, filling it with jerries. Where there's a will... We have over 100 pumps down here now I believe, country servo's included. A lot aren't even listed on their websites.

Tyres or wheel bearing.

Good chance the crank sensor is dirty or faulty if the car isn't starting when cranking. If it's not cranking that's a different fix.

I think that's the point, there are so many good aspects to the fuel that most don't take into account. The 30% extra torque, the clean engine internals, clean exhaust and rear bar, plugs that never foul, less carcinogenic emissions causing lung conditions... Researching the fuel on here won't give you anything other than "more power is good" I would be google searching for other benefits, there are plenty.

Every tune is different, and most tuners won't put the timing into an e85 tune, because the power is usually shooting up by that stage and they don't want to damage your engine. Why don't you speak to the guy doing the tune, as he would have a better idea of how hard he is willing to lean on it... From my experience you are looking at around a 15-20% gain on ethanol, possibly more if the tuner is willing to lean on the timing. Doing so will cause exponentially high cylinder pressure, which can easily lift heads and crack blocks. If you want more power I would be simply leaning on the turbo harder before running more timing. There is very little difference in response from my testing, but the midrange will certainly improve. All in all a great way of making extra power with more protection, by simply filling at a different pump, why wouldn't you run it...

No, they seem to work fine. I only realised the SR regs were too small after having idle issues on petrol after installing a 460L intank. Checked the pressure and found it way too high. Perhaps the RB's will be fine as there are 2 more injectors bleeding fuel pressure off...

Correct, the entire map will probably be rich now.

I suspect hot fuel may also cause the black gunk I sometimes see around injector tips on e85 cars. Molasses is a by-product of the sugar refining process, and that's just what it looks like.

You could easily run a Walbro 460 in the surge tank with a few small mods. If you want a large external, make sure you can control the speed so as not to overheat the fuel. Something ecu controlled like the Fuelab with PWM input is perfect, other brands will require a separate controller.

Are you sure it isn't your long term and short term fuel trims? If the AFR's are scanning rich then lean many times a minute it sounds like they are doing what they should. Try swapping the sensors over to see if they move banks...

Bigger the better. A V8 cooler core should do the job, but it will be a tight fit behind the HDI. I run a 30 row 50mm oil cooler, with a 10 inch thermo. The fluid runs through a thermostat to keep the trans warm in winter, and the fan only kicks in at high temps, or as required using a switch. Sounds like overkill but once you have blown a couple of boxes you will probably think it's undersized like I do.

Exactly, that is how we found the flow was dropping off. You have no idea what is happening without a gauge on the feed line, and you need to be on a dyno if the gauge is in the engine bay. Speaking of which, it seems some factory regs can be too small for the 460L pumps, they don't bypass enough. The S15 I worked on recently was tuned at 60psi at idle, no wonder the car wouldn't idle well with twice the fuel pressure it should have had. It is definitely an important test that should be checked after any major fuel system mods.

I have had a few 34's doing the same thing lately on ethanol, large injectors suddenly maxing as the fuel flow drops off. As Greg said, we removed his filter while it was on the dyno and the entire fuel map went rich. His Ryco had only recently been changed too. We replaced it with a stainless mesh filter.

How's she sound Ben? Did you get any pics?

I think it's H1, the plastic 90 just pulls off the bottom of the bulb. Had me stumped for a while too.

No need to watch the needle at 180+, you need to be looking at the track in front of you.

I use Ryco Z411 due to it being cheaper, but Z445 is the correct PN. Realistically most 20mm threaded filters will work. Or do as Chris said, use the wrench off K+N 1008. Makes for easy removal.

Heater off. Fill the rear bleed point with water. Repeat when cold. Or buy my coolant mod.

One thread is enough.

Airlock. You need to bleed all the air out, I use a large syringe to fill the rear bleed point.

Jams shut, car goes better. Where is the downside?

You are probably blaming the fuel for another issue. Pressure test your pipes again disco.

Not that brand, but the Kando is the same casting I think.