scotty nm35

The 10w60 Nulon was on special too, I picked some up when I bought the Edge Ti bottles.

I would kindly offer but I have a few other cars to finish first. Hopefully someone else can help you. Personally, if I was removing the ceramic turbos, I would replace them with brand new -9 Garretts, not old shagged oem turbos. It's hard enough to do the job once without finding out the replacement ones are stuffed and doing it all again. When the OEM ones let go they often take the engine with it, it's just not worth the risk imo.

My new 8 piston Ksports are bloody great... I assume they do rears?

Just add the approximate percentage of petrol and you will be fine, err on the side of rich and you will be more than safe enough. (your cold start will probably improve ) A wideband is a good idea for these situations, my new WB kit only cost $130us... Shame the Caltex boffins are shutting it down, but I guess it just isn't viable for them now that United are in on it.

Did you check the oil level? Where are you located? I have a Consult 3 unit here...

I had no issues, never removed anything, other than that large hose under the throttle... Easiest injector install I have done.

Probably low voltage, either run a separate power feed through a fuse and relay, and earth the - neg side, or simply bypass the FPCM like Johnny mentioned. Have a search, there is plenty of info on the subject.

A pump swap shouldn't change anything, so if you are having issues, either there is a leak in one of the hoses, or the pump isn't getting enough power. Did you run a direct power feed through a fuse and relay like you are supposed to with any aftermarket pump? If not, that's where I would start. Check out the Howto.

Consult 3 can help though, it can disable coils and injectors to pinpoint the issue. Nothing you can't do from under the bonnet though. Have you changed the plugs? LFR7aix Make sure the coils are plugged in properly, sometimes they missfire if the plug isn't pushed right in. Make sure the plugs are on the correct coils, this is easy to mix up on the VQ. The VQ25det coils are very reliable, and the one faulty coil I saw (in 6 years) threw an ignition error code. More likely there is something else wrong. Check the condition of the plugs first, they usually tell the story.

Nice job Johnny, I can make up kits now using the 1400's but still don't have the spacing required to fit the ev14's. Next time a 33 comes down for some I will sort out the rail spacing for those too. The fact you can install the top feeds without removing the plenum is great.

All you need is the valve body, no need to swap the box... I have an auto here also. Send it to MV and get a shift kit fitted before you swap it over.

Water in the battery compartment is the usual suspect with electrical issues. Good chance it isn't draining properly, filling with rain and shorting the relay box.

BR's, mainly as it would be half the price.

Enough to stop pump cavitation at 8k revs.

Stock airbox ftw. Pods are ghey.

It won't matter how tight the bolts are done if you don't fix the coolant issue. Surely you would have known about that with your VQ racing expertise?

Agreed, which is why I said 40 or less micron, paper being 10 micron. Realistically you want any particles fine enough to flow through the injector, otherwise you are just blocking filters for no reason. If the particles are going to get trapped in the filter down inside the EV14, then you obviously need to filter it out. I know 40 micron works, as I have not had an issue running the 1000's, and have never cleaned my mesh filters in the years I have been on ethanol. Anything finer will obviously need cleaning (or in the case of paper elements, replacing) more regularly. 40 micron is pretty fine still.

Whatever they came with was perfect for the road. If it was a track car I would have stiffened them up a bit, but they ran ok at PI and Sandown with the dampening set hard. I bought the first set of V1's, the BR's weren't available afaik when I bought them.

I don't think a filter can possibly get completely blocked in a few weeks, to the stage you cannot blow through it. I suspect the Ryco's have a sealant which is breaking down causing the blockages. Just run a stainless mesh filter of 40 micron or less, it will handle the ethanol long term.

I only fitted the ARP's after running unlimited boost, lifting a head. I also ran the car hard for a year before the head gasket finally let go in a big way on the dyno. Like you say the extra meat of the bore is what helps us VQ25 guys, comparing it to the VQ35 is silly, they are very different as you have found. OEM gaskets here, with extra Hylomar spray. 105nm sounds like a lot on stock bolts...they will have twisted nicely. Did you lube the threads at least, and clean the threads in the block?

Yep, the Nismo works well with an Emanage Ultimate, although the timing is very aggressive.

There is no chance a cannon will be quiet, but if you leave the restrictive mid muffler in place it should be ok noise wise. Without the mid, no chance. All they will do is mig the muffler on the back and make some dodgy hangers. Good chance they have never worked on an M35 so they are only guessing time wise. Throw the Blitz bov in the bin, they only work on cars running map sensor tunes, not afm's. There is a good reason they are illegal, and it isn't the gay noises they make.

^^ This. Bolt that head down hard with some 625+ or L19's. And don't come crying if something lets go, it's bound to happen eventually. Even a popped cooler pipe makes a great mess at that pressure.

Pretty sure it needs to be a PWM, the regs have a pulsed output. Dropping dc power onto the pwm input just puts it in slow speed. Don't run the Fuelab at full noise for more than 10 minutes, it won't like it at all, and using the existing pulse width controller you have will stuff it. Stick with the fuelab reg for best results, less tuning required too.

Often? I've had mine at 150C at the track on many occasions, it never lifted or warped the heads, even at 40psi up the straight... Being alloy block changes things, as the expansion rates are similar, unlike iron block/alloy heads. If the heads are warping that bad there is an airlock causing no coolant to flow, which is the common VQ fault I tried to alleviate with my coolant mod design. As the bore and heads overheat they cause flash boiling which exacerbates the problem.