Kinkstaah

If listed all the go fast bits on my car, people would think AMAGAD BUILD THREAD??? but it performs rather.. averagely. Not bad, just averagely. It has Tomei type B's in it (engine is 2.8L), adjustable cam gears, and I'm not 100% certain that it's all the way it should be. It probably isn't actually wrong, but I doubt it's completely right so it'll bug me until it's checked. I've also read many places on SAU that having an adjustable exhaust cam gear is of benefit. So I got one, with my cams, and no one has ever actually adjusted it to see if it does anything. Just a "she'll be right mate its designed to be on +0" in which case why even make the item?

Can't outrage/outoffended fury dat calm logic.

Worked at a religious organization for awhile (am atheist) Wasn't actually that bad. Some raging internal emails about what people should do about X, or Y, or Z or view A were hilarious to witness though. Like watching two five year olds argue when they're both hilariously wrong.

It is, but its not 'hard' and there's no mystery to any of it. You'd think my money was as good as anyone else's.

It's niggly things that require welding, (sender units for gauges), and wiring etc. Map sensor, Wideband controllers, maybe some dyno time to see the differences in a manifold and gate (assuming these help, typically they should), crap like changing a wheel hub/bearing etc, cam timing, cam gears, valve adjustments. Simple stuff, just annoying/time consuming, basic but stuff you want to know is done right, because I can't be confident it was right in the past. I had actually planned to do this initially, at least the welding parts! But I was told "they can do everything" by the shop, so I said here's a big well detailed list with info, let me know. If all else fails I will actually park it outside Scotty's and just ask him to let it get stolen.

Yeah, I won't be a troublesome customer, I typically am not and pretty chill given experiences in the past. (all nightmarish) Just annoying if you call a month in advance, deliberately holding off until someone will be available to work on it

Drop car off somewhere for some simple stuff done, wait a week, call to see how its going, get epically disinterested response. Gotta love Melbourne mechanics.

This is exactly what I plan on doing if I melt anything again, bypassing the plug itself. The wire inside the tank running to the pump itself seems to be rather thick and 'beefy', if it melts I'll get really ragey again and just wire directly to it. If I go to that extent, I may replace the wire inside of the tank because I'll be in the vicinity anyway.. CAN CONFIRM 7.5 AMP WIRE WILL MELT SHIT IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM WITH A 460LPH PUMP. (this is bad) I would have taken a photo of the remains of the fuse, but it crumbled to pieces like dust when I touched it.

Changing the pump should do absolutely nothing if you're upgrading pumps. Keep in mind you'd want to check your wiring when using a 460L - I've had wires melt twice due to some shoddy worksmanship on mine.

They are termed GT and GTS and GTST and GTT for a reason after all

dat cool change.

I have had an 040 die, and yes it buzzed loudly before it did it. The filter is kind of crap - It is NOT removable. You can clean it out a bit with brake cleaner and the like and put it back in. It's really very thin and there isn't much space behind it. I removed it (after cleaning it 2-3 times) and the damn thing died about 1km away. The difference between completely clogged and completely clean is very very VERY minimal (visually) I never noticed my car do anything other than run until the pump flat out died. If you're way down on power, and banging and popping and backfiring, well I have a pump I can sell you

The truth is if they do it right, you can't tell anyway.

I'd wager the theory is intake heat causing pinging.. the issue is crazy pinging when it shouldn't be, I believe a few people on page 1 were mentioning IAT as well as a likely potential cause. Seeing the two dyno sheets with different turbos almost being exactly the same, for the same reason (ping city) would also encourage something intakey.. and the intake hasn't changed and neither has the problem

So to summarize - It won't take timing, but WILL hold boost but refuses to take timing as the revs climb? Does it take less timing the higher the RPM it's getting? Is it simply not making power because feeding the appropriate amount of timing into it will result in ping city? How much power does 8-10 degrees of timing get you anyway?

Can confirm - RB25/26 Pistons will result in a HIGH compression ratio on a neo. Source: my rb29 stroker kit with compatible pistons. (they aren't) Also good to see the results of the ATR, given I was going to try something almost identical, (or a SS4-5 compressor) and 30psi. If my car stops exploding.

Yes, the previous owners of this car and my daily are both dead. There is a running joke that the cars ARE cursed and they break until you sell them, then they kill you after and it continues. I've had it 6 and a half years, and done 25,000ish kms. Its supposed to be a daily doing ~40km a day Also the tow cost $532.

I have and/or had a brand newish (5000kms) walbro 460l.. I am rather unlucky at cars. It's rather dark out here looking for a tow.

Be me Drop r34 off for transmission work, before 6 week holiday rattle abounds (auto) Told 1 week Told no problem Go on trip, life is awesome for weeks Return Car not ready, can't find part over christmas Ok Still have daily, eta 1 week Daily dies 1 day later Shit. Obtain many lifts Pick up car on birthday Pay 2000 Car dies 20 minutes later on highway due to dead fuel pump 5km from barwon prison when you live in eastern suburbs Hope your day was better!

I thought the 'best" way would be to have a turbo outlet force feed into a roots/screw type charger inlet, then the charger outlet into the intercooler. At least in my crazy fantasy world

Thanks GTSboy for that gem of a post. Layman's way for me to understand it is (this came to me while stuck in a mall) The same weight is pressing the tyre into the road, be it 195, 265, or 335 in width. This is why the contact patch is the 'same' (but different shape) Unless your 335 rims weigh a metric ton vs the 195's there won't be any more force pushing them into the road. This is from my understanding why low tyre pressure and higher sidewalls work. Weight transfer pushes the back of the car down, and if there's more 'give' in the rear you get more force pushing the tyre against the road. Should be a sticky post from GTSBoy for sure lol

As someone who has pretty terrible rear grip, can you expand on the last part of that post? Surely a 235 won't hold on as well as a 335 on the back with the same tyre? Or is this related to total handling as opposed to just rear grip under power? My brain can never quite grasp this concept after googling it.

So, general consensus is id2000's are 'safe' for e85 now also?

Nah... Went there before they expanded (couple years back) when it was Misty and 2 other workers in the entire place. Every meal got worse every subsequent visit. Thousands of better places to utilize an appetite in Melbourne.. (Or just go round the corner to soda rock for a burger)

Sweet jesus f**k Misty's went down the shitter years ago. Go anywhere else lol