Kinkstaah

I had asked this question and got a "if it gets tuned by A, B, or C I'll honor it" - So it's worth asking. I asked only due to time constraints in my example. Alternatively, get it tuned by the builder then see another tuner. It does make a fair amount of sense to let the guy who built it tune it, especially if they are going to warranty the end result. I'd rather take a warranty over ~10kw

As someone who has unwillingly done this (long story) - Sell it and buy a turbo model. You will have plenty of years to save to revert whatever agreement you had with your dad to get the N/A Car

My Car was originally a N/A Series 2 R34 (auto) I was curious if anyone knew what temperature the warning lights for AT Oil Temp, and Engine Oil Temp actually illuminate at? I can't seem to find this information anywhere, even in the workshop manual. The workshop manual does mention the light comes on but only when the sensor detects variables which are everything except actual temperature. Just curious before I bought gauges (which I will anyway) to see whether these can be relied on as actual warning lights, in a "It is time to immediately back off" kind of warning. My google fu is clearly feeble.

PSI is dependent on how much the turbo really is flowing. 14PSI on your turbo is different to 14PSI on any other turbo in the world. It needs to go to a dyno, ASAP. It isn't possible to know if "14psi" is too much or too little for the setup you have listed.

I think most people would be surprised if word got out that 850cc is all you need for 465rwkw on E85 though. Every calculator that I found seems to insinuate it is above the ability for an 850cc injector. I only know this as I was looking into finding out what 1000cc injectors would safely seem to support as I ran out of flow. As I said before, its entirely possible my result which is from a turbo smaller than Stao's 465kw one, and older, and generally very shit, so much so I never posted a result in this thread..... is an indicator of other problems/restrictions (of which there are many if forum searches and general SAU hivemind would have you believe) I would have thought as a complete layman that injector duty cycle is a good rule of thumb for power use at the engine, before restrictions everywhere else come into play. Especially restrictions to make that car look VIC Compatible, Mr Officer.

My car is not the poster child of efficiency by any means (too long to get into.. I may make a thread one day about it) but I didnt think it would result into such a huge difference for a very similar sized injector, when both were at 100% duty cycle (in my case). At least not by such a massive amount unless I actually have 100rwkw of restriction.. which may actually be the real reason. I am going back for more boost with 1000cc's (when my appointment with Trent comes along..) and A FPR and new fuel pump to see if it can be maxxed out or at least to run proper e85 instead of religiously checking the ethanol % every fill up to avoid leaning out. Given the fact my Turbo cold side was designed in 2010, and it's sitting on a Low comp RB28 Neo that's auto, god only knows what it really 'should' be making, but I found the injectors being maxxed at 340 (at e60) when others max at 465 and e85 to be an indicator of something wrong with my setup

Getting 465kw out of 850cc's makes me really wonder wtf is wrong with my setup getting 345kw maxxing out 800cc's at E60, on the same dyno with the same tuner ;p

Also given the photo is a P plate compatible car, I'm going with Series 1 R34 GT Coupe. As to what's different between that and a R34 GTR - Everything.. and between a R34 GT and a R34 GT Turbo.. almost everything. At least so much so that for any meaningful upgrade (performance wise) for the Non Turbo car the answer will be "Sell and buy the car you want to turn the non-turbo into" This sounds vague and haphazard, but it will turn out to be very true.

As in.. soldering. Having had the fun of putting an 040, 044, GTR, DW301, and now the Walbro 460LPH pump, I can say they're all of equal difficulty to fit, and the DW300 and Walbro 460LPH pump are both equally quiet (silent compared the rest)

I have one of these kits in my R34 (not rb26, it's a gtt) Note their kit which they market as being 25 or 26 compatible didn't come with pistons that suit the Neo head. I realise this thread is referring to the 26 but worth mentioning for anyone who uses the search feature in the future. I'm sure wherever you get it from can supply pistons to suit but I would definitely ask/confirm/double check/triple confirm before you order to be 700% sure to avoid drama.

To play devil's advocate, I wonder why there isn't a law based on the severity of the crime. Surely if you are alone, in a deserted area, endangering only yourself, in the dry, in a car where this speed is 'safe', doing 180kmh is less of a serious offence than doing it in the CBD with a full load of toddlers directly at the Flinders Street Station road crossing. It really shouldn't be as severe a crime. But it is, and you'll be on the bus.

That is true, but this car is a non turbo so it won't have a BOV

Lol funny I find this again.. My car is now at DTM.. As the MV kit I had in it killed the trans in about 10,000kms.. This wasn't really due to the MV kit as opposed to having a valve body for a turbo ecu car in mind.. The stock n/a shift computer doesn't pit nearly enough line pressure to stay alive. Keep in mind if you have a GT and put a turbo engine in front of it. Moving on - does anyone know where to find the wiring diagrams for the r34 non turbo auto transmission standalone ecu? Dan666 where are thou?

All I was saying is that it'd pay to look into it, and if there is one thing people can be critical of Stao for doing its not quite clarifying what is exactly going on with his turbo range, and it can be easy to be confused if you skip from page 200 to page 400 (lol) and suddenly all the dyno results look different. As mentioned before, these general catagories of turbo should be made somewhat clearer/easier to find for people to avoid confusion. Also: Boobs.

I have read everything from the thread (and have actually bought two hypergear turbos myself) However the original selling point of most things hypergear was really the highflow aspect, and later on the amazing performance whilst still retaining a stock look. I realise the more recent ones aren't, and aren't marketted as such. I just said its worth comparing them with other things on the market as where initially the HG turbos were a one of a kind thing, they are evolving into an area where they can be directly compared with more conventional competitors and if you're looking to buy something that is a Hightmount, Externally Gated non-stock looking turbo it would be fair to compare HG's latest and Greatest directly with the HTA 3076 for example, which doesn't need VNT, or FNT, or what have you to achieve a crazily nice result - The thread is interesting though and of course the tech that Stao discovers will filter down into everything else he makes if/when it's applicable.

Its worth saying though there's starting to be a little bit of disconnect between Stao's "look completely stock hi flow" and these VNT ones which seem to require external gates, high mounts etc to really perform well - It'd be worth directly comparing these more recent results to the HTA Garretts and Precision items when it comes to stealth (i.e not) if you're Victorian. Looking at the HTA 3076 result thread looks to be pretty similar to Stao's latest offerings, but having said that as the thread gets going it makes you sad if you bought a turbo from the page 200 era

My ECU was fixed by the tuner who was like "uh oops" but there were plenty other issues at the time. ECU has since been changed and this was quite some time ago. I do recall the problem quite annoying at the time! In my case it was a piggyback ECU sitting ontop of a normal ECU. You didnt mention what ECU you changed but I'd imagine no stock ecu would ever have a problem like this..

I had this once, after doing pretty much everything in this thread, and it turns out that it was caused by the ECU not giving any timing when starting the car.. even though once started it would run fine...

I've read (but have no idea whether it is true) that 7/11 use Mobil fuel, so 7/11 98 is actually Mobil 98 which wasn't too bad to fill up on in the past, again from searching here.

I've read this a few times but every time I've read this noone has really linked or suggested anything that's obviously superior, and why.. As a newbie with little-to-no info re: suspension and relying on the SAU Search tool -> What would you suggest? I have a 34, but its a GT chassis (with a non GT engine..), which I have read uses R33 style suspension. Yet BC BR's have different part numbers for R33 GTST and R34 GT suspension. I presume there are differences there so R33 is not exactly the same as a R34 GT.. so searching for R33 GTST gear may not even be compatible after all. Theres a lot to be said for "it really is 100% compatible, cheap, and does the job", what else is out there thats the next tier up?

Not in Melbourne, But DTM Autos in Geelong seem to know their way around it, and can even fit a seperate transmission ECU if need be. Certainly know the box well enough in my experience (experience = calling around about 50 places and finding 1 who isnt WHOA R34 NO THANKS)

^--- this is vic - everyone else is in Sydney ;p

I did get it from Just Jap due to impatience lol. I didn't actually FIND anything that was a stock dump replacement anywhere else, but my google fu is weak and I just wanted something I would know would fit. I'd much rather spend the extra $ for peace of mind, I didnt get a one piece front/dump simply because the guy didnt have a standard nissan turbo flange. He didnt tell me this mind you Wasnt really the optimal way to go about getting a turbo back exhaust!

I was in this situation (had a 'full' exhaust made which didnt have a dump in it...??) and ended up giving up and getting the HPI pipe. Its nice and shiny, and for the most part it was less stressful. I'm just a lay person but when I held the stock one side by side with the HPI one it was pretty clear one would flow better than the other

At least I didn't think it was related to the engine letting go. In my case I was talking about a 20k+++ forged stroker build which had no rhyme or reason to let go at the boost levels it was producing. I could set the boost controller in the ECU to free boost and set it for 250 PSI and just pin the WG closed and it'd never make more than about 20 psi, and could never really find out why... maybe it'll magically not occur after the rebuild but layman as I am I was kind of out of ideas as to how this could occur. Mine would be "OK" on wastegate pressure and hold 18 or so PSI, but itd only make 21 or so with the EBC, even when I set it to some ultra retarded high value.