Kinkstaah

I hate to be the bearer of bad news here (and believe me, its bad) My car has been off the road for 2yrs+ due to this and a host of other issues relating to it. The way I see it, the easy way out is the N/A ECU with a piggyback ECU on the N/A ecu to get the tune right. (You cannot run NISTune on a N/A R34 ECU) May want to steer away from the E-Manage Ultimate if you are choosing this ECU. Mine ended up with a pinging issue which destroyed the engine on the dyno, before I ever got it back.. A Haltech Piggyback ECU did not have this problem. Whether its acutally the ECU or wiring or what have you, I do not know. Just a word of caution... Other Options: Fully Manualized Auto Shift kit to get rid of the Transmission ECU Manual Conversion Could then use a standard Turbo ECU, or NISTune or one of the other many many options available. I read here that its possible to get the Transmission ECU to behave seperately and use a Manual standalone ECU for the engine, but after thousands of hours it was deemed to not work. Called many people who didn't want to touch it, and was prepared to fly the only person on SAU to have ever apparently done it down from Brisbane to have a look at it, but that never seemed to eventuate. If you ever, ever, ever planned to do a manual conversion, or totally beef up the transmission, now is the time. Alternatively, should the guys in WA get this sorted through some sorcery, I am willing to ship my car to them (from VIC) to do it too, lol.

I bought my car in May 2009.. It's not ever been what anyone would consider drivable. It's spent all of this time at a workshop. Everyone in my life makes fun of me over this.

What he said is a bit.. 'insensitive' but you have to admit given the (incomplete?) facts it is a seemingly pretty valid concern. It is, after all, a car. There's quite a few things that need to come first in life instead of a car. If all those things are actually appropriately managed then by all means mod away

Look on carsales for a skyline with mods at ~8K price higher than what you got your current car for. Add up the costs of getting all of those mods onto your new car from scratch. If you are going to upgrade it at all, this is honestly the best decision to make

Apparently mine is too old to be retrofitted to new spec. I suppose could re-use the housing itself but that's it. On the flip side, when my car is ACTUALLY running, I am sure there will be the next generation hiflows out

I wish I could upgrade my turbo to these crazy new options

It does feel like DNF was released in 2008 though. If you never played the first one you won't get it (I did, lots) DNF now in essence mocks the ultra serious FPS games going around now fighting terrorists in deserts or what have you, MW, BF, etc, COD, whatever. The people who actually enjoy those shooters will most likely dislike duke as it's essentially taking the piss out of them now too

No. Infact, the engine blew up and it's getting a rebuild! /me shoots self in face Ok, a R34 Sedan is a great family car for purposes of fitting people in it, and/or having rear doors. Depending on who you are, it may or may not qualify for a family car you don't give two shits about and can drive through the doors of a shopping centre and not care, etc

Not entirely, they have a good reputation (well according to SAU), and have offered a pretty decent warranty, though I'd like it in writing... this only happened last week so no course of action is 100% confirmed as of yet. I believe the engine was tested, but I'm leaning towards "comp looks OK, should be fine" type of OK given on it. The car has been in the shop a long time, so technically this engine went into the car about a year ago.. so I am not sure if the shop can follow up with the provider, I'm not sure how you can guarantee an unopened stock engine - but I suppose that isn't my concern. Nice to know there is some leg to stand on, though. I didn't mean to hijack the thread

+1, I see no reason why a R34 Sedan would be insufficient if you have less than 4 kids..

In my case it was a Greddy E-Manage Ultimate, which caused strange ignition issues, basically it was advancing timing by about +50 degrees at 6000 rpm onward for reasons unknown. Changed to a different Emanage Ultimate, which had the same ignition issue. Changed to a Haltech unit, which does not have this problem, but by then damage had been done. It could have been a setup/wiring problem moreso than the ECU itself, but that was also still handled by the shop. FWIW, a rebuild is on the cards at a (massively) discounted cost of labor, so they havent exactly been negligent or hard to deal with or difficult in my particular scenario, or refusing to accept any blame etc.

Hi Y'all Sorry for the Hijack, but what about this scenario: 1) Workshop does Engine swap (old stock engine, proven healthy, provided by workshop - They got from elsewhere and tested it) 2) All loom, all electrical work done by workshop 3) ECU selected, provided, installed, and tuned by workshop 4) Resulting package has big det problems (still at workshop) 5) Workshop changes ECU, det problem gone, but engine needs rebuild as a result (loss of compression bigtime in 1 cylinder) Anyone at fault in this scenario?

Toyota/Subaru, please bring out Turbo FT86's, and possibly a Turbo one with AWD, thanks.

Cheap crap $5 sunglasses > Visor Being 0.010 seconds of getting the Gold Kart qualifying time = compulsive rage. They are open till 11pm, so I tend to go late when I go simply so you wont be waiting in line forrrrreveerrrrrrrrrrr. I'd be a lot happier if they made the two tracks into one, longer track. 36 second laps isnt really a 'long' track.

Same, had a bit of an annoying traffic experience, then a dude came round a roundabout in a Stagea (and had right of way, so I was waiting for him) Gave me a peace sign as he drove by. +1 to whoever that was

It's a pretty golden rule of cars, any car, that you dont want fuel ANYWHERE other than where you specifically want fuel.. if you dont feel comfortable changing it, get a shop to do it... you just don't want fuel exploding in any incorrect area, nor do you want fumes messing with your head while driving, its a core safety thing that is well worth the uh, 40 minutes it'd take to get it sorted

Or you could, of course, simply drive a supra on your P's, to get that supra like performance, at supra like costs, on supra-legal P plates.

I would be very happy if my car was only 1 week late, hell I'd be happy if my car was only 1 year late. I dare say most people suck it up and pay the extra costs, though most people also shouldn't do that.

I also looked at GT-A's on Carsales yesterday, and from what I've read, seems to be a pretty decent package for a sleeper daily, no bonnet vents, no wing (optional), Triptronic, but everything else is an Evo 7. Pretty street/utility friendly being a sedan, too. For about the same price of a 1995 GT-R you can get a 2003-3 GT-A.. Brand loyalty aside, the questions and comparisons do warrant looking into..

If you buy a R34 GT-T or V35 you may regret it down the road. If you buy a R32 or R33 GT-R you will never ultimately wish for a GT-T or V35.

So, to sum up the entire thread in a TLDR version: 1) If you never, ever, ever lose grip, or have to compromise your handling setup to obtain grip, RWD is great, and better due to it being lighter. 2) in the real world, with real power, in real cars 1) Never Occurs (or at least doesn't for 99.9%) of the time. Does that about sum it up?

This, inside a stock looking housing, is exactly what people want, or at least I want. That, and the SS-2 Prototype which was a few pages back now which made 320rwkw with full boost at about ~3700, and you have pretty much got what 100% of all people want who arent doing massive internals work to their engine.

Speed limits in italy etc are 130kmh in general.. my gf was born and lived in rome .. well since forever (she only really just moved here) and the one thing she is paranoid is of speed limits here. Apparently italians generally don't give much of a shit while speeding, the whole "I'm 10kmh over the 130 limit and someone is telling me to GTFO out of the way" is pretty common. Even if it's the police, lol. That said, always best to bust out the ol Camry on long weekends

I have a feeling the rest of the car is going to have serious issues running without it. My own issues aside, it would be nice to have this information in general/someone searching having (attempted) to look around, there is a dire shortage of auto electricians for imports in general.

Thanks for the tips guys, will follow them up. Essentially what has happened is an Engine swap with a piggyback ECU. Airbag light is on, constantly The AC doesnt work (at all - Electrically the interface works, but no air comes out of half of the vents, and the heater doesnt work, ideal for those cold mornings when I like to see out of my windscreen) Check engine light is constantly on (error 21) though its had every ignition thing changed, brand new splitfires, etc, CAS changed, etc. As soon as you hit 6000 RPM the ECU ignores whatever timing settings are put into the car, and advances by 50 degrees, even though the ECU software is telling it to add 10 (or so).. setting it to -20 in this range still results in +30 or so.. (not sure if an auto elec can fix this/is the right guy for this) Alarm is mysteriously not connected, immobilizer etc just doesn't work, remote start doesnt work Some of the time the car won't start. It just sits there firing for a good 100 or so tries. This used to happen about 30% of the time, since I replaced a lot of vaccum lines this has now lessened, but does randomly still occur (i'd say about 10% of the time). A lot of the time, it really, really, really is reluctant to start. I realise not all of these may be auto electric issues (others omitted..) but I figure that there is definitiely wiring issues going on that need to be sorted out.