GTRgeoff

Is that your digicam or Ash's??? Might be interested but gotta see how stuffed my head is in the GTSt.

I understand R34 N1's have Inconel exhaust wheels, not steel. Lighter and not as fragile as the standard ceramic. The stuff is used in jet turbines.

You unbolt the top plate (use spring compressors), lift the spring platform and the circlip is then relocated in the grooves on the lower shock body, which are clearly visible. Height is then always pretty much spot on compared to guesstimate and adjustment with screw thread adjustment. Once the height is where you want it you leave it anyway so no real inconvenience involved.

Kinetics? Change of momentum?? What the hell are you on about? They don't apply directly in this particular application. All the best of luck to you mate but you seriously don't establish any confidence in me if you have the terminology wrong up front which suggests no formal training. This is a simple mechanical application of torque transfer to linear motion. I'd be thinking you're using the screw thread jacking mechanism on aftermarket suspension base cups or spring platforms using a worm drive. The issues are motors that are cheap enough and sealed to the grit around the wheelstations. They have to be light as well as they are unsprung weight so that means rare earth motors which are massively expensive. The power drain on one you say is 8 Amps so 16 Amps per end or 32 Amps for the whole car. That will kill a battery pretty quick unless expensive energy storage is used to protect batteries from direct load. Extra weight, extra complexity, extra servicing for some BS so you can drive around on a lowered car at a price that you can buy decent real suspension. Try the ricer forums as Merlin says. Skylines handle best when they are still at a reasonable height, and chew tyres when lowered without other setting optimised so it really has no useful application to us. So far you have the attention of 3 engineers who have been around racetracks for a while, and a guy who is heavily into the drift thing, and it would appear you have failed to impress us. I would suggest your market analysis shows a non economic return for the application.

No worries mate, and thanks.

DAMN YOU for getting your self sorted before I could..... Ahhh Sun...lifestyle (((((Brrrr Melbourne cold )))))

Nice one. I almost grabbed an MX-5 once but went with a Laser Lynx instead. Same engine but front wheel drive and a massive hatch area so really useful, plus it's heaps of fun to drive once I sorted the suspension out a bit and then setup oxygen injection for a neat 7.0s 0-100 performance. I always thought the MX-5 could do with a little extra punch but it's easy to overpower the chassis and then they just get difficult to drive. With a little suspension work they are lethally quick on a racetrack due to weight and balance. They do of course suffer from the low power so will not win the drag or on a long straight, but that low power means you can floor it in most situations and not light the rears. Makes for great confidence on the track and often that is as important as power. Anyway you reckon you are an experienced fast car driver, but don't have a clue what else is out there. That is just ignorant and dumb. I also don't consider your previous cars fast, not even a little bit. All that said though, some very basic improvements to a GTS25t will entirely destroy the MX-5 (and an S2000 which I consider a more worthy challenge) on circuit, especially if you can actually steer, but that's the rub isn't it? As asked before, can you actually drive? And why the hell are you racing on the streets? Tool. And for the MX-5 guys coming on to try to beat things up, welcome but remember... Teh GTR can Nevah Lose!!!!

Too late, you're already busted. the law surfs this forum. Anyway a stock GTR is heavier and has about the same power as you so clearly is at a disadvantage, but has greater potential overall. Mine does 0-100 in 4.02s and 40m on the stock computer, but it's a 33 GTR and not some busted arse old 32 Welcome anyway and come to a club meeting, oh and keep the racing on the circuit. BTW if a 32 GTR is your car of choice why buy a 34GTt? 32's are dead cheap now.

Climate control arrived today. Agonised over keeping the cool blue colour but replaced it with the front plate off my faulty one Cheers

Or get an RSM with cool features like 1-100 and stuff Cheers SK. Have a good weekend mate.

Can you bottle that smoke? Looks pretty thick

While I like the old R31 GTS-R with the forward cut boot with a nice kit, I don't rate the Pintara look... My first encounter with a GTS-R was in 1996, a guy filling up with PULP at a servo and I thought why the hell waste good juice in a busted arse 31. Had a chat and he told me what the car was about so I went and found one at a yard with a bit of work and had a spin. Not bad compared to the V6 TX5 I had then. But then I drove a 33 in 97 and I was sold, so now I have the whole collection of Turbo R33 Coupes. Auto GTS25t, Manual GTS25t (TT actually but sadly broken ) and GTR What to collect next.......?

Just get an RSM.

Pfft. best second car is another R33, or 2

Not tasking a shot Razor but even a modest increase in boost can result in massive post IC temps. Most never bother to take the measurements. Consider I measured post IC temps of in excess of 60 deg on a 27 deg day. This was with just 13psi. I then measured with the water spray on getting 37-42 deg. Improvement, but not enough and I discarded water spray due to space and inconvenience. I also cracked 2 pistons playing tag with a Porka. I pulled in close behind him (about 2m) and even with the water spray got detonation on full throttle because it lost sufficient airflow to cool the charge. Unfortunately at the time I didn't have the water injection setup. I then installed a Hybrid 800mm cooler and with 14psi (and 220rwkw which I don't even remotely consider crazy power but sufficient for street) I was getting post temps of 31 deg on a 30 deg day. At under 60kmh it would gently rise to 36 but as soon as speed increased it would drop quickly. This is without any water spray or injection. So a quick percentage calc of volume and mass of the 34 item would reveal an efficiency increase of SFA, whereas a small 600mm Hybrid or copy would gain size of over 400% compared to the 34 item and should be as efficient as the 800HP I run since it won't be pushing massive power. The 600 would fit fine but the 800 needs some trimming behind the standard bar and at $650 delivered complete with piping and brackets is a bargain http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HYBRID-INTERCOOLER-...1QQcmdZViewItem considering I paid 700 for mine 3 years ago with just the IC then had to fabricate piping. Besides, Chris is a good bloke and I don't want to read of him busting an engine when he gets the urge for some go when some crook tuner says "she'll be right mate. We'll keep it a safe tune!" with no idea of the temps created, so on a hot day it makes that innocuous little "tink tink"sound and a month later is blowing the dipstick out. My attitude now is fix it before it's a problem, having now busted the engine in the GTS25t track car 3 times (last was one of the twin turbs shattered). Fortunately I do my own work so it's parts and machining. RB25's are tough enough for decent power (Inasnt has 320rwkw on the stock bottom end) but very susceptible to detonation so just don't risk it.

FMIC kits are so cheap it's a crime not to get one. Even 34 IC is a joke so get rid of it before you chase power and bust an engine Chris.

April 25th for those wondering the date. ANZAC day. Those cheap Brembos look the goods. Wondering what temp they will catch fire at. I was offered complete Falcon Brembo front and rears today with discs. $2K May be available to flag. I'lll let you know James.

Thanks Caz. Passed on to my hobby club as they didn't have it on the website so I guess knew nothing of it. BTW for Northern Melbourne folks my club details are here http://home.iprimus.com.au/brianth/ and there is a mix of all sorts of modellers....except those train weirdos Here is the latest newsletter with some tips. Apr_06__Newsletter1.pdf

It shouldn't damage the plastic, but I just leave it on until the paint separates. Oven cleaner sounds good too. I use an old model for paint practice and detail airbrush ideas. Best cleanup is my 4L can of auto thinners.

Sorry but that's how it is. I don't want to be holding a heap of raw stock while I'm moving.

I'll provide some detail for you if you want it. I'm out of stock anyway except a couple I'm holding for Team Wangers and one for my GTR. I'm not planning on making more for a few months, at least until I'm in Qld.

I can honestly say I've never actually seen an RB sump gasket, only the sealant. Sounds like you need to borrow a floor crane and engine stand. The lower bell housing brackets will need to come off the block to get to all the bolts for the sump. A seal breaker may be needed but I just knock a scraper blade in and remove with pliers until I get a fair bit of seal cracked. Once off give it a good clean and degrease. To remove the sealant from the sump the best thing is a wire wheel on a bench grinder. A scraper is good for the block but be careful not to drop any sealant in. Also look closely at the oilo film in the sump for any gold flakes which can indicate bearings nearing life end. While it is apart whip off the flywheel and replace the rear main seal and the front seal in the oil pump if the harmonic balancer comes off easily. Cheap items but hard to do in the car. RB30 items are cheap and fit and easily acquired. Sealant I use is just the blue stuff from Autobarn.

I want the climate control unit. happy to make it $80 delivered. Need your assurance it will work though.

Hoses arrived today Steve. Very much appreciated and I owe you. Let me know where to fix the postage up (and enough for a slab)

When it comes to removing paint, the guys use brake fluid and a good wash after in soapy water. In fact, for good paint adhesion we always wash in soapy water before painting. For fixing clear plastic we use a clear glue sparingly and polish to a gloss with toothpaste.