Bass Junky

Bugger. The bug has bitten. I'm off home to pull my car apart. Damn you all.

Ah, just had a look and it's not as easy to remove as I thought. I will have to remove all the trim underneath the boot and pull the top off the wing and all that crap. It's a hour's job to get it off and on again....

I've PM'ed the owner of that car and asked to come and have a look at his wing. What I did notice though it that his particular mounts aren't in the standard location. They are much closer together. I might just go and pull my wing off now and have a look at some stuff. I'll be back.

Where in Melbourne are you??

The reason they don't pass ADRs is because they can frey and theb cut somebody working on the car. It's not on the actual hose, but at the fitting. You have to get specific hose ends and stuff. They CAN be road worhty, just with the right fittings.

"Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock at full throttle. " I love it.

That's the style I will be making. Big solid base, with a bolt through connection at the bottom. Very strong.

Check the pics out here. http://luko.org/gallery/skylinecruise1?page=3

Snow. My next project after the Turbo ducts is actually replacing the standard plastic uprights on the GT-T wing with Billet Machined Aluminium uprights which I will design myself. I'd assume that the same bolt holes would be used on the boot of the GT-T (as the factory would punch the holes) but the top might be different. I wouldn't thin kyou would have to worry about the strength. I will be making then about 8mm wide and very ridig. They will be bolting into the boot with a bracket on each side, not just on one side. I'll let you know when I get closer.

I used to be a member of this forum when I drove a Calais. Their cruises are resonably well mapped out BUT there are always burnouts and dragging on main roads. Also, they will go to an "Under Ground" location afterwards for more drags and burnouts. If you have a run about go along for the meet and have a look around, but stay away for cruising. Definently cop bait.

I'm about to put in a PowerFC boost controller and would like to get the 10psi actuator so the PowerFC controller doesn't have to work as hard to keep stable boost. I probably don't REALLY need it, but I would like it so that I can play with my car some more. And for $30 you can't really go wrong.

Come on, somebody has to know.....

Anodized, not ionized.

I've just spoken to a wrecker and asked for an R32 RB20 Watsegate Actuator. He said there were heaps of different ones for the R32 RB20...... Does anybody have a part number off their R32, RB20 actuator that I can give to him. Thanks BASS OUT

hi guys. I haven't recieved the prototype yet, but I'm still working on it. Should have the prototype very very soon. Like this week.

Werribe? That's a long way from West Heidelburg

Thanks Sewid

It's more to do with heat in the exhaust wheel. If you are running stock management you are less likely to bust the thing as you are when running a PowerFC. When you lean the mixtures you heat up the exhaust gases and therefore the exhaust wheel. The exhaust wheel delaminates at very high temperature and it spits itself into the turbine housing, hence destroying the impeller. BASS OUT

They weigh SFA I have them on my 34. You can lift them over your head quite easily with one hand.

Sewid. Where did you get those from?

Still got that turbo? I would like the actuator if you have it....

Still got the turbo? Want to separate the wategate actuator?

So what are the further results.....

what did you do with the actuator? Is it around?

you sure you don't want to sell the actuator seperatly.....