Syphon

This will sound really lame but you have been bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel?? heheh

Just to let you guys know I am moving back to Melbourne on the 18th, wont arrive till the 19th, but may well be setup to play on the 21st Let ya know how i go

Try this guy. If it is too far for him to travel, he might be able to put you onto someone else. The Thread Doctor 4 Floral Gardns Narre Warren South VIC 3805 ph: 0419 507 633

Heh I think you will find that he is talking about the WRX in terms of stereo.

Take it to court if you must with all the documentation you can gather. It can be an expensive endeavour, but if the police prosecution can't supply enough evidence to prove that you are infact guilty. Innocent until proven guilty apparently....

I think from memory of my last tune there, he was charging along the lines of $125 an hour.

I am keen sometime, im working monday and tuesday night but have heaps of time free after that Anthos, added you to xfire My xfire name for anyone who is interested is:- csjsyphon

Hey John, Have the gearknobs been sent out as of yet ?

The other difference also just for anyone searching in future, ports 3 and 4 have different spacings from 20/25 to 30. So not only do you need to change the flange, you need to modify the piping to suit the spacing on the flange.

Also try Tyre Solutions located in Labrador on the Gold Coast.

I read somewhere that BF Goodrich actually make Licorice, and occasionally they get a bad batch which prematurely goes off and produces a rubber like substance. So they whack it in a mould and call it a G-force Sport. Apparently the worst car to have them on is RB25 powered black R32 GTS-t's. Just a word of warning

Use something like a coke bottle cut in half, with some tape wrapped around the mouth piece of it so that it fits tight in the radiator filler neck. pull bleed screw out, run motor and keep filling bottle up, so that water sits higher than bleed point on inlet. Does that make sense ? Also make sure your heater is turned on, ie set climate control to hottest setting. Give the motor a good bleed. You can also squeeze the top radiator hose occasionally while bleeding to force any air which can tend to sit in there. Good luck

As suggested above, make sure the compressor is clicking on and engaging when you start the aircon. If it's not doing that, you have either an electrical problem, or the aircon needs to be regassed. With no pressure in the system, the aircon won't engage. Another problem which can occur is when the dash has been removed at some stage, there is a little plug which goes into the back of the dash airtemp sensor. It can be easily knocked out, and the climate control won't work, thus blowing hot air all the time....although if you set the aircon to coldest setting you should get cold air. R33, the sensor is in the dash to the left of the steering wheel, there is a little grill you can see in the dash. On the R32, its located in the centre console area I think to the left of the gear lever. So check to see if you get cold air when on coldest setting, if you don't and you can't hear the aircon compressor activating, you most likely need a regas. This will mean the system is leaking somewhere, hopefully not in the evaporator which is behind the dash As suggested above, it could also be the actuator which opens and closes the door allowing hot or cold air to flow. IMHO, that would be the last thing to check. When all else fails, aircon specialists should find the problem in no time.

Umm no offence but that has to be the most difficult way I have ever seen to flush a cooling system..... Note, be doing this on a completely cold engine! And also make sure you have the heater set to on, so that your flushing through the heater core aswell ( one of the first things to rust through ) Personally I would undo both top and bottom radiator hoses from the radiator end, then flush the radiator until you get clear water coming out. With the rad hoses still attached to the motor, alternate between flushing through the top hose, then through the bottom hose, same again until you get clear water. Then remove a heater hose, easiest spot would be at the firewall, say top heater hose will do, shove hose in and flush through hose and through pipe into heater core, you should get more shit flowing out the top and bottom radiator hoses. Bolt all the hoses back on once your satisfied its all clean water remaining, remove bleeder screw, fill radiator back up, preferably get something like a coke bottle, cut in half, wrap some tape around the mouth piece of it and use as a funnel in the radiator filler neck. You want it to sit higher than the motor or atleast higher than the bleed point. Start motor, fill with water, let run for awhile. imo, i prefer to let them run until the thermostat opens ( can take a long time, 30 mins ), otherwise let it atleast warm up, and keep an eye on bleeder point. Once you have minimal amount of air bursting out bleeder, put screw back in bleeder. whack cap back on radiator. Job pretty much done. * When using coke bottle or similiar as funnel, water will be forced into the overflow bottle. Best thing to do is remove hose from filler cap which runs to overflow bottle. Grab some spare hose that fits, chuck a bolt in one end, and push it onto the overflow nipple on the filler neck.

It should be ok if there is still a bit of fluid in the system. Try turning the steering lock to lock as your filling, this should pump the fluid through the system.

Bout time geeeeez, Ive been dying to receive a knob

Col, resize that first pic to around 1280 x 760 would ya then send it to me haha

The reason you have probably got no answers is because if you looked at the stickys at the top of this section, there is copious amounts of information avaliable. Anyways because I am drunk and feeling nice, click the links below http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=30665 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=11443 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85164

Beware I am a n00b when it comes to 32/33's, but as far as I can tell, yes the only difference is the lower mount's on the rear shocks ( please correct me if wrong ) That being said, whiteline do have a different part number between GTS-t and GTR. Seeing whiteline make a far superior product IMHO, probably higher spring rates to compensate for extra weight among other things like handling dynamics..... Go for some whitelines, kings are way too soft

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106949 Shoot him a PM and see if shipping can be arranged

YAY YAY Can't wait champ

Come on Ladies, pay the man

PMed you, I have paid cheers

Heh your getting a little confused. Don't confuse compressor wheels with turbine wheels. I am certainly no expert but I can confirm that atleast on the compressor side of things (intake), the 33 turbos are all steel wheels. The reason the 33 turbos can only run a limited amount of boost is the TURBINE wheel, which is ceramic and tends to let go at anything over 12psi. One busted turbo which usually fills your cat convertor with tiny bits of what used to be your turbine wheel lol. Now, the 34 turbo, I have not read up on the turbine side (ceramic or steel). The point Bluprint is making is that the 34 turbo has a nylon COMPRESSOR wheel. Tends to not like seeing more than 10psi. If it lets go, your poor motor drinks plastic which I am sure it won't be all that happy about, neither will your wallet when your getting the turbo rebuilt Anyways to get strictly back on topic, whats your budget, how much power are you chasing, are you cashed up enough to go something aftermarket and mod a few things such as oil lines etc, or you want a straight bolt on affair. Most people seem to do quite well and be happy with the 33 turbo on the 20. If your chasing over 200rwkw, either go aftermarket turbo, or highflow the 33 one. I think 170-200rwkw is the rough range for a standard 33 turbo. Anyone feel free to add more information or correct me where I may have gone wrong. I am still learning like alot of us

Put me down for one