diabolique

If it's stable at speeds up to about 120-130 and you aren't doing track work then why worry about wind noises above those speeds? Unless you frequently hit 160km/h+, which in that case I wouldn't be worried about the wind noises so much as the other noises (and lights) coming from behind U

Here you go mate: 2006 AY2-Garnet Fire B21-Medium Blue B30-Lakeshore Blue BW5-Twilight Blue K23-Liquid Platinum K32-Serengeti Sand KH3-Black Obsidian QX1-White Pearl WV2-Diamond Graphite 2005 KY0-Brilliant Silver B21-Athens Blue B30-Lakeshore Slate QX1-Ivory Pearl K32-Serengeti Sand AX6-Laser Red KH3-Black Obsidian WV2-Diamond Graphite 2004 KY0-Brilliant Silver B16-Caribbean Blue KX6-Desert Platinum QX1-Ivory Pearl AX6-Laser Red KH3-Black Obsidian WV2-Diamond Graphite BW5-Twilight Blue 2003 QX1-Ivory Pearl KY0-Brilliant Silver KX6-Desert Platinum B16-Caribbean Blue AX6-Laser Red KH3-Black Obsidian WV2-Diamond Graphite

Whoever took the 2nd, 4th and 5th picture must be a really cool guy

Kwinana Fwy (near Leach Hwy exit) on Fri 5 November - Silver V35 with 20's (I think) driving in front of me - number plate 'ST 88 WA' - Gave me a thumbs up when he exited

So true! Was in the States a in July this year and drove my cousins 335i around LA - when asked how he could afford it, well, it only costs $45,000! (compared to $105k+ out here). I guess Aus is still better than some Asian countries like India, Singapore and even M'sia.

The materials that modern battery cases are made of are less condusive to leakage (and better sealed) and from a "modern" battery's perspective, I doubt there will be any leakage or acceleration of discharge by leaving it on a concrete floor. The biggest problem is dirt build up whilst on the floor. When dirt builds up across the terminals, it can form an acidic layer which can carbonise the dirt into an electrical conductor of sorts thereby creating a short circuit of sorts across the terminals which subsequently drains the power a lot faster. From working at Jaycar and dealing with a lot of auto-electricians and mechanics, I've also heard (though I've never seen it proved) that thermal gradients can also redude the life of a battery - i.e. if the surface the battery is sitting on is a lot warmer than the ambient temperature around it.

I would think if you have an alarm that would be the biggest problem in disconnecting the battery. It is recommended if U go away for more than 4 weeks that U disconnect the battery, however, that doesn't stop it from draining as all batteries discharge over time. First, make sure it's filled up fully with distilled water and is fully charged and then store it in a cool place. Then, the best way to maintain the battery would be to buy a battery charger with a trickle charge facility. I used to work at Jaycar Electronics and they sold some really good value for $$$ car battery chargers. However, I'm sure any other product of similar specifications would do the job, not just Jaycar's (i.e. I'm not promoting Jaycar merely because I worked there). Just an example of one: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MB...mp;SUBCATID=295 That plugs directly into your mains outlet so it shouldn't be a problem. It won't "clear" your memory, just reset your clock and erase your radio presets so U should be fine

Sorry bro I've got an exam the next day so can't make it.

Email these guys and ask about QLD: http://www.nistune.com/contact.php Also, I'm not sure how much HP it "adds" but I know resetting the ECU changes the "feel" of the car (there's another thread on ECU resetting so have a look). I reset mine just before a track day and it felt a lot quicker, like someone had lightened the car and the throttle response was much sharper. Try it out, it's free and U can do it yourself ;-)

I've got a 5AT. When it was stock it ran 210rwhp (~156kW). I've had around 5 dyno runs on 2 different Dynos after I got my mods. Don't have the printouts but the max I got was 233.6rwhp (~174kW) and the min I got was 224.2 (~167kW) - both obviously on different dynos. The Dyno used for the stock reading was a different one to the ones used after the mods. My mods are: - Ztube - Stillen Airbox - Kinetix V+ Plenum spacer - HFC

You need to get your ECU flashed, or better still, get a NIStune board. Your AFR will be off since you've got all those mods so you need to chip it.

Damn - well I'm not thinking of spending any $$$ on the V this year so when the time comes next year might try to see if I can source that bood lid Post up pics of your car with the Varianzas when they come - a huge fan of those wheels!

That is absolutely orgasmic! Do U know what rear bumper that is Steve?

Looks good. Where did you get your headlights from? They aren't OEM - did U get them customised?

LOL should have googled a bit more: http://forums.nicoclub.com/2003-g35-w-serv...sh-t277728.html http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2218281-g35_200...ash_lights_come And if you want more: http://tinyurl.com/2fo82c6 That's what it 'could' be, but get a diagnostic tool on there and see what error codes it spits out. Here's a list: http://www.gtz-uae.com/showthread.php?14-3...es-very-helpful You could also try resetting the ECU: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...mp;hl=ECU+reset

+1 for RDA slotted rotors! They are awesome - was a bit tight on cash when I needed new pads so I opted for Ferrodo Thermoquiets (front) and Ferrodo DS3000 (rear) and was extremely surprised at how good they were. Would still like to put on Project Mu's but will have to wait till I need em changed I did a track day with the RDAs and found em to be pretty good. Don't think you need to go cross-drilled / bigger calipers - 4 pots are more than enough for the street. Good luck!

I had a Stillen Camber kit come with my car. It has adjustable camber arms and toe arms - pretty good value for $$$. On that note make sure your toe angles aren't off. The only problem with them is that the closest I can get to 0 camber on the rear is -1. The front arms are a bit more adjustable and will go all the way to +.25 U can 'em off eBay - the $US is pretty weak at the moment so it's best to order from there!

Cops do have a duty to protect and enforce the rules which govern this country - most of the time they do the right thing, however, where justice is blurred is at the parliament/court level. The rules which get legislated and the judgements which get handed down are a result of decisions made by members of parliament, judges and in general politics. As a result with the strict traffic laws we have imposed upon us, there are a few cops who abuse this and follow the law to the letter. I agree that it's their job to do so however a subjective judgement should be made on the circumstances surrounding whichever law one has breached (i.e. taking into account traffic on the road, time of day, what kind of road it's on etc) and only then should a penalty be imposed. I've had a cop, some 5 years ago (just after I got my P's) pull me over on a bright street in one of Perth's clubbing districts because I had forgotten to turn my low-beams on and had just my parker lights on (didn't realise at the time as the interior lights come on regardless if U have parkers or lowbeams) - I got handed a 3 demerit and $150 fine for "driving without lights" even though my rear lights were on, it was a bright street and it wasn't intentional. That's called plain stupidity - and I haven't mentioned that I was travelling at 40km/h and had just pulled out of a carpark. 2 years later, I got pulled over doing 80km/h in a 60 zone at 3am after coming back from a late-night uni study session. The cop let me go when I explained where I was coming from and that I had an exam the next day. That's called common sense and using judgement. Injustice is when my neighbour gets beaten to the pulp whilst walking with his GF in a park (totally unprovoked), the attackers identified (5 of them) and their only penalty is paying his medical bills... However, speed or turn without indicating and you're f_ _ _ ed. I too have a mate who used to be a narcotics sergeant in one of Perth's busiest police stations and he labels traffic cops as being "bored cops who look for action in the field by pulling people over". His words not mine...

I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas. Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference

Last night (23 October) - Mitchell Fwy between South Street and Leach Hwy heading to the city. Number plate "L14R" - Silver V coupe with aftermarket rear bumper

Mobil 1 is really good - used it a couple of times and produced some good results. Aaron, if you want a discussion on oils - check this out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...-s-t320188.html pretty much all types of oils for your V discussed on that thread.

No way of bringing it down to Perth to get it done bro? Pop it on a trailer and bring it down with your Pajero I'm sure your insurer has a few preferred smash repair dealers in Perth. If not, then kick in the other side too, make it look symmetrical and pretend you're going for "a new look" when people ask

Ah man I feel for you (and the V!). Hope it all goes well for ya - are you gonna chuck on your stock bumper for now (or have U sold it?)

Try searching 'carputer' - there are quite a few discussions which you may find useful. This is a really good one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...amp;hl=carputer And then there's the other 'general' discussions on 'em: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ad...amp;hl=carputer Good luck

whoa dude! when/how did that happen???