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Everything posted by The Max
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Theoretically, the principles are the same so if it works for a V35, then it's likely to work for a V36 as well. Again, purely speculation based on wiring diagrams only, since I haven't got a circuit schematic or at least a spare ECU (let alone time) to take apart and examine.
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How To Fit An Amp In A V36 Coupe
The Max replied to The Max's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Chris, that's a bummer. Sounds like I'll need to extend at least one cable then as the device needs to take residence on the driver's side. I'll do some exploring when I take the wheel well covers off to do revert my headlights back to their factory HIDs (and finally have the AFS working again!). I'll be sure not to work on replacing that engine loom grommet until I've got that all sussed out. I don't want to have to pull the replacement one out again if I can avoid it. Thanks for responding to my queries mate. It just makes my homework that little bit easier when someone else has done the same work and is happy to share the information. -
Gt Stripes: Rad Or Ridiculous?
The Max replied to Fodder's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I'm a scotch man myself. Hitting the mid-30s will do that to some guys. -
Does that mean you're going to guinea pig this before me?
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How To Fit An Amp In A V36 Coupe
The Max replied to The Max's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Looks like you read my mind. Once all else has been finalised in the back there, I'll be doing the same. Only difference being though, I'll have to have my fan closer to the back of the vehicle which will mean taking the plastic shroud to a fabricator in order to get a duct fitted so that it has the same curve on the outside to accommodate the wheel but will still have the fan pointing straight at the equipment. The Alpine is a nice solution to your problem and very well executed. Kudos. The only reason why it wasn't my solution is because I want more power. I chose to keep my sub in a removable box rather than integrate it into the boot space to allow for the bigger volume required behind the sub as well as the additional power all 'round. Otherwise, your solution would have been the ultimate. -
I'm not planning on tuning mine for a little while yet. I've got other priorities at the moment since I'm so short on time. Once all the electronics I'm working on are sorted out, that's when I'll be paying Jim a visit. I doubt he'll remember me after 9 years but I know I can trust him and his team with my vehicle regardless.
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How To Fit An Amp In A V36 Coupe
The Max replied to The Max's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Except you probably didn't break the firewall grommet behind the battery like I did. Good thing I've got Raj from Steve Jarvin Nissan to rely on for all my spare parts needs. -
How To Fit An Amp In A V36 Coupe
The Max replied to The Max's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I keep reminding myself that I'm doing this for the music I love. No doubt you've had your share of fun with these vehicles and for that, I'm glad it's you who does it as a profession and not me. I'll stick to my broadcast job. I just wish the firewall grommet was a little friendlier to access and work with. By the way, while I've got your attention, is there a second grommet of some reasonable description on the driver's side of these vehicles? Preferably behind a wheel well would be nice as it would be covered (and hidden) all 'round like the Maxima was. -
It takes me back to the days when I went to the MoTeC seminar back in 2003 and learned a great deal. Up until then, all I knew was how stuff generally worked to fix my Maxima but I didn't really understand the science behind what conditions called for the right lambda or how much ignition timing advance is too much, etc. Of course then there were the intricacies with setting up the idle air stepper motor, tips on determining the ideal PID values when calculating against unknowns since idle stepper motor specs weren't available, checking with them my idea of ground-speed based boost control and so on. The road dyno tuning I did to my vehicle as a result was pretty damn good but the one thing that was the killer remained to be the ignition because you can't really hear the first onset of slight pinging when you're driving (unless it's down a laneway with fences all the way from top to bottom, heheh). I learned a lot about ECU tuning on my M800 and it definitely proved that even an electrical engineer can tune a car. So you're right, it's not a mysterious art form but it does help to find someone with the right tools and a good solid foundation of knowledge. That's why I'm set on taking mine to Tunehouse. Aside from the fact that I met the owner at the same seminar all those years ago, I rate the Dynapack dyno that he uses, he knows his stuff and more importantly, he runs a professional business. Despite him offering a piggy-back ECU, I'm sure he'd take on the UpRev option if you supplied him with it. That's my plan. What he does from there on in is then entirely up to him. He might even like it enough to go that way too instead of piggybacks.
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Gt Stripes: Rad Or Ridiculous?
The Max replied to Fodder's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I agree on all counts of what was just said. Ultimately, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But this beholder still finds it repulsive. Each to their own. -
How To Fit An Amp In A V36 Coupe
The Max replied to The Max's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Finally a bit more time and a lot more space (thanks to a good friend who kindly allowed me to use his home garage). The tasks were mighty difficult and I really didn't even consider taking any photos (let alone breakfast and lunch). I'll try to update in later stages with photos. The only thing I managed to do today was to replace the rear speakers with the Boston Acoustics and the wiring involving the following: 2GA power cable (passenger side) This was a bastard but only for the feeding through the grommet. Many posts I've seen on other forums suggested simply poking a hole into the rubber cap of the grommet behind the battery and then sealing it up with silicone. The perfectionist in me thought otherwise. I eventually managed to get the grommet cap off and pulled off the self-amalgamating tape one fragment at a time. The 2GA cable was a hell of a tight fit but I managed to get it through with no damage to my front guard thanks to the soft and fluffy blanket I covered it with out of sheer paranoia. Once I managed to roll the rubber cap back onto the grommet, I realised something. I broke one of the clips and that meant it wasn't clipping in. DAMN!! I'm going to order another one in from my favourite dealership and see how I can replace this without pulling out the loom. I'm thinking cutting a fine slit down the side so that I can slide it around the cabling and then tie it back together with a thin sheet of aluminium and a couple screws (pointing upward, of course). This is definitely not one of my proudest moments like I envisaged it to be. At any rate, I haven't yet sealed the engine bay side of the loom with self-amalgamating tape as I'm thinking I might have three more cables that need to be passed through that grommet if I can't find another grommet in the firewall. Otherwise, passing the cable itself into the cabin was a piece of cake. The channelling on the passenger side of the vehicle was sufficiently generous to accept it as well as three other cables I'll mention later. 2. Jaycar 4-core speaker cable (passenger side) This one was to take the front output of the head unit and feed it to the JBL DSP. Very easy to pass but not yet wired up as I've only taken out the kick panels and glovebox today. 3. Remote wire (passenger side) I'm hoping the Clarion unit in these SPs actually does apply a remote out signal from pin 1 of their main connector. If not, I'll have to take the covers off the unit and see if I can trace a signal somewhere on the PCB that does act as a remote. The good thing about the JBL is that it can work with signals as low as 4V (from memory) so even a 5V logic signal would be sufficient. That saves me having to make a buffered switch to supply to the JBL. 4. JBL MS-8 display wire (passenger side) As the JBL is remote controlled, there's an LCD display to connect as well. Mounting location at this point is not yet decided but I'm thinking either in the console cup holder (since I have a no liquids rule in the car) or otherwise mount it just ahead of the auto shifter. I'm more inclined to go with the cup holder. I may need to take out the bottom half of the back seat if I decide to slip it down the middle straight to the console rather than from the side. 5. Klotz 8-core speaker cable (driver's side) The mutt's nuts. A bit too thick though to pass with the outer sheath on the driver's side past the halfway mark along the door sill. Passenger side has already been taken up by the 2GA and 4-core speaker cable there. Only option left was to strip the sheath off to allow it to be sheathed up to the middle point along the door sill and the rest in convoluted/split tubing. This is because inside the cable are 4 nylon ropes which keep the 8-core cable in an even circular arrangement. I would have preferred it to be a tighter loom but I can't find any 8-core that isn't for professional/PA use and given they drive 100VAC, that's why they're spaced out that way. Still, better this way than with 4 pairs of ordinary OFC cable or even 2 x 4-core cables because I have a proper colour code that I can use across all 4 speakers at the front (they're splits and the crossovers had to go in the boot due to their ridiculous size). 6. Rear parcel shelf speakers This is definitely not for the faint of heart. To be able to merely slide out the rear shelf, you need to: Remove the upper boot interior finishers Unplug the brake light Get inside the car and remove the front kick panels along with their side panels along the door sill Remove the bottom and top halves of the backseat (in that sequence) Remove the striker plastic cover for the backrest holding the seat in position when upright Unclip the lower side covers Now it gets difficult as you need to remove the upper side covers which involves: Unbolting the seatbelts up top Removing the side garnish which reveals the airbag curtains - this is the bastard part. There's a series of clips along the bottom to hold the garnish along with the side cover. There's also a clip closest to the B-pillar. However, there are two clips which are there to hold the panel in place so that when the curtains pop out, the panels stay where they are rather than smack you in the head. They don't just unclip. You need to somehow get a pair of pliers in there to twist them 90 degrees so they can then just slip out of their keyed hole. Pain in the bum. Then you can remove the rest of the upper side cover which then frees up the parcel tray cover to just slide off. I hated this process with a passion. You definitely need a good set of trim removal tools (I use Bojo - they don't scratch and they don't break anything). Once it was done, speakers were mounted on a set of Scoshe ABS plastic 6x9 adapters slightly shaped with a Dremel to accommodate the slightly larger basket of the Boston ProSeries 6.5 as well as the accompanying tweeter along the side. The tweeters were placed at the outermost points for better separation. The adapters were screwed back down with some roofing sponge to absorb vibrations (none audible in the cabin when I drove off tonight) and using the same bolts (8mm hex heads) as with the original 6x9's. You don't have a lot of clearance from the windscreen so be sure to have a nice low-profile 8mm hex socket and a small low-profile ratchet for the job. The key here was NO DRILLING OR CUTTING. I didn't want to butcher the panels like a mechanic friend of mine did back in my teenage years with the Maxima. Finding rattles after that was a mongrel of a job and proof of what happens when it's not done properly. So in short, if you're planning on changing the rear speakers in a V36 coupe, it's definitely not for the impatient! Set aside a few hours for it and be very patient or you will definitely break something in the process! -
Gt Stripes: Rad Or Ridiculous?
The Max replied to Fodder's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Disgusting. Seriously. -
Wasn't Tunehouse by any chance, was it? Did you offer them to supply the UpRev Osiris yourself and get them to tune it?
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My theory on this is that it should work considering the factory cruise control switches are wired into the ECU directly. That said, I'm not sure if there's a bit of code from the factory ECU software which needs to be present in order for the UpRev code to function. The one glimmer of hope that I have is that when I submitted my V36's ECU dump to them, (ECU code #: 1ND2A) I was told that it was identical to that of an ECU in the US. Considering cruise control is a standard issue item up there, my theory there is that it should actually work. So while the lack of a cruise control module will render it inoperable as a cruise control system, the switches should still allow the UpRev code to respond accordingly for its mapping. The question is, who wants to be the guinea pig of this theory? If nobody gets around to it before I do (which I dare say might be a long while as I've got other priorities), then I guess I'll be that guinea pig.
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Perfect. I was wondering about this myself as the acid rain from Japan made it excessively difficult to get those spots out since the first washing and now I've just ordered a bottle of Ceriglass from Wax It. Cheers gents.
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Has anyone had their steering angle sensor go all weird after not parking their V with the wheels straight/neutral? I had mine parked in the driveway to give Junior some TLC, until the drizzle screwed over my chances of finishing my bi-annual polish/wax routine. Anyway, upon starting the car, the display was showing the wheels were in a straight position yet the steering wheel was still in a half-turn to the left!! Thankfully I bought my own Consult III+ tool last year so I was able to re-adjust the steering angle but it's still bizarre that it happened. So has anyone else experienced this? I usually do park with the wheels in a straight position but let's face it, sometimes we just don't for whatever reason. Surely the system shouldn't freak out over that? I'm putting it down to a glitch but as an engineer, I still like to exhaust all options in looking for the answer to any electronic mystery.
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V36 Fuel Economy - Best 'range To Empty' Of 643Kms
The Max replied to Haxorz's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Odd. I recall when I was tuning my Maxima back in the day, I was able to advance the timing by another 4-5 degrees compared to all other fuels, including BP Ultimate. Mind you, I was told by a few guys back then that BP Ultimate was more consistent than Shell V-Power. I always steered clear of Caltex as they were pushing their Vortex fuel as being all about cleaning agents and not focusing on the octane when it was first released. I just don't put any faith in whatever they come up with since then. My fuel logs back then showed better fuel economy out of the V-Power and like I said, the engine was happy and knock-free with a further 4-5 degrees advance from the MoTeC. Maybe we New South Welshmen get a better batch of V-Power? I can't see how but if those are the results you're getting, I'm willing to experiment with my V36 and try running BP's Ultimate again for a couple of months to see what results it yields. I log all of my fuel fills and keep an eye on the mileage I get as a result - I use MyFuelLog Pro by some Italian dude on both iOS and Android platforms. It made my migration from Apple to Samsung so much easier when I transferred the XML file across. -
OzForex are a good alternative, when sending more than AUD$2000. If it's less than AUD$10,000 they charge a $15 transfer fee. Otherwise, $10,000+ attracts no transfer fee and their commission percentage is extremely competitive compared to the banks. More importantly, they make sure the recipient gets what you say you want to pay them. Banks can be a little difficult with that as they don't always factor in the receiving bank's charges when they take your money. It's how I paid for my V36 back in November 2011. Couldn't be happier. If I ever decide to buy the GTM Supercharger kit, I won't be paying by credit card!
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Gt Stripes: Rad Or Ridiculous?
The Max replied to Fodder's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I'm just going to come straight out and say it... GT stripes on a V would look f**king stupid. You have an elegant car - style, power, grace. It's something that separates the men from the little boys and their Hotwheels/Matchbox cars. Don't make it look cheap. -
Handling Characteristics Of The V Coupe?
The Max replied to rs88's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Oi! I drive a crappy Ford wagon too! That said, I've always stuck the label on the rear passenger quarter window though Max Jr got his rego label up high behind the tint. Stuff 'em. Now with the new rule, I'm even happier but I've still kept my Japanese rego label in the centre just under the rear view mirror. I just like Japanese things I guess. -
Handling Characteristics Of The V Coupe?
The Max replied to rs88's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Big N.O. to those. Death Rubber is a more appropriate name for them. Very disappointing. My first set of tyres on my V36 and quite frankly, they're just not grippy enough for real spirited driving. Unless my definition of "spirited" differs from the textbook definition of it, taking 55km/h rated bends at 120km/h with these tyres doesn't inspire a lot of confidence in me. Add to that a simple turn of a corner at around 30-40km/h resulting in VDC triggering only makes me hate these tyres more. I'm definitely going to try a set of Pirelli P-Zero next. It was what I asked my compliance guy in Brisbane to whack on for me but he recommended I try the KU31's first. I gave them a chance being a cheaper tyre but they just don't give me what I want. I'd never go Falken if I want grip. They've never had a good reputation, at least among my circle of drivers. Great for burnouts given their harder wearing compound but that's about it. I'll take these guys into consideration depending on their wet weather performance. -
All 278 are listed in my directory. Not sure what the limit is but I certainly didn't reach it with my phone book. The limit you're referring to is probably the speed dials, in which case we only have 40 slots available for that. So, choose your first 15 wisely and then choose your remaining 25 carefully.
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Bride Or Recaro Driver's Seat Into Cpv35
The Max replied to szymonsta's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I can but I won't. I don't have any problem with the existing seats. They are comfy and hug nicely so that satisfies your first point. Aside from that, I don't really care about selling the vehicle. I was really attached to my old Maxima and I'm of the view that my decision to go with the V36 was partly subconsciously trying to hang on to that Maxima. There was a lot of sentimentality in it and it's carried across to this guy now. -
Bride Or Recaro Driver's Seat Into Cpv35
The Max replied to szymonsta's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I love the Ergomed DS. I was considering installing them in the Maxima whenever the factory seats would wear out but that never happened. If I were to replace the ones in my V36, it would be for the same reason and with this particular model. -
I should add another little discovery I made today. Only your first 15 speed dials can be scrolled through and selected while driving. From speed dial 16 onwards, it's greyed out when you're in motion. I'm guessing that's more of a bug than a feature, considering my DVD player allows videos to be viewable while I'm driving! Therefore, save your most important/regular numbers to dial in the first 15 slots as the others will only be available when you're stopped at the lights.