The Max

I have a mechanic friend who has a trade account with Rocket so I'm probably not the best guy to ask. Also, make sure you actually look it up in the US catalogue so that you have all the correct dimensions too, namely so you can be sure you have the right part number to suit an S or a base model coupe (if yours is a coupe) since the S package has the larger Akebono brakes and hence, larger rotors too.

I would recommend any decent AGM (Absorption Glass Mat) battery as the last thing you need is a bad leaking battery given where the battery is located in these vehicles. It's not the friendliest arrangement. For that reason, I have an Optima yellow top 35 in mine. If you go for that one, make sure you get the cap/cover that it should be supplied with as that clips on the base of the battery to give it the extra height you'll need to ensure the clamp actually does hold the battery down tight.

Either way, check both the Australian and US catalogues from DBA if you're a fan of the brand like I am. If they're in the US catalogue, they can still be ordered in Australia using the very same part number because ultimately, they're made here anyway. I had this issue with my former '92 Maxima when I was seeking 4000 series slotted rotors. I was told by my brake supplier that I couldn't get them but DBA's sales team told me otherwise so I forced the issue, he called, quoted the part number and much to his surprise, he was able to get them in for me. Therefore, you will find them in the US catalogue under the usual Infiniti G35/37 vehicle listings.

I'm guessing the argument is that it'll get you the most usable range since we're 88 - 108MHz and Japan's range is 76 - 90MHz. So after the shift, an 18MHz expander gets you 94 - 108MHz. A 10MHz expander, on the other hand, will get you the lower end of the Australian FM band, so from 86 - 100MHz but that's probably not for everyone. Conversely, a 20MHz expander will get you 96 - 110MHz. The better expander will be the one which covers the range you want most. I don't listen to the radio since nobody plays any progressive rock or decent heavy metal so screw them all.

Nope. ADRs exist for safety reasons above all else. Not having an FM radio isn't a safety concern.

What's the actual voltage of the battery when you receive the warning? Reason why I ask is because unless you have a lot of accessories in the vehicle which draw some power even when the vehicle is off, a decent battery should be good for almost 2 weeks. I think the general consensus is about a week but I've had mine last for two weeks before it was impossible to start. For what it's worth, I've also got an aftermarket alarm as well as a couple of amps of which neither should be drawing add much as yours may be. With that setup, I got my 2 weeks.

Deal. I'll try to make some time before then to plug in and extract some data.

Seriously Chris, I owe you a lot for going to this extent to help me out mate. Regardless of the outcome, name your price.

I'll be glad to be rid of the 19" KU31s I have on mine. They break traction far too readily on my V.

Why Kumho at all? They're a horrible tyre, in my experience.

Thank you most kindly. Let me know if they need any further information from me or even bits like the NATS module or BCM from my vehicle for analysis. I've also got my CAN bus logger if they need me to extract any data that could help them out.

Besides, being in Japanese, it adds character to the vehicle, despite there being no useful GPS.

I agree with both the guys here. At least you've got the luxury of replacing your head unit with something actually worth a damn. This is one aspect of modern motor vehicles that shits me, I must say. Mine was quite the challenge with integrating into the OEM setup and it still has its pitfalls from an operational point of view but you're definitely in a better position. Keep it all as simple as you can. Take advantage of your head unit's existing outputs, particularly if it has a subwoofer output, route your signal and power cabling to the boot (neatly!) and you're away. The next obstacle is your boot height and hence, your choice of sub diameter. If it's anything like my V36, then you won't be able to fit a 12" sub if it's standing perpendicular. Many have gone the 10" approach though I'm having a hard time letting go of my old faithful Soundstream Exact 12" which has served me well for the past 14 years. Which is why I'm in the process of building a wedge box but I won't crap on about the details in it here. You can keep an eye on my thread about fitting an amp in a V36.

Some things actually are simple and straightforward. Car can be in any state. You don't even need to be at the car for it. Just take out the key from the fob, pop the two halves open and change the battery (and yes, it's a CR2032). Piece of cake. I actually did it to mine a couple weeks ago after realising that the vehicle was only sensing my keyfob when I physically plugged it into the keyport because even the locks wouldn't operate with it.

Exactly my point. Why does a camera-based app need access to phone call status? At any rate, I'll steer clear of it myself.

You're a gentleman and a scholar. You should have hopefully received a PM from me.

Just to add some detail to that last message, as it was the result of speaking to DEI's tech support in Canada, here's what the current (and seemingly final) situation is with the DEI install I performed on my V36: 1) Vehicle remote starts fine, Viper reports "Disarm" on the remote but does not alter the state of the door locks. In other words, if the doors are already locked, they remain so and likewise if they're already unlocked. 2) Viper then reports "Armed" on the remote but again, no change to the door locks. 3) Upon entering the vehicle as per the DB-ALL's instructions for the Get in and Go functionality, the moment I touch the foot brake, the remote start is deactivated and the vehicle stops running. I then have to manually start the vehicle. This is something I have to live with, it seems. After discussing the problem with DEI's technical phone support staff last night, they tried their best to analyse what was going on as their belief was that it should just work. We both agreed, on my suggestion, that this must be an issue of different programming between the USDM and JDM spec of these vehicles, highlighted by the fact the lock/unlock pins on the USDM vehicles' BCM don't seem to exist/function on the JDM BCM, as one example. 4) I found that the remote start was intermittent after having successfully used it for over a fortnight now. What I came to discover was that in my laziness and not setting up any Engine Checking Mode (left it off with cranking time set to the maximum 4.0 seconds), the brake switch was only actuating for about 2 seconds sometimes and therefore not in time for the DB-ALL to do its thing, leaving my vehicle with the ignition on but not started and all the while, the Viper thinking everything was running just fine. I pulled my finger (and Bitwriter) out, set up Engine Checking Mode to Tachometer, started the vehicle manually and programmed the tach speed while the vehicle was idling. We'll see if that's resolved the issue as I'm confident it should now hang onto the brake switch signal until it's at least cranking. Serves me right for being lazy! So with all that said, I basically just have to live with a vehicle that needs to be restarted every time I hop in. In the grand scheme of things, though it means I'm doubling the use of my starter motor, at least the engine is warmed up and the cabin temp is where it should be by the time I hop into it. Have to take the good with the bad on this one, which is a shame but it's better than not having it at all. More importantly, at least the rest of the vehicle is unaffected and I have a clean bill of health according to my Consult III+ diagnostics unit.

I took a look at the app. The fact that it wants access to my phone and contacts seems unusual for something that's just meant to be using the camera, data (perhaps) and not much else. I'll stay away from it.

It has been a while since I last provided any sort of update for this project and I've just realised this after putting the boot back together again!! To be perfectly honest, I'm not inclined to go through the labour of removing trim pieces to take photos so my apologies for neglecting you some visual examples. I'll do my best to put it in words instead. To describe what I did with the power distribution, I mounted my positive and negative distribution blocks on opposite sides of a 3mm thick polyester plate. The 2GA positive cable was cable tied directly to the plate through a couple small holes to ensure no movement of the cable even if it should ever come loose from its termination in the block. The negative 2GA feed was terminated via a ring crimp terminal to the central grounding point in the picture above showing the routing of the speaker cable along the rear of the boot. It's convenient and an excellent grounding point without having to drill any further holes into the vehicle. Perfect. Both pairs of 8GA and the one pair of 4GA cables were then routed along the left channel of the boot, behind the HICAS unit, which is mounted slightly elevated on its brackets. This also afforded me the ability to pass under it the CAT5 cable for the future remote control panel Arc Audio are yet to release for their DSP. Yes, I changed DSPs because the JBL MS-8 was really disappointing. I had no end of trouble with the JBL MS-8 DSP as it simply didn't meet my needs and actually produced a very average sound for what it was meant to be capable of. I blame myself for not doing enough research on the product at the time. In its place, thanks to Marty from FHRX, is an Arc Audio PS8 DSP. A much smaller unit with way more flexibility, I was able to take advantage of the reduced height by lowering the height of the amplifier mounting plate, buying me even more air under the plastic flooring to keep the amp cool. After much testing at high volumes for a couple hours on the road, the plastic is barely warm, which means no need for forced ventilation. A less complex design is a better one. There were some teething problems with getting a good sound at first but it was soon discovered that I had a couple of faulty crossover switches in the Rockford Fosgate amp which were supposed to be bypassing the crossover circuits but somehow managed to create a massive amount of gain in the amp and therefore raised the noise floor considerably. Although it's installed in there for now and sounds fantastic, on the basis of the noise floor, I'll be inclined to replace that amp one day in the future with a better quality amp. They've never been an audiophile's amp but for a car which isn't a Rolls Royce, they've always served their purpose well in previous vehicles for me. If the cabin was dead silent, yes, I would be aiming much higher. At least I don't have alternator whine, thanks to the unit being class AD and loaded with capacitors in the power supply stage. I've now got the task of cutting out a small rectangular section of the boot carpet which will reveal the Harting connector as well as the USB port which I have mounted in the plastic floor shroud. The Harting connector is for the removable subwoofer box while the USB port is actually an extension of the USB port on the PS8 DSP. It's a Neutrik panel mount USB port which has a reversible A/B-type connector. So in this case, there's a short 30cm A-B USB lead which conencts to the A-side of the Neutrik connector and that leaves us with a B-side up top for plugging in a longer USB lead for the laptop in the cabin while tuning. It's pointless for firmware upgrades, should any be later required, as one needs to access the reset button on the DSP unit itself, which means having to remove half of the damn boot trim to get to it. Ah well, c'est la vie. Once I've done my work with the carpet knife, I'll take a few photos to show what the end result is ... a boring looking factory standard boot with a couple of connectors exposed on the left side. At least I've got my music back as well as my bluetooth!

Seems like nobody has really studied the JDM versions of these vehicles all that well then. Bummer. I'll await the guru's reply. Thanks mate.

Hey guys, I'm wondering if anyone here has a remote starter on their vehicle as I'm having a little difficulty in trying to get mine to behave. I recently installed an alarm along with the XpressKit DB-ALL. On paper, it seemed the goods, just like the Clifford Avantguard G4 I once had in my Maxima - remote start, ability to take over with the engine still running and errand/pit-stop mode to allow the vehicle to run, remain armed and hop back in again to drive away. The problem with the XpressKit solution is that the remote start doesn't allow me to then take over. According to the manual, I should be able to just enter the vehicle with the OEM remote, close the door, press the brake pedal and then it hands control over to the OEM system before disabling the remote start on the alarm. What it also says in the manual, though, is "Get In and Go connections required" but the damn manual doesn't say what those connections are and whether or not they're in addition to the connections showing in the wiring diagram earlier in the manual. I've connected everything as per that wiring diagram but I can't help thinking that DEI have intentionally left out that one bit of detail to annoy people like me who have taken the DIY path rather than through one of their authorised dealers. Several emails to Directed's tech support in Canada have gone unanswered beyond their response to my initial pre-sales enquiry when I was ready to purchase the unit. Has anyone tried this brand of remote start bypass module before and if so, what are your experiences with it? All other functions seem normal and compatible with the exception of the door lock actuation via the BCM. It seems there may be a difference in the JDM Siemens VDO BCM as grounding the supposed unterminated lock/unlock pins on the BCM have no effect. I ended up having to make a relay board consisting of 3 relays allowing me to safely and harmoniously interface the alarm together with the BCM.

Welcome Toecutter. So not even the Kanji characters themselves bear any resemblance? I'm hoping they've used similar Japanese wording even though the menu items order may not be the same. See if you can find some common characters which may help.

I'm growing a little tired of our Australian market not considering our tyre sizes to be within their minimum volume requirements. Given the specifications from Nissan, it'd be nice to have the correct spec tyres to suit. It's actually tempting to consider buying them from the US.

I can only begin to imagine what he would've done to the factory head unit to make it all work. There's a reasonable amount of real estate behind those dashes so it wouldn't surprise me if it ended up being the PCBs and hard drive being scattered around within that dash with the wires extended accordingly. The guy definitely gets my respect. Given the Viper logos I'm seeing in some of those photos for that shop, maybe I should ask them what they've done to get the remote start to work properly on their vehicles in so far as the keeping the car running when hopping into the remote started vehicle with the Nissan keyfob. My Viper with the XpressKit DBall just refuses to play ball and I have to start it again when I hop in. Then of course there's the door locks which can't be actuated from those alleged two pins on the BCM so I have to go wire-to-wire using a few relays on a PCB I've designed and had etched for me.

No. And next time, search the forums before asking what is a very frequently asked question.