The Max

They must've been talking out of their organic exhaust pipes. Did you tell them you weren't born yesterday? Wankers.

Things I never do: 1) Wash the car at a carwash. (Best to show the car some love and wash it by hand) 2) Lower it to an impractical height so that I scrape stuff wherever I drive. (I don't drive it on the circuit but if I did, I'd get coilovers so I can adjust for on and off the track) You decide what's best for you but as it stands, I don't think you're doing the right thing by your car.

I do get my share of people trying to get me going. Sometimes I'll entertain them but if I see P-plates, then I'm just a slow old man. Inexperienced drivers are not to be encouraged in an activity they know little about yet.

Hahahah. Well played, sir.

Yes, that is all I've got because logically, you don't compare race vehicles to street-legal vehicles. You can at least use a B&M shifter on a vehicle that can be kept street-legal after the modification. Don't get me wrong, I don't disagree with which sequential shift pattern is better. The idea of pulling the shifter towards you to shift up makes sense to me but given the old PRND21 sequence we've all grown up with, it makes sense to keep it that way on a street vehicle. That's why I didn't bring Hollinger into the argument, despite their transmissions being widely accepted in the racing community, particularly in V8S as their control transmission for a while.

I'm with Tony350. Shoot the cats. I despise cats. They deserve to die. I won't tell you what I did to my friend's cat when he decided to sit on my Maxima once. Had it not been for the Clifford alarm's perimeter sensor, I wouldn't have known. Luckily no scratches but the cat walked with a limp for a while.

I recommend my beater whom I've dealt with since the old man had the Maxima. Cullens Smash Repairs in Auburn - 9748 1820. Top job and as for price, no idea since I have comprehensive insurance. I strongly recommend you pull your finger out and get yourself comprehensive insurance too. You never know when you might hit that Ferrari one day or if some uninsured twat hits your prized possession.

I disagree with the auto shifting. Think about it guys. Before the manualised auto came into play, you had the sequence PRND21. So invariably, you had to push up to shift to a higher gear. Grab a B&M auto shifter and it is the same thing, with the sequence also ascending gears upwards. Maybe some of us are just too old school to understand you young whipper snappers.

You car has what is most likely an aftermarket alarm, which is a good thing since the OEM security is only an immobiliser and will not scream if it is violated.

It should but only if the GPS wasn't locked to operate only in Japan.

Exactly why I figure supercharged is the better option, despite the fact that the oil filter needs relocating and the power steering needs a little rerouting too.

I wouldn't say it's complex but it will be difficult. The other concern out of this is that pin 1 of the headunit may not necessarily function as a remote output like the Bose system does. In which case, I'm going to be hacking into the headunit to find an appropriately switched output. Even a 5V rail will do as the JBL MS-8 has a switch-on threshold of 4V. Given the degree of difficulty though and the amount of love it'll need, that's exactly why I wouldn't recommend finding someone to do it unless you know they have a track record for putting love into what they do. Chris Rogers is clearly one of them but if you're not in QLD, perhaps he can chime in and recommend someone in your state?

The rear speakers are the same in all models - 6" x 9". I've bought a couple ABS plastic adapters which will allow me to mount my Boston Acoustic 6.5" in their place. I preferred ABS plastic to masonite and MDF (it would have to be no more than 4mm thick to avoid contact with the factory grilles). Hopefully the grilles won't make contact with the axial tweeter mounts as the overall speaker height above the surface would be 12mm. This could be a problem which might involve me having to find the Boston Acoustic flush mounts for the tweeters as spare parts in order to lower the profile. Anyway, as for the wiring, what I'm doing is: 1) Cutting and intercepting the rear speaker wires to feed the audio input of a JBL MS-8 DSP, as they're the easiest to access and already in the boot area, compared to bringing back 4 wires from the headunit at the front. Less wire clutter in the cabin. 2) JBL MS-8 DSP line outputs will feed a Rockford Fosgate Power series T800-4AD (Class AD) amp (front and rear speakers) and a Sony XM-1002HX amp (removable subwoofer). Both the DSP and the Rockford Fosgate amp will be mounted stacked in the rear left corner of the boot where the Bose amp would normally be. There are a series of factory M6 bolts welded to the boot floor which will be for the mounting ears of the 1.6mm aluminium stacking mount I'm fabricating. The Sony amp will be mounted to the removable subwoofer box for a completely removable solution. 3) The Rockford Fosgate amp will feed the four Boston Acoustic crossovers which will be mounted in the rear right corner of the boot where there's sufficient real estate for them, again mounted on a 1.6mm aluminium stacking platform I'll be fabricating for that. 4) The outputs of the rear crossovers will be wired to the speakers using two 4-core Canford MCS4 speaker cables, primarily for neatness. 5) The outputs of the front crossovers will be wired to the speakers in a more complicated fashion in which a single 8-core Canford MCS8 cable will make its way to behind the headunit. From there, four of the wires will be used to intercept the existing factory wiring leading to the woofers. Because the tweeters are currently wired in parallel with the woofers (dumb design), an additional pair of wires (22GA) will be threaded through the door harness grommets to be connected to the tweeters. Granted, the existing factory wiring leading to the woofers is a bit on the thin side but it is not an issue with high voltage output amplifiers. It's high current amplifiers that are affected by thinner gauge wire. Though generally insignificant, any undesirable capacitance resulting from the factory wires can always be compensated for with the DSP anyway. The biggest pain in the arse for all of this will be removing the entire rear seats so as to remove the side finishers (floor up to rear quarter windows and rear windscreen) just to be able to remove the friggin' rear parcel tray finisher!!! I love how Nissan engineer and assemble their vehicles but this is one exception that shits me. So while I'm at it, I may as well then pass the 2GA power cabling and remote wire for the DSP (which then has its own remote output for the amps) and install the alarm plus some other secret gadgets because I don't want to take the car apart more than once in the same areas if I can avoid it. Clips don't like being inserted and removed too many times and they'll break as a result. In short dude, brace yourself for a lot of hard work, if you want to do it properly.

What were you doing wrong?

V36 (2008-) and Z34 (370Z) use the same VQ37VHR engine although I believe the V36 sedans didn't get this engine until the 2009 model. Otherwise, up until then the V36 sedans got the V35 engine.

Here's another V36 owner who is happy to give them a go. I have a tendency to thrash the car often (which is why I insist on servicing the car myself every 5000km) so I hope I can be considered one of the extreme testers, for a naturally aspirated vehicle.

You have to make sure you press and hold one of the numbers until the LED goes out. Then you know it has been stored. After that, no drama. Press it momentarily whilst the auto is in Park (or otherwise clutch is pushed in for the manual transmissions, I think) and it will recall the settings.

Why hack into the ECU wiring loom if you don't have to? The only time I see a piggyback option being feasible/necessary is when you're going for massive upgrades which then require the use of sensors with different electrical characteristics. If all you're changing is the injectors and going mild boost, then an ECU reflash is more than enough.

Spot on. It's easy to get bitten by the bug and it definitely bit me on the arse mighty hard. After the CAI and ignition system weren't enough, it was then the nitrous, then it was the turbo. From there on in, I swore to myself to go straight to the top if I wanted serious power but that's in a distant future for this animal, I reckon. We'll see. Hopefully I haven't made myself out to be a pretentious arsehole in voicing my opinion and let's face it, we all have one (of each).

I haven't yet done any tuning on it. I only got to drive it for a couple months before I had to fly off to the UK for 5 months work so there's a lot going on now that I'm back on home turf again. The tune will be the last thing I do. I no longer have access to a dyno like I used to so I'll be relying on the services of Tunehouse and hopefully the owner remembers me given I had long hair back in 2002 when we did the MoTeC training seminar. If you know how to tune, it's a logical process but the butt dyno will only be good enough for getting a general tune. After which, a dyno is absolutely necessary for a fine tune and particularly with timing where you need to listen carefully for knocking so that you can dial the timing back a bit. Fuel's easy because you can read the lambda values from an EGO meter. It's spark that's the slightly trickier one. Someone here has already had theirs tuned by someone in the Central Coast if I remember correctly. It's in their signature with every message they leave so keep an eye out for it. It definitely gives you the most gains for an NA mod and it's about as far as I'd go because I don't see the value in forking out cash on hardware that could be better spent doing a proper forced induction modification instead. Many here will disagree with me but we all still get along despite this difference.

Of course it's the stock ECU. That's what the Uprev Osiris cable is made for. I didn't want to go through the process of wiring in another MoTeC like I did in my previous project. Modern cars in particular are so tightly integrated with all their other components that one does not tread lightly in the aftermarket ECU domain unless they want to lose all the creature comforts and some of the OEM performance benefits, such as the all-wheel steering and whatnot. This is where it's best to leave the stock ECU and remap it instead. That's the purpose of the Osiris.

Each to his own though. I know the OP was seeking basic engine mods but I simply put forward my view, questioning the value of going that path. That's all. Nobody really modifies a car expecting it to increase, let alone maintain, the value of it. We all know cars are money pits. Some of us like to keep them until they fall apart, others sell them off in exchange for the next thing they crave. Everyone has their own tastes and opinions. I gave my opinion with no intention to suggest that anyone was right or wrong with what they do with their cash. If he wants to go the way of plenum spacers and whatnot, all the power to him and he'll still have my respect for the effort and TLC he gives it. As for buying a GT-R, that would only happen for me once the vehicle costs much less than what they're currently worth. Until then, FI mods done well will yield great results for the money by comparison despite the lack of a thoroughbred race vehicle build which the R35 possesses. Nothing wrong with just being unique.

Considering I plan to use the cable for remapping, it's actually a pretty good deal. Of course, if you know of a tuner who has the cable already, get them to do it for you. Aside from that, they will then need to clear the DTC error that pops up in relation to the pop-up hood control unit. Uprev aren't sure why it happens and they are working on it but clearing the error with a Consult III scan tool will do the trick. No idea about Nistune. I haven't seen much about the Nistune documented anywhere so that's why I stayed away from it.

Goes back to my original argument about doing things right. It was shipped up to Hamburg, New Jersey where Level 10 worked their magic on it for $8000 back in 2001. As you know, those Jatco slushies were prone to failure with their really soft shifts. It was the second time the car fried the transmission with the first being covered by Nissan's warranty. As I planned to go turbo in the following two years or so, doing a proper performance rebuild on the transmission was the first thing on the list.

Exactly and that's where the money is better spent. As for endless troubles, that all depends on how far you want to push it and how good a job you do on it. For example, mild 12PSI on an 80,000km VG30E with stock internals produced zero reliability issues for 5 years and 40,000km. Granted, we're talking a cast iron block as opposed to an alloy block, which would need sleeving and either decompressing the head or the pistons (or perhaps both, depending on the engineering behind it) but nevertheless, there's no reason why there should be problems if the job is done thoughtfully and with the appropriate expense. Anyway, that's me and that's you so we'll just enjoy our vehicles the way we like. Nothing wrong with it either way.