The Max

Additionally, should the car ever be written off, you're given first opportunity to buy the wreck back from them.

Additionally, should the car ever be written off, you're given first opportunity to buy the wreck back from them.

What xfuzion said. Jump on the US DBA site and look up the Infiniti G listings. You can then get your local supplier to order the exact same DBA code since they're all made here anyway, according to an Australian DBA rep about 5 years ago.

If that is your car's build date, then you have a 7 speed auto. If you want to find out, jump on the freeway and feel free to shift gears manually. Your instrument cluster will indicate your gear.

Why does replacing the Bose gear with aftermarket sound components make you sad? You should be happy! I know I am after the hard work I put into mine.

Ah, so a more race-looking beast. Nice. Definitely better off importing. Always best to take out the middleman. At least you can be sure that you'll have very few (if any) surprises because you've got all the detail on the vehicle beforehand. Not to mention the money you'll save in the process too. I just like being in as much control of the situation as possible.

No need. He has his connections all over the country. All my dealings with him were from Sydney. He helped out every step of the way from the buyer, to the sea freighter to the customs brokers to the compliance workshop. As the '09 models weren't being handled by anyone trustworthy in Sydney at the time, we had the vehicle shipped to Brisbane where Bruce Gearing did his magic and then he made sure my vehicle safely made it onto the truck I organised through CEVA Transport. There really is no need to be local to Geoff to receive the same level of service.

I got mine through Prestige Motorsport. I can't recommend Geoff's services enough.

Sorry mate. First the photos here, then we talk.

Got photos? Any gutter rash on them?

Grab a multimeter and check there is power getting to the motor before going to the expense of buying a replacement.

Granny driving is not my style. According to my fuel logs (that I keep in a nice little app on my phone), best I've managed so far is 9km/L (or 11L/100km) with my average trend sitting on 6.5km/L (or 15L/100km). We'll see how it goes when I hit the open road again for a nice long trip.

Nice try there. I wonder if everyone really knows that there's a little arrow on the fuel gauge which actually points to which side the filler neck is on?

You're telling me! I think I'm happy with the Japanese flavour, especially after all the effort I went to with my part of the electronics.

No offence but it has been discussed already in this thread as well as the Software thread.

I see this from both perspectives. If I were looking for a scan tool as a business requirement, it'd be the Launch for me too. But since I'm only interested in servicing my own vehicles, I've found the Chinese clone of the Nissan Consult III+ along with the Nissan software is the only way to be sure I've got the most thorough tool for the job. Call me confident but I even bought it before I got the car.

OEM, I found nothing of the sort in mine so my alarm takes care of that for me instead, set to lock upon ignition.

That's a nice satin white. Very classy.

Sorry for resurrecting a thread that died 2 years ago but I figured I'd chime in after having finally done my headlights today. The brass clip holds the wire clip onto the bulb fixture and is affixed with that one coarse thread screw at the top of the bulb fixture. This, in turn, give you a hinge for the clip so that you don't lose it whenever you need to change the bulb. The brass clip has the two leaves pointed back towards the rear of the vehicle, as they don't have sufficient separation to sit over the notch/locator that the bulb slots onto. The one thing you'll need to be careful of is the clip hasn't been bent from its factory setting. The top end of my clips was bent forward somewhat and that resulted in the connector not having any room to twist and lock due to the protruding wire clip up top. Straightening the top end of the clip by a few millimetres before affixing it in place with the brass clip does the trick. Once all that is assembled, you slot the bulb in, swing the clip over and clip it into place. Then you can plug in the connector onto the bulb and twist it to lock in place. For what it's worth, I ripped out the additional wire the compliance shop wired in through the hole that he drilled and reterminated the ballast's 12VDC connector onto that as the factory wire was shortened from the work performed by the compliance shop. It's important to make sure you reseal any holes of that nature with silicone sealant so that no moisture gets into the housing, otherwise your electronics won't survive for as long as they should. Sorry I didn't take any photos but I was in a rush to just get it done. If anyone has any questions, you're welcome to ask. As a key reference, use this YouTube video ( ) which explains it better than even the Nico Club forums, who suggest removing the screw after unlocking the HID bulb's connector - that's simply unnecessary and causes more grief than it's worth.

Not for $270,000.

Wow, 280km to empty is even lower economy than what I get when I drive mine very aggressively. My worst consumption has been close to 19.3L/100km and that was definitely thrashing it about. Typical city driving for me is 15.9L/100km and open road being 10.4L/100km. As for tank capacities, I've always been under the impression that mine was a 70L tank.

"Pedal", not "peddle".

Don't forget EBC.

I often work overseas for 5 months at a time. Essentially, I don't bother with servicing my vehicles before I leave. I save it for after I get back, provided I haven't exceeded the required kms before service. Otherwise, if I expect to continue to drive the vehicle for anything less than 500km, I just treat the engine nicely rather than accelerate its balls off as I usually do and then worry about the servicing after the long absence. It resulted in a well looked after engine in the old Max Sr and it certainly hasn't upset Max Jr in any way. That said, I still get paranoid after the long absences and squirt a bit of oil down the spark plug chambers before kicking the engine over after the change of fluids, just for that extra little bit of love. Many say its overkill, I just call it love.

Given they are essentially the same as the G37 being brought in by Nissan Australia, I'd say there shouldn't be any need to draw parallels with the 370Z any longer as the dealerships (those who will touch a grey import) will be trained to know these vehicles as well, I would think. Get your friend to do the homework and if he isn't confident in servicing the vehicle himself or he can't find anyone reliable in his country town, then tell him to either take the risk or find something else. Otherwise, as already mentioned, any idiot can drop the oil, replace the filter and spark plugs where necessary - once you show them. Be sure he stocks up on copper crush washers for the oil sump drain plug as it's wise to replace that washer with every service.