The Max

Interesting perspective but we'll have to agree to disagree.

Who's getting 180kW? I'm getting 200kW on mine as opposed to KeyGT's 220kW.

We obviously view this from different perspectives. Your perspective doesn't apply to me because I have made a few contributions without seeking reward. My perspective, on the other hand, is the world has become lazy and nobody wants to make any academic effort. The arguments put forward weren't a waste at all and are indeed constructive. I can't just leave it. I'd like to think that I can convince at least one person in this world to better themselves so that maybe that growing problem of lacking initiative will fade away instead. These forums exist to distribute knowledge and information. That information is in this thread. All that's left is to read it, not repeat it.

That's 20kW more than I get with my 2009 model so I wouldn't think those numbers are too high at all, despite it being the same engine and all.

True.

That's pretty average. So one remote for starting the vehicle remotely and another for actually starting the vehicle whilst occupied? Seems a bit silly of them not to combine the functionality in the remote starter keyfob. But then again, I have my smart key and Viper alarm remote on my keyring so I guess it's the same thing.

If you don't mind the drive to Marrickville, I can't speak highly enough of the Tunehouse guys. Jim runs a tight ship and I met him at a MoTeC training seminar back in 2003. A very knowledgable guy who constantly strives to learn as technology progresses. See my thread posted earlier about the results I got from their dyno tune on mine: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451709-ecutek-flash-tune-dyno-results/

I'm with the other guys on this. There's so much information already out on the internet for these vehicles and you can download entire workshop manuals for free from the US forums which are at least 98% accurate for our vehicles. Where I encountered some minor differences was in the electrical wiring, namely the AV system when I was doing my homework before embarking on my stereo modifications but they were minor considering the pinouts for every connector I worked on were still identical.

I had no idea how old that message was until after I replied. Sorry for the resurrection of a dead thread!

Elf, it's not an attack. It's encouraging people to try and fend for themselves. As I said before, nobody is that busy that they can't wade through 57 pages. You'd spend more time on other things in your day to day life. If any of this information needed updating, people would provide those updates, as has been witnessed several times in this thread already, so that's no excuse to ask someone else to do your homework for you. You might be happy to spare him the hassle and repeat everything in some kind of summary but if you consider several people happily answering the same questions over and over again, we would have a lot more than just 57 pages and that makes the root of the problem even worse. Real friends in need don't come to you unless they've exhausted all other options so as not to be a constant burden on their friends.

Nobby, we don't know each other, not that it's at all relevant. We're all busy here, in our own way - perhaps some more so than others. Regardless, we've all taken the time to do the same homework that you should be doing and we've even contributed back to the forum in return. Besides which, asking someone else to do your homework for you is not only lazy but just plain rude. I think it's fair to say that Chris has better things to do with his time than to spoonfeed someone who finds clicking and scrolling through these pages to be beneath them. It shows what high regard you have for others who made the effort. We are here to help but we are not each other's servant.

Don't be lazy and make the time. It's not the equivalent of reading a whole textbook and yet people do still read a book every now and then. Nobody is that busy.

That's what I figured too but all my wiring is intact.

MyPlates.com.au for those of us in NSW.

Really? I must have a freak unit then because I can play all regions and it continues to operate even while driving. I have checked the wiring while I was upgrading my sound system and there weren't any signs of any modification - at least, not externally. I still haven't pulled my finger out and tried my Mirrorlink device via the AV inputs to see if I can mirror my phone's screen on the in-vehicle LCD but after experimenting with it on my TV, it looks passable and I think I might get away with it after all in the car. I'll give it a crack tomorrow and see if it works or not.

I replaced my plates with a set of Japanese sized plates. Problem solved.

Gays are pretty good at head units.

I just raise mine from the passenger's side with the scissor jack after running the engine with a flush additive for fifteen minutes around the block.

Another thing to keep in mind would be the steering wheel controls as some of the button functions may not match or not have the same order as the Japanese set up. Just a thought.

I'm impressed, Space-man. How much did you score those bits for? The one thing that I recall from the FSM (and it's purely off memory) is that upon switching the head unit, you need to reprogram the BCM to accept it, which I'm guessing means one needs to use the Consult scan tool to achieve it. I'm not sure if this means that one would need the Immobiliser card to work alongside the scan tool but at any rate, if you do need to get your hands on one and happen to be in Sydney, I'm happy to help you out as I have the Consult 3+ unit. Granted, a Chinese knock-off, but it works every bit the same as the genuine product and I've had to recalibrate my steering angle sensor with it successfully, once upon a time.

They would be at that price. Like Thom, I bought mine through AliBaba.com which was a $1600 knock-off of the Nissan Consult 3+ with a copy of the genuine Nissan software back in 2012. Works exactly the same as the Nissan deal itself as long as you have Windows XP on your laptop - which is what the Consult software was designed to work with.

Those settings are lost when there is no power for a bit, such as changing a battery. To reset your windows, wind them all the way down. Then, with the doors closed of course, wind each one up all the way with the switch held in the full auto position and hold it there for another eight seconds when the window reaches the top.

Tunehouse charged me $1700 for the tune. I have no idea how much of that was the license component.

MyFuelLog Pro app which takes odometer and fuel fill quantity figures. I should note though, that's city driving. I get 7.7km/L when on the open road. Again, spirited driving. I hear EcuTek can do valve timing as well but you wouldn't be missing out that much if you go with the UpRev.

It's spirited driving, not heroic. I don't weave in and out, cutting people off like many wankers do.I don't do ab crunches either (taking off at the lights like a madman and stop accelerating when you reach 60km/h). I've called one of my buddies a retard for constantly doing that in his Magna back in the day. Stupid, wasteful and just uncomfortable when you're a passenger.